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Message |
   
Old_school (Old_school)
Senior Member Username: Old_school
Post Number: 778 Registered: 01-2009
| Posted on Wednesday, January 25, 2012 - 07:07 pm: |
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That works! |
   
Catfeesh (Catfeesh)
Junior Member Username: Catfeesh
Post Number: 12 Registered: 12-2011
| Posted on Wednesday, January 25, 2012 - 03:58 pm: |
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If I make the flashing wider, slate (A) would need to be nailed through the flashing...which should be alright depending on the position of the nail(?) It's an option. Attached is the original concept with the revisions as suggested. Thanks for the advice, my 100 yr roof would probably be a 10 day roof without your guys' help. |
   
Old_school (Old_school)
Senior Member Username: Old_school
Post Number: 777 Registered: 01-2009
| Posted on Tuesday, January 24, 2012 - 10:54 pm: |
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Could not hurt. If you do that, hem the two vertical edges as Liam suggested. Fold them all the way down instead of leaving them vertical and it will do the same thing. It stops the water from flowing horizontally and it will run vertically down onto the slate below. |
   
Catfeesh (Catfeesh)
Junior Member Username: Catfeesh
Post Number: 11 Registered: 12-2011
| Posted on Tuesday, January 24, 2012 - 06:45 pm: |
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Thanks for the tips. Hiding the flashing with a couple of shaped slates would definitely look better. Was just thinking..., unless the thickness of the flashing causes the slates to sit weird, I could widen it by 10" or so, which would add a lot of security without resorting to adhesives. |
   
Old_school (Old_school)
Senior Member Username: Old_school
Post Number: 775 Registered: 01-2009
| Posted on Tuesday, January 24, 2012 - 06:14 pm: |
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One other thing, Do not cut the slate tight to the pipe! Leave about 1/2 inch clearance all around the pipe. If you restrict the water at all, it will fight you and track sideways. If it is easier for the water to run off the flashing and slates than to run under it will never leak. Good illustration |
   
Slate_man (Slate_man)
Senior Member Username: Slate_man
Post Number: 699 Registered: 01-2007
| Posted on Tuesday, January 24, 2012 - 11:17 am: |
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It looks good and I don't think you will have a problem. If I where you the course between A and B should over lap the flashing too. Then if you are still concerned you can run a bead of adhesive under the slate or around the flashing or both. You could even bend up the flashing at a 90 depending on the slate thickness rigth where the head lap is. |
   
Catfeesh (Catfeesh)
New member Username: Catfeesh
Post Number: 10 Registered: 12-2011
| Posted on Tuesday, January 24, 2012 - 10:58 am: |
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I need to get someones opinion on my chimney pipe flashing plan. Details: 12:12 roof pitch 10"x18" slate 3" headlap 7 1/2" exposure 20" wide x 25.5" long chimney flashing Attached is a rough drawing, to scale. Water traveling around the chimney can get under slate A. If it travels sideways enough, it could get above/behind slate B (the top of which is (C). It looks like water would have to travel sideways 5+" at 45° or steeper to cause a leak. Am I doing things all wrong, or how does this look? Thanks for your help!
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