Post Number: 19
|Posted on Tuesday, June 26, 2012 - 11:23 pm: ||
There's something about punching extra holes in slate that seems unholy...but why not. I'll assume that a course can be moved down slightly to avoid a gap in the sheathing(?)
I've been planning for 18" slates, 3" headlap, and an odd 7-1/2" nail spacing. Knowing exactly where the quarry punches might help. I'll give it some more thought tommorow...my brain is done for the day.
Post Number: 832
|Posted on Monday, June 25, 2012 - 07:41 pm: ||
The other thing to do would be to measure where the nail line would be and set your first 1 x 6 so that it falls in the middle of the board. All things being equal, they should always stay in the middle. Just a thought
Post Number: 691
|Posted on Monday, June 25, 2012 - 05:35 pm: ||
Cedar is longer lasting than pine, but 1x6 boards do leave a small gap every six inches. What size are the slates and what are the spaces between the nail lines? Sometimes we hit the gap with the nails on every course because the slate size and the board size coincide. We have to punch new holes in the slates as we go. But 1" cedar sounds like some nice lumber. 3/4 No. 4 pine will have some large knots and defects that will need cut out. It's either/or. I would not have a problem using either one.
Post Number: 17
|Posted on Friday, June 22, 2012 - 04:23 pm: ||
I'm guessing wider boards reduce the chance of nailing between boards, but are there any other reasons to go wide?
I have the choice between 1"x6"x8', rough, green, local, ungraded white cedar... or cheaper 7/8", dry, #4 grade, pine barn boards, up to 12" wide from the lumber yard.