| Author | Message | ||
     Lmroc (Lmroc) Member Username: Lmroc Post Number: 26 Registered: 06-2011 |
OK. Not sure I follow all of that. I set my starter course then went up the ridge about half way. Then I set a horizontal line for 10-12" went near the top of the ridge and set a second horizontal line across the deck. Placed Two Vertical lines again, making sure I had a very level vertical line. THis created a square box for me and I then marked off my exposures.....for me using 18" long slates this was 7.5" Iayed the remaining stones going up the ridge but it did not work out because I had forgotten to place the ridge board in. Instead of tearing everything out I just adjusted each coarse to look as close to 7.5 as I could. Wife and neighbors think it looks even. I have some courses layed with 7" and one layed at close to "8 but with random widths and three dormers it looks ok. | ||
| Old_school (Old_school) Senior Member Username: Old_school Post Number: 692 Registered: 01-2009 |
Natural as breathing! | ||
| Tinner666 (Tinner666) Senior Member Username: Tinner666 Post Number: 79 Registered: 02-2009 |
Thanks for the post OS. I do some of these things as naturally as breathing, but when asked, I haven't a clue how to explain what I do, or how I breathe. I do know a diaphram is involved with one or the other. Slate Roof Repairs, Richmond, Va. | ||
| Old_school (Old_school) Senior Member Username: Old_school Post Number: 691 Registered: 01-2009 |
Lmroc, FYI When he says "turn" the rule, he is talking about stretching a tape measure at a slight angle from the bottom line to the top line, and then marking the increments. In other words, if the measurement from the top line to the bottom line is 119 inches and you are marking 6 inch increments it would be slightly less than 6 inches per course. If you just slide the tape sideways a bit until it hits the line at `120 inches and then mark the 6 inch lines at that angle, the courses will be exactly proportional to each other and you will have made those measurements of 5 and 29/32" without using a calculator. I hope that makes sense. | ||
| Tinner666 (Tinner666) Senior Member Username: Tinner666 Post Number: 76 Registered: 02-2009 |
That's our fault. Sorry. None of us paid attention, until this post, that you laid your rule straight up the roof to mark your lines. Our collective bad. It's second nature, like breathing, to mark lines for the starter and first courses, THEN, marking the exact measurement we want down from the APEX of the ridge. We pop a line there from gable to gable. THEN, we 'turn the rule' for the rest of our lines. For example; If the exposures are 6", we'd set the tape on the line for the first course at the bottm, THEN, we'd 'turn the rule', ( angle the tape measure), and make sure the tape hit the line we marked at the ridge EXACTLY on a 6" or 12" mark. We do this as naturally as breathing and sometimes forget to impart these little tidbits of wisdom. Slate Roof Repairs, Richmond, Va. | ||
| Lmroc (Lmroc) Member Username: Lmroc Post Number: 23 Registered: 06-2011 |
Uh...spoke too soon...classic! I had to cut the second to last course two inches off the top then cut the last slate from 18" down to 10" Damn Slate Gods! | ||
| Old_school (Old_school) Senior Member Username: Old_school Post Number: 689 Registered: 01-2009 |
Isn't it great when it works out? We were just lucky I suppose. I have been lucky on the last 100 jobs though. It is all details! | ||
| Lmroc (Lmroc) Junior Member Username: Lmroc Post Number: 19 Registered: 06-2011 |
Agan, thanks for the info....spent this morning looking through old posts. My Ridge slates are 8" X 16 and I have the second course ending just about 4.5" from the top. Then with a 1X4 installed, this should give me an inch to nail the final course up to the 1 X 4 not needing to be tight up against it and will give me a full inch for nailing the final course before the caps. Then the caps will give me my headlap with room to spare.......in theory. Funny how the size of slate Joe Jenkins suggested to me way back when ended up at my ridge at exactly the perfect location for what you both have presented. All Hail the Slate Gods! | ||
| Tinner666 (Tinner666) Senior Member Username: Tinner666 Post Number: 72 Registered: 02-2009 |
You know, we've even cut one board down by 3/4" to run the uncut one over the ridge and the cut board butted to the full board. This was done so we didn't have to go up too a real large size slate for the ridge. Slate Roof Repairs, Richmond, Va. | ||
