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Catfeesh (Catfeesh)
Junior Member
Username: Catfeesh

Post Number: 19
Registered: 12-2011
Posted on Tuesday, June 26, 2012 - 11:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

There's something about punching extra holes in slate that seems unholy...but why not. I'll assume that a course can be moved down slightly to avoid a gap in the sheathing(?)
I've been planning for 18" slates, 3" headlap, and an odd 7-1/2" nail spacing. Knowing exactly where the quarry punches might help. I'll give it some more thought tommorow...my brain is done for the day.
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Old_school (Old_school)
Senior Member
Username: Old_school

Post Number: 832
Registered: 01-2009
Posted on Monday, June 25, 2012 - 07:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

The other thing to do would be to measure where the nail line would be and set your first 1 x 6 so that it falls in the middle of the board. All things being equal, they should always stay in the middle. Just a thought
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Joe (Joe)
Moderator
Username: Joe

Post Number: 691
Registered: 07-2006
Posted on Monday, June 25, 2012 - 05:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Cedar is longer lasting than pine, but 1x6 boards do leave a small gap every six inches. What size are the slates and what are the spaces between the nail lines? Sometimes we hit the gap with the nails on every course because the slate size and the board size coincide. We have to punch new holes in the slates as we go. But 1" cedar sounds like some nice lumber. 3/4 No. 4 pine will have some large knots and defects that will need cut out. It's either/or. I would not have a problem using either one.
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Catfeesh (Catfeesh)
Junior Member
Username: Catfeesh

Post Number: 17
Registered: 12-2011
Posted on Friday, June 22, 2012 - 04:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I'm guessing wider boards reduce the chance of nailing between boards, but are there any other reasons to go wide?

I have the choice between 1"x6"x8', rough, green, local, ungraded white cedar... or cheaper 7/8", dry, #4 grade, pine barn boards, up to 12" wide from the lumber yard.

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