| Author | Message | ||
     Old_school (Old_school) Senior Member Username: Old_school Post Number: 438 Registered: 01-2009 |
You've got it! The old slate looked like the softer Pennsylvania slate and that does get to be a bit flakey when it gets old. It will absorb water and breaks really easy and like you say, it is a dirty mess to take off. The one good thing is that you will have a hard time cutting yourself on it because there are no more sharp corners. | ||
| Jimmyjim (Jimmyjim) Intermediate Member Username: Jimmyjim Post Number: 32 Registered: 08-2009 |
That's great. Thank you both for your help. My slates are salvaged Buckingham 14x20 with no random. I guess the problem with that one slate could be solved by putting the valley flashing on a bit later. I was thinking that had to go on 1st. after felt. I'll just leave out the last slates in each row for the dormer and finish that off when I do the main roof. Kind of like what is shown in the Slate Roof Bible regarding valley replacement. That'd work right? Man what a mess taking off that slate! Just breaking into dust. Thanks again for your help. | ||
| Old_school (Old_school) Senior Member Username: Old_school Post Number: 437 Registered: 01-2009 |
Jimm, If the slates you are using are random widths, you can start at any place you want: middle or either end. The lines you have to chalk will have to be for the coursing and that is determined by the size of the slates you are using. At least you have a concept of a chalkline. Maybe a tape measure too! A lot of the "roofers" out there have never used either. You are ahead of the curve. Good luck! | ||
| Joe (Joe) Moderator Username: Joe Post Number: 532 Registered: 07-2006 |
On hip roofs, you would start in the center. On gable roofs, at the end. I would remove all slates, felt the roof, then start chalking from the bottom. When you get to the dormer, chalk it too. If the valley is open, the courses don't have to line up. | ||
| Old_school (Old_school) Senior Member Username: Old_school Post Number: 436 Registered: 01-2009 |
You have the right idea! If you want to, you could probably leave that slate there and just slate to it. It has never been exposed to any weather and is so far beneath everything that it probably wouldn't show anyway. Just a thought! | ||
| Jimmyjim (Jimmyjim) Intermediate Member Username: Jimmyjim Post Number: 31 Registered: 08-2009 |
Hello. I'm reslating my house for the 1st. time and will be removing and replacing one side at a time. While I was removing I saw a slate that was under the dormer where it meets the deck and this slate is nailed underneath the valley flashing. At 1st. my thinking was that I would remove all slates and start to tarpaper while adding my nailers to the hip and ridge including the dormer. I would then attach a triangular shaped scaffold that will allow me to access the front of the dormer which is hard to get at. I would then add copper flashing to valley with rosin paper underneath, and start slating (finally) the dormer. Then remove the dormer scaffold and start at the bottom of the roof adding my copper to my V shaped built in and then slate up to the ridge. But then there's that slate.......... Am I supposed to figure out where that slate(s) will be and have it (them) in place as my 1st. step by means of a chalkline? (which I intend to do anyway.) Sure hope that makes sense. Just one more question. Does it make sense to start slating at the center point and work out as opposed to starting on the end? Thanks- and below is a link that shows the slate(s) that I'm speaking about. I have a few ideas about how I can make it work, but I want to make sure I start correctly instead of guessing. http://gallery.me.com/jgodish#100088&view=grid&bgcolor=black&sel=0 Jim |
