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Admin (Admin)
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Username: Admin

Post Number: 2
Registered: 07-2006
Posted on Thursday, May 13, 2010 - 10:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

We will put a dab of caulk or roof cement underneath the slates on a chronically damaged windward rake when we repair the roof - a scenario found on a lot of barns. This keeps the slates from rattling loose in heavy winds.

Joseph Jenkins, Inc.
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Hakkarainen (Hakkarainen)
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Username: Hakkarainen

Post Number: 4
Registered: 01-2010
Posted on Sunday, May 09, 2010 - 11:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Interesting insights. Should this potential problem of heavy winds dislodging slate be a good argument for installing tar paper under the slate? You've convinced me to install rake board and facia so it's matched. Should I install the tar paper too? I know Joe said it may be unnecessary, but I can see it might add some wind resistance.
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Joe (Joe)
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Username: Joe

Post Number: 540
Registered: 07-2006
Posted on Sunday, May 09, 2010 - 01:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Exposed end grains on a rake edge is problematic exactly for the reasons stated by Blue Sky - if the boards are bouncy when you nail them, it will be very difficult to install the slates properly.
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Blue_sky_roofing (Blue_sky_roofing)
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Username: Blue_sky_roofing

Post Number: 12
Registered: 05-2010
Posted on Saturday, May 08, 2010 - 01:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

As long as it is somewhat solid so as you're not trying to drive a nail into a 'diving board'. Some barns have an additional sheeting board nailed underneath from face board to ridge. Actually this is pretty good idea as it takes all the wind pressure off the underside of the slate between the spaced sheeting.

I have one barn that I take care of that the 14x20 gr. slate was put on with 1.5 copper cut nails (cut nails are cut in a 'wedge' formation and doesn't take much to pop them loose). The barn sits on a hill with the barn doors facing west (the direction the wind comes from). One night they left the doors open and a wind storm hit; I ended up replacing around 200 slate.
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Hakkarainen (Hakkarainen)
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Username: Hakkarainen

Post Number: 3
Registered: 01-2010
Posted on Saturday, May 08, 2010 - 12:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I do have end grain on the rakes. Do I need to have a rake board. I like the plain look at the gables and the exposed rafter tails.
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Joe (Joe)
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Username: Joe

Post Number: 538
Registered: 07-2006
Posted on Saturday, May 08, 2010 - 02:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

You don't need metal edging on slate roofs. It doesn't hurt anything if it's there and some people like the looks of it. But you can do without it and have an excellent slate roof installation.
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Blue_sky_roofing (Blue_sky_roofing)
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Username: Blue_sky_roofing

Post Number: 11
Registered: 05-2010
Posted on Friday, May 07, 2010 - 05:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

If your barn's rake O/H is just sheeting boards sticking out with the 1x4 rake board nailed into the ends of the sheeting; might I suggest nailing a 2x4 flat ways underneath the sheeting boards and up against the rake board. Nail each sheeting board down to the 2x4 and the rake board to the 2x4 also. This REALLY stiffens up the O/H and makes for good solid nailing (no bounce)
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Old_school (Old_school)
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Username: Old_school

Post Number: 459
Registered: 01-2009
Posted on Friday, May 07, 2010 - 08:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

You read right. The only reason to install a drip edge would be to cover up the end grain on the wood up the rakes if you want to do that. At the eave, you have to hang the slates beyond the bottom anyway and a drip would be extra there too. I have installed it before and put the lath to raise the first row of slate beneath it so there is nothing impeding any water flow beneath the slates, but, it has been done that way for centuries and it works fine. If you follow the book, you will do fine.
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Hakkarainen (Hakkarainen)
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Username: Hakkarainen

Post Number: 2
Registered: 01-2010
Posted on Friday, May 07, 2010 - 02:03 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I'll be installing a recycled slate roof onto my barn. Do I need to use drip edge and gable flashing? I think that I remember reading in Joe's book that such flashing and drip edge were not used on barns.

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