Author |
Message |
   
Slate_man (Slate_man)
Senior Member Username: Slate_man
Post Number: 445 Registered: 01-2007
| Posted on Wednesday, July 29, 2009 - 06:38 am: |
|
These type of roofs can be done more then one way. Joes roof picture post is done the typical way, the only that looks like migth change in the size of the slate and courses. The smaller the slate the better they will lay in the convex and concave curvse. Jthomas yours, one is smaller and it would be easier to install that type of slate roofing on that smaller turret. Then they did the same on that other one. OTHER WAYS OF DOING THAT IN TO HAVE HIDE COPPER FLASHING UNDER EACH COURSE |
   
Old_school (Old_school)
Senior Member Username: Old_school
Post Number: 193 Registered: 01-2009
| Posted on Monday, July 27, 2009 - 09:43 pm: |
|
JThomas, In last years Traditional roofing I wrote about how to do a cone shaped roof. The onion shaped roofs would be similiar, but you would also have to build the curved portion into the jig. If it is really curved, the only easy (sic) way to do it is with a side dutch lap like what you saw in Sarasota. They only have a slight top lap and that allows you to nail the next row on without the problem of the top head lap holding up the row above. If you read some of the stuff by Liam on this forum, I would listen to him. He is really an artist and has managed to copy some of the German techniques of slating. Very impressive! |
   
Joe (Joe)
Senior Member Username: Joe
Post Number: 416 Registered: 07-2006
| Posted on Monday, July 27, 2009 - 07:06 pm: |
|
Here's a local tower that was slated in the conventional style:
 |
   
Jthomas (Jthomas)
New member Username: Jthomas
Post Number: 1 Registered: 07-2009
| Posted on Monday, July 27, 2009 - 04:49 pm: |
|
The comment on the domed roof says that it can be slated but exactly how? There seems to be a fundamental problem with using slate on a convex shape in that it cannot lap without sticking up off the roof. I was recently in Saratoga Springs where I saw two Victorian bell-roofed towers that both employeed an odd side-lap detail on the convex sloped portion. I thought this may simply be a Victorian embellishment but I also thought it may be a method to solve the problem of roofing a convex shape. I am an Architect and these are the only bell shaped roofs I have ever seen. I need to find out the method for slating this type of roof. The attached photos are from the Saratoga Springs' houses. share.  |
   
NormRice
| Posted on Tuesday, September 25, 2001 - 05:57 pm: |
|
I recently purchased an 1885 Queen Anne home in Garden Grove, IA There is a large tower in the front of the house with a dome. A previous owner put asphalt shingles on this portion of the roof. Can slate be used on a curved surface such as a dome or would a different roofing material likely been used? Thank you Norm Rice |
   
Joe Jenkins
| Posted on Wednesday, September 26, 2001 - 12:03 pm: |
|
Slate can be used. |
   
Monty Jones
| Posted on Saturday, March 23, 2002 - 10:51 pm: |
|
I have a turret which is 14 feet in dia. at the drip edge, pitch is 12/12. Since I have to trim each shingle anyway, what width would be best for the first courses? The flat part of the roof uses 9X11, but I'm afraid that width would tend to break due to the curvature. Thanks, Monty Jones |
   
Tim Dittmar
| Posted on Sunday, March 24, 2002 - 09:12 am: |
|
You're correct to be concerned but more detail could help prompt extra advice(excelling in slating in the round is very challenging). Mainstream practice of slate sizing is apparently a ratio kind of thing- 8" width goes with 12, 14, poss. 16" length- 9" w with 14, 16, maybe 18" L as a general rule(in my experience). When the exposure of your slates is figured, they don't look very shingle-like as installed(too much width)- further, more length will mean fewer courses, fewer slates, less fitting, etc. Length also aids better bedding/lying flat- trimming upper corners as needed will also help them to bed(not "bristle" so much) For best appearance(later on when aging), the turret would benefit most from being slated all with the same "batch" of slate- esp. if you intend a graduated, textured approach(means alot of cutting)- I'd recommend acquiring some 16L x 9W in the same variety as roof to start with and plan on reducing it gradually in size to 10/12L x 5/6W at top(some slates may only have room for one nail if that small/smaller). You may find it good to somewhat taper the vertical edges of your slates, etc. If you've never slated round before- consider that you "should" practice- try various ideas/sizes/techniques before executing the finished product. There's lots more to it- I'm in the NC part of directory. |
|