| Author | Message | ||
     Virginian (Virginian) New member Username: Virginian Post Number: 4 Registered: 05-2011 |
another quick question what is the best pipe collar? Im inclined to think lead but would appreciate feed back | ||
| Virginian (Virginian) New member Username: Virginian Post Number: 3 Registered: 05-2011 |
Well I have a question? I found this message board after reading the opinions regarding ice and water shield in periodicals and wanted to look into it more. Inspite of suggestions and opinions from very much more educated, experienced, and learned men than me on the subject of slate roofs, I decided to install I/ws on the low slope and 3 foot up the roof at the transition, after reading posts on the message board I decided it could not cause any harm, and I would rather have it and not need it, than need it and not have it, however the only point I read that had any value to support not using it was from Mr. Jenkins is that it may conceal a leak just temporarily enough that it would not manifest to where it can be found and properly repaired. (not ver batum) originally, I had in mind to I/ws the whole roof under 30# felt but after reading this message board and the websites found here i decided not to, however decided to on just the low slope. Since it is or has been so controversial, I figured I would comment not that it means anything. Question is have I missed something or does the presence of ice and water shield under a properly felted and slated roof create performance issue in any way? | ||
| Virginian (Virginian) New member Username: Virginian Post Number: 2 Registered: 05-2011 |
Thanks, for all the suggestions and feedback, We have begun taking up the slate and have half of the roof dryed in with 30 pound felt and have installed ice and water shield on the low slope, after making a closer look at things I have found out that the back of the A roof is the original slate job from when the house was built and the front of the roof along with the low slope roof have been relayed within the last say 10 - 12 years (estimate based on the discovery of ice and water shield on top of the original felt with more felt over it) Interestingly the original roof was layed using a 3.5" exposure and a 3" headlap, besides the back, there is evidence of this on the slate in the front roof as the slates have a "stain" on each of them showing 3.5" exposure instead of the 4" exposure that is there (was there). also the starter strip on the front was not bottom up and there was no cant strip, haveing said all that it is obvious that a jack leg re layed the front, and because of all the above reasons that is why I have decided to take up the roof and re lay. | ||
| Olde_mohawk_masonry__historic_restoration (Olde_mohawk_masonry__historic_restoration) Senior Member Username: Olde_mohawk_masonry__historic_restoration Post Number: 160 Registered: 04-2007 |
Unless I'm missing something, you have one leak ... the flashing where the 10:12 roof transitions into the 4:12. Would it be more prudent to replace that flashing (or install one, if none exists) and repair the broken slate? Don't get hung up on the headlap issue. We run into roofs in Boston all the time with small Monson slates and 1/2" - 2" headlaps. Like your roof, they aren't the cause of the leaks either ... its the flashings. | ||
| Joe (Joe) Moderator Username: Joe Post Number: 615 Registered: 07-2006 |
You'll have to lay the 10" slate with a 3" exposure to get a 4" headlap. Maybe use a bigger slate and get a better headlap. | ||
| Chris (Chris) Senior Member Username: Chris Post Number: 101 Registered: 09-2009 |
{ in the house (visible). The slates are of a smaller size 6 by 10} wow, that is small L-H/2=E.......so your math is right. not sure where the holes were punched, that might be a hangup for you. i would want to use 5" headlap for that 4 12 pitch alot of work with 10's......will look funny with 2.5 E, i think | ||
| Old_school (Old_school) Senior Member Username: Old_school Post Number: 638 Registered: 01-2009 |
Those are mighty small slates, and it is going to take you forever to do that. 680 slates per square, and twice that many nails. The copper nails are going to cost as much as the slate! If you are looking for the Lord to send you patience, this job has all the earmarks of a "real" teaching experience. You can install the slates on the lower slope roof, but it may be better to install a copper roof on that area. Are the slates shot? Have you considered laying new slates of a larger size? Any pictures? Outside of the "stretcher", the only option for a larger headlap is to use longer slates. I say that, but I guess you could re-lay them and shorten up the exposure, but that will be almost akin to seperating fly shat from pepper after a while. JMHO | ||
| Virginian (Virginian) New member Username: Virginian Post Number: 1 Registered: 05-2011 |
Hi all, what a wealth of information, I have an existing slate roof on a home in which I own located in Richmond, VA. Roof is an A roof with a low sloping two story shed roof coming off the front slope supported by large columns. At the transition there is a slow leak not enough to wet the floor, however has damaged plaster ceiling. The A roof is 10 and 12, the low slope 4 and 12. The transition is 40 foot long and in spite of broken slates all over the roof is the only leak manifested in the house (visible). The slates are of a smaller size 6 by 10. and currently have a 4" exposure, even on the low slope. having said all that I have decided to replace the roof (my self) and an experienced roofing crew, with some slate experience but I wouldnt call them slaters, however the lead man was aware of the cant, headlap, and correct starter procedure according to this site. according to my calculations with a 3" headlap the 6 by 10 slates should only have a 3.5" exposure rather than the 4" exposure that they currently have. how can I re lay the existing slate and get a 4 or 5 inch headlap and still maintain a 4" exposure. Buy a slate stretcher lol. any suggestions |
