Installing slate on a vertical surface

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Author Message   E Baker Posted on Monday, March 20, 2006 - 11:50 am:        i am an architect interested in installing slate shingles as a vertical serface on an existing building. we have planned for 12x18 shingles with a 2" headlap leaving 8x12 as the exposed shingle size. i have been reading entries and comments on this site because i read the old "slate roofs" booklet that calls for plastic cement. it seems that this is not the preferred method of attaching shingles that will have exposed nails otherwise. in a verticle application, how do you recommend installing the uppermost shingles without exposed nailholes? or must the holes be exposed and some sort of caulk used? this is about an eight square job. will any other special tools be required other than slater's hammers and a slate cutter? i would also appreciate any other comments regarding installing slate on a verticle surface and managing relatively inexperienced workers.   Anonymous Posted on Monday, March 20, 2006 - 01:15 pm:        I wouldn't install slate if I couldn't have the appropriate headlap to cover the nail heads. Why, would you want to do that?   E Baker Posted on Monday, March 20, 2006 - 02:35 pm:        we have the appropriate headlap called for a vertical serface, however, the uppermost course doesn't allow for covering the nailheads. perhaps we will lap them with metal. i was wondering about other options.   Walter Musson Posted on Monday, March 20, 2006 - 04:13 pm:        A wooden trim strip is the traditional method of covering the nail heads in the uppermost course.   slateworks Posted on Monday, March 20, 2006 - 06:06 pm:        E.Baker-You could use slate hooks for the last row,they are available thru this site- or you could use metal or wood trim as Walter mentioned...Exposed nail heads(copper or stainless) are also acceptable on this type of application..What we have done at times is pre-drill your finish row with a 3/16" masonary bit 1/2" to 1" from top edge and in about 1" from each side, then hold these pcs. in place & drill thru the pre -drilled holes thru the last slate you installed - before you nail slate in place place a dap of caulking under the bottom edge and into the drilled holes to help keep the last row from rattling in the wind and to seal & keep nails from backing out..just something to think about,Good luck.   Anonymous Posted on Tuesday, March 21, 2006 - 12:50 pm:        Install a top copper flashing piece, would be the perfect ending to this project. Fabricate it with a hem (about 1/2" to 5/8") at the bottom to give it strength and to also provide a nice straight edge--not a cut edge.