| Tinner666 (Tinner666) Senior Member Username: Tinner666 Post Number: 71 Registered: 02-2009 |
You're right OS. I was thinking about butting a wall. I'll use two nails vertically there. What was I thinking?? An inch, or even two below the strip is correct. Just be sure the cap slates and the soakers are the right size to ensure 3" headlap there. Slate Roof Repairs, Richmond, Va. | ||
| Lmroc (Lmroc) Junior Member Username: Lmroc Post Number: 18 Registered: 06-2011 |
Thank you Old Schoo, Tinnerl. I was thinking of picking up some 1 X 4 ceder to deter any bugs from making a meal of the wood. An inch of slate material is enough to hold the last course up on the seep slope.? I am guessing you would want to mark the 1 X 4 so that the hold down nail for the 1 X 4 does not show up in the way of the even spacing of the ridge cap slate nails. Again, thank you! | ||
| Old_school (Old_school) Senior Member Username: Old_school Post Number: 687 Registered: 01-2009 |
Normally the last full course will be about an inch from the bottom of the 1 x ridge board. Cut the next row so that it butts to the ridge board and and nail it on with the nails just below the ridge board. The ridges should cover the whole thing including headlap. After that,I nail the ridges into the ridge board. If the ridge board is about twice the thickness of the slates, you will find that the top of the last course you installed will be even with the top of the ridgeboard and it will be easy to flash the ridges and install them. Don;t forget the 5 gallons of plastic cement... Just kidding! | ||
| Lmroc (Lmroc) Junior Member Username: Lmroc Post Number: 17 Registered: 06-2011 |
So where do you drill the holes for the final course slate? Do you cut them so it has the correct exposure and then drill through the same holes as the course underneath it? That is what my coffee is telling me to do. | ||
| Lmroc (Lmroc) Junior Member Username: Lmroc Post Number: 16 Registered: 06-2011 |
Hit the 1 X 4 as in but up againts it but not laying on top of it. Then you bring a full 18 Length slate up and mark it (or Just measure it without the slate) for a correct exposure. Mine would be 7.5" exposure. This slate then nails to the 1 X 4? or does it nail into the second to the last slate? Sorry....this is probably just real simple and I am tired or haven't consumed enough wine. | ||
| Old_school (Old_school) Senior Member Username: Old_school Post Number: 685 Registered: 01-2009 |
Tinner is right on with this one. We have ways of making that carrying easier. I use a forklift and scaffold to set it on. Others have young legs to carry the slate. Both beat the heck out of carrying it up the ladder yourself. Hey Tinner, good to see you on this forum. | ||
| Tinner666 (Tinner666) Senior Member Username: Tinner666 Post Number: 70 Registered: 02-2009 |
Oh. Two layers of 3/8" slate hitting the strip is 3/4" Since slates themselves vary, slight differences in their thicknesses isn't going to be noticeable with a 3/4" board. I have run them through a planer a couple of times when there was an issue. I try a board and two layers of slate on a table to see what it looks like. (Message edited by tinner666 on August 16, 2011) Slate Roof Repairs, Richmond, Va. | ||
| Tinner666 (Tinner666) Senior Member Username: Tinner666 Post Number: 69 Registered: 02-2009 |
I like for my last full slate to hit the 1x4. Cut the next course so the exposure is correct and it hits the strip. Since the apex of the ridge is a point above the strip, that's at least 4 to 4-1/2" before getting a headlap on the last course. I like a minimum of 8" wide for my caps. Slate Roof Repairs, Richmond, Va. | ||
| Lmroc (Lmroc) Junior Member Username: Lmroc Post Number: 14 Registered: 06-2011 |
Sorry for not including the slates are 80% 1/4 and 20% 3/8"-1/2" I understand the need for a wood strip at the ridge but should it be 4" wide and 1/4" thick or larger so it's easy to nail into? any help would be great. I also am a little perplexed on how you join the last two coursed so they are water tight. | ||
| Lmroc (Lmroc) Junior Member Username: Lmroc Post Number: 13 Registered: 06-2011 |
OK. I have the Bible and watched the video on a wood strip at the ridge but how do you lay the final two courses so that your ridge slate covers the course below with the correct overlap? I have 18 X Random width and the ridge slates are 8" X 16. Where in the bible does it show you how to cut the final course?....Excuse me if this is sitting out right in front me....I have been hoisting slate for 4 days straight and have not gotten my slate legs yet.....damn I am tired. Thanks all! |
