| Author | Message | ||
     Old_school (Old_school) Senior Member Username: Old_school Post Number: 623 Registered: 01-2009 |
It does not look all that "big, so I would think so. It is easier to install the outlets at the corners, and about 15 to 20 feet in either direction of the outlet works as far as expansion is concerned. A natural expansion joint is where the gutter changes directions, preferably at a high point. Use 4 inch round downspouts too, they will let the debris that is going to build up out without plugging as esaily. | ||
| 1873 (1873) New member Username: 1873 Post Number: 3 Registered: 04-2011 |
ok so you think 4 downspouts on front part of house would be sufficient? I plan on doing one "section" at a time. and just work my way around the house this summer. I know its a big job.. im not in any huge rush. i have a few stacks of slate i got free which are decent i figure i can put back on. I know the slate isn't great but figured it was still better than shingles. The back of house was a 2nd story addition put on ~20 years ago. (the shingles on back of house are less than 20 years old and are pretty well shot in places.) | ||
| Old_school (Old_school) Senior Member Username: Old_school Post Number: 622 Registered: 01-2009 |
Firstly, "box gutters" around here anyway are normally mostly square and they normally hang on the outside of the fascia. What I see here would normally be called "built-in" or Internal gutters. The wood framing and the wood trim pieces go completely around the gutter itself. The best place for the expansion joints is on the high points of the built-in gutter. 3 and 6 would be good high points, and 2,4,6,and 7. low points in the gutter. In between 4 and 5 would also be a high point and the site of a expansion joint. Cap and install expansion joints on the other low points. Will you install the built-ins on the shingle part too? A lot of work to do. | ||
| 1873 (1873) New member Username: 1873 Post Number: 2 Registered: 04-2011 |
i bought the house to live in and slowly work on. i would like to save it. i have pumpjacks, walk planks scaffolding and 12' break already. I just hate to rip of the slate and put asphalt singles and normal gutters..(i can do that.. but ) would ruin the whole look from the street.. many have done this in the small town.. any advise on expansion joint locations would be helpful. currently only has 2 downspout locations.   (Message edited by 1873 on April 27, 2011) | ||
| Olde_mohawk_masonry__historic_restoration (Olde_mohawk_masonry__historic_restoration) Senior Member Username: Olde_mohawk_masonry__historic_restoration Post Number: 153 Registered: 04-2007 |
Whether the built-in gutters are replaced, relined, or covered over, slate's going to have to come off at the eaves where there is slate (I looked at the Flickr album, and the rear "T" appears to have asphalt.) How much of that Pennsylvania slate is going to be lost in the effort? How much of the rolled ridge is going to be lost in the process? It's a foreclosure, I'm assuming this is a business move--am I right? Looks like its in a decent neighborhood, is it worth the investment? From what you've described and the pictures show, its not just metal work. You're going to end up replacing structural framework, fascia/soffit plates, moulding. Built-in gutter replication is a very involved project ... it brings into play carpentry, slate roofing, and sheet metal skill sets. Will you recoup the time and assets expended on this project? | ||
| Old_school (Old_school) Senior Member Username: Old_school Post Number: 617 Registered: 01-2009 |
He could certainly do that, but it looks like the wood is rotted too. No matter how he does it, he is going to have to get up there with a scaffold and re-build it. | ||
| Jimmyjim (Jimmyjim) Senior Member Username: Jimmyjim Post Number: 57 Registered: 08-2009 |
You might want to at least consider forgetting the box gutter altogether and extend the metal from under the slates right to the edge of the house and add gutters. Especially if you don't intend to re-slate your house. That's tin right? Guys-could he just cut a slit and extend a piece of galvanized underneath the tin? Would galvanized react with tin? | ||
| Old_school (Old_school) Senior Member Username: Old_school Post Number: 616 Registered: 01-2009 |
A lot of work to do, | ||
| 1873 (1873) New member Username: 1873 Post Number: 1 Registered: 04-2011 |
recent bought a foreclosure, the house had been ran down. and the box gutters were likely part of the reason it foreclosed. look at the pictures... someone did a very poor job bending galvanized what im guessing was 30+ years ago.. the seams are over lapped with a couple of rivets here or there (corner had 3) and then roofing tar... imagen that.. its been leaking for years... the bank had a roofing company just do a bang up job slapping some rubber over the holes.. and slapped some paint on it.. i climbed up and inspected it prior to purchase and knew how bad it was.. i cut down the huge pine tree which was leaning over house and ruining the roof and filling the gutters with pine needles. pulled down eves to let the water that is leaking at least drip clear of the house to "stop the bleeding" for now I want to rebuild and re-line the gutters with 20oz copper. one of my biggest questions is how many runs should i have with down spouts? as u can see the current setup has NO expansion joints all the way around the house!!! the house is setup like a T with the gutters going around it but not all the way around the back. now i do have and read slate roof bible, have the ripper, cutters hammer, ladder hook.. i have done basic repair on rentals and barns.. i have pretty decent understanding of it. im decent at welding and metal bending so i dont think i should have a problem. URL with rest of pictures http://flic.kr/s/aHsjukcVpM     (Message edited by 1873 on April 22, 2011) |
