INSTALLING A NEW COPPER SNOW APRON

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Author Message   TOM MANERA Posted on Wednesday, March 30, 2005 - 10:55 am:        I HAVE A QUESTION ON HOW MUCH EXPOSURE SHOULD BE LEFT WHEN INSTALLING COPPER SNOW APRONS (AKA PANS OR SLIDES)??? ALSO SHOULD I INSTALL COPPER DRIP EDGE AS WELL?   Spencer P. Posted on Wednesday, March 30, 2005 - 12:53 pm:        Tom, I like snow aprons to have a exposure of 24-36" and yes you should use copper drip edging- for a couple reasons first you should always use the same type of metal for drip edge as you do the snow aprons (we call them ice slides) that way you know the two metals will work, because you can't mix all metals. Next it gives you a 3/4" to 1" lip to lock the bottom edge of the pan to. leave pan hang over edge (if lip is 1" leave over edge 3/4" to avoid binding) enough to lock into pan and bend downward and use hand crimpers to tight crimp to drip edge. Spencer P.   Joe Jenkins Posted on Saturday, April 02, 2005 - 10:17 am:        Look at http://www.jenkinsslate.com/install_snow_aprons.htm for an example.   TOM MANERA Posted on Wednesday, April 06, 2005 - 03:45 pm:        Thanks Spencer & Joe I appreciate it... looks like a fun summer project. Tom   STEVE T. Posted on Wednesday, April 06, 2005 - 10:26 pm:        Joe, What did you do for cant strip and starter slates so you did not nail through the copper?   admin Posted on Thursday, April 07, 2005 - 02:22 pm:        We placed the cant strip immediately above the copper snow apron and nailed it to the roof deck. Then we hung the starter slates and first course down further than usual below the cant strip (4"). The slates were given extra needed support by the standing seams underneath them, which we bent down just enough to clear the underside of the slate. Joe Jenkins   Walter Musson Posted on Friday, April 08, 2005 - 04:53 am:        Steve, Another method I use when installing cant strip under the metal is impractical is to make a copper strip to act as cant. I use a 6" strip of 16 oz. and bend it in a "u" shape at one edge a half inch to fold 90 degrees then your cant thickness folded 90 degrees.This leaves you with a strong metal cant to support your starter slates at the shingle line and the extra metal so that you can nail high enough not to penetrate your pans. Since you'll be just spanning between standing seams you can use up some smaller scrap copper if you have any instead of stripping full sheet down. I like to have good support for the starter and first course,and use starter slates the same width as my field slates.