| Author | Message | ||
     Scottishslater (Scottishslater) Member Username: Scottishslater Post Number: 27 Registered: 01-2012 |
It looks good | ||
| Lazeyjack (Lazeyjack) Junior Member Username: Lazeyjack Post Number: 19 Registered: 04-2012 |
 It is rough here and there, darned peaks in ply butts, but THANKS to Chris I got it under control, sort of | ||
| Lazeyjack (Lazeyjack) Junior Member Username: Lazeyjack Post Number: 13 Registered: 04-2012 |
thanks men, trying to get the jumper to cover the old coarse is a mission and trying to get the spacing so they finish as you said Chris, evens, yes I had 4 inch headlap up there, had long slates so that is no problem, I did spot that  in the last two days I disassembled it twice, just as well I,m screwing em on as I have short supply If people say"well how you going to replace a broken one" I,ll just (hopefully) use a fine wide metal band saw blade | ||
| Slate_man (Slate_man) Senior Member Username: Slate_man Post Number: 718 Registered: 01-2007 |
If you look in the Slate Roof topics for "Slate Turret Pictures" here is the date 04-06-09 you find some more info on cone shaped roofs. Before and after pictures of two turrets that are 100 plus year old. Hope it helps. | ||
| Chris (Chris) Senior Member Username: Chris Post Number: 140 Registered: 09-2009 |
thanks also, dont forget, on each side of the lower diamond you lose about an inch of lap where the cut line is. scrap copper bibs can be used there, or you can use a slightly longer slate. | ||
| Lazeyjack (Lazeyjack) New member Username: Lazeyjack Post Number: 9 Registered: 04-2012 |
would it beacceptable to do this on the jumper coarse thank you  | ||
| Lazeyjack (Lazeyjack) New member Username: Lazeyjack Post Number: 8 Registered: 04-2012 |
Chris, is that your work? Stunning | ||
| Lazeyjack (Lazeyjack) New member Username: Lazeyjack Post Number: 7 Registered: 04-2012 |
Chris thanks learnt a lot from this wee job, even though I can develope a cone with a push of a button and calculate the new circumference where the jumper begins, it means very lttle if you dont have an exact fit up, so if the gap creeps ,which it invariably does then the slate wont work out, in which case , the one that is an odd size at the end, will be lead, hidden behind some bushes , or something. !["<IMG](http://jenkinsslate.com/messages/clipart/happy.gif" ALT="<IMG SRC=) ">"> I would'nt mind starting on a real house to live in, getting a few Spanish brick layers in, cos I'm running out of time, but it will not be here, too much read tape, not enough choice timber, slate , copper nails, "wot are those" copper sheet, six squillion a tonne and so on. Starting with a big centrepole and swinging a tramel off it with a castored jockey wheel near the walls to support the tramel. Life is too short Love the way slate changes colour with rain  I was tired this day, up down no help, but keeps me fit eh (Message edited by lazeyjack on April 17, 2012) (Message edited by lazeyjack on April 17, 2012) | ||
| Chris (Chris) Senior Member Username: Chris Post Number: 139 Registered: 09-2009 |
o, and you need to have an even amount of courses running around the turret to be able to use the jumper or cheater course. wont work with an odd number. | ||
| Chris (Chris) Senior Member Username: Chris Post Number: 138 Registered: 09-2009 |
here is a close up, you can see the 7.5" scratch mark dont forget, you are measuring to the top of the slate, not where it is shouldered.  | ||
| Chris (Chris) Senior Member Username: Chris Post Number: 137 Registered: 09-2009 |
{{Chris, on that steeple , where he has doubled up and cut the vee top and bottom, if you try to (see) the apex of the vee at top , it looks as though there can be no headlap there? }} lazyjack, it does look like that, doesn't it. it is just an optical illusion. the bottom point of that v slate, is at the 7.5" mark, and the second slate runs up 3" higher than the point all lines were set at the 7.5" mark, these were 18" slates. this turret is quite unique in that we ran 3" headlap the whole way. most are probably only 2" and even 1" | ||
| Scottishslater (Scottishslater) Member Username: Scottishslater Post Number: 23 Registered: 01-2012 |
cuting an angle on the top corners of the slates,Shouldering will help to stop any rocking slates you get or not sitting as nice id you like it takes a bit of patience but just place them on as u go round if its rocking slightly or you think the leading corners will interfere with the course above shoulder it | ||
| Scottishslater (Scottishslater) Member Username: Scottishslater Post Number: 22 Registered: 01-2012 |
yes would mean u started your full size slate a little bit further up as they get smaller as you go up so would have helped your problem.also you would shoulder the top of the slates the top corners this would help a larger slate sit and would help the slate above resting on it your diagram looks correct | ||
| Lazeyjack (Lazeyjack) New member Username: Lazeyjack Post Number: 6 Registered: 04-2012 |
so if I double up, is this what I do,? the larger is 10 inches at bottom, this is just a sketch the position of the covering one is not fixed(headlap)  the pie tapering originally, was how I was advised to do it, can see it was not working half way. Nice site this, thankee all | ||
| Lazeyjack (Lazeyjack) New member Username: Lazeyjack Post Number: 5 Registered: 04-2012 |
Scottish Slater , what is a slate and a half? you mean 1.5 widths? if so there would have been too much rocker and 10 inches is abt all the building can handle from an asthetic point of view. But this was always an experiment for me, I wish I had found this place earlier although I did find some web places Joe and Dave O, Hara from Scotland put up. Thanks | ||
| Lazeyjack (Lazeyjack) New member Username: Lazeyjack Post Number: 4 Registered: 04-2012 |
Chris, on that steeple , where he has doubled up and cut the vee top and bottom, if you try to (see) the apex of the vee at top , it looks as though there can be no headlap there? I am very green, Before Nov last year I,d never laid a brick even, built yachts from metal most my life. My slate is thin tired and so fragile I,m screwing them down with sq.drives Where I am in Au they know nothing and I can buy nothing, there would be not one slate roof withing 1500 miles So appreciate any advice | ||
| Scottishslater (Scottishslater) Member Username: Scottishslater Post Number: 21 Registered: 01-2012 |
you could have also started with a slate and a half this would allow you to get further up you may get 3 course on with slate and a half before you even have to start using your full slate may even eliminate the jumper course | ||
| Lazeyjack (Lazeyjack) New member Username: Lazeyjack Post Number: 3 Registered: 04-2012 |
thanks Joe and Chris, I thought I would have do make the next coarse 3 times the width of top of my seventh I,ll study that now may do a dwg for comment Stuart | ||
| Chris (Chris) Senior Member Username: Chris Post Number: 136 Registered: 09-2009 |
http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.164682486961279.35253.164603320302529&type=3  | ||
| Chris (Chris) Senior Member Username: Chris Post Number: 135 Registered: 09-2009 |
if you get too small too quick you can jump it with a double course. (Message edited by chris on April 16, 2012) | ||
| Joe (Joe) Moderator Username: Joe Post Number: 678 Registered: 07-2006 |
Have you looked at the bell-shaped dome roof on the SRCA home page? There is a video there that show how to install bib flashings on the upper part of the dome. http://youtu.be/P3R0AiwD9ZE | ||
| Lazeyjack (Lazeyjack) New member Username: Lazeyjack Post Number: 2 Registered: 04-2012 |
I bought this very cheap cutter ebay, good for up to quarter inch I designed a cutter that has two half moons , like a cutter mirrored, so that you can mount it on a bench and sit either side, dwg for this is free, you help me I help you sort of thing here is the link to this 15 dollar cutter http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w9TcW2m2tpM&context=C4157a8dADvjVQa1PpcFOXWJ15sOb vdhNJTKI7Nf-OWgETJEGjfYA= | ||
| Lazeyjack (Lazeyjack) New member Username: Lazeyjack Post Number: 1 Registered: 04-2012 |
Men/ Ms Was short my traditional work, so decided to build a small round house in my garden Double brick filled with concrete. Top plate laminated 17mm ply two layers I used a 16mm dia rope as a cant, which stops the insects getting in and will never rot as it is synthetic Deck 12mm ply I had to soak it in pool to get it around as the R was 1900mm at bottom of cone I then painted the deck with an undercoat and a barrier coat twice. the pitch is 49 degrees reasonably steep but even so I used 2 1/2 to 4 inch headlap. Because the slates were 12 1/4 inch , wide I started that wide. Big error as A they rocked and B they overpowered to wee house I recut the first 5 coarses starting with 10inches. My question is this , when they get about 6 corses from the cap which is lead covered ply, the head width is only 3 1/2 inch then of corse getting narrower. so eventually side lap is tiny What stops them then leaking , or should I at great expense bring the lead down, which would not look so swish  |
