| Author | Message | ||
     Kwhord (Kwhord) Senior Member Username: Kwhord Post Number: 240 Registered: 10-2006 |
I have noticed a percentage of "cupped" slate with NC black to be maybe 5-10%. Certainly within a reasonable range. And most of these we are able to split down the middle and still use for rakes or valley pieces. Just have to sort/cull everything before it's pulled up on the roof. | ||
| Slate_man (Slate_man) Senior Member Username: Slate_man Post Number: 454 Registered: 01-2007 |
Well I would try and fine out if that slate roof really had NC Black, one reason I say that is you are on the west coast and seem to have a big import of China's slate which is sold some times as other slate. I would want to see pictures of that project and maybe a slate. What quarry dose he use? As far as NC Black quarry I don't know how long they been around but in comparison to VT's quarry's it much younger I would think as far as quarrying. My understanding is alot of there slate goes to England and Germany, which both use quilty materials. I was just on one of the NC black slate roof i installed durning last winter, just yesterday (We were taking done some stageing , we had felt for the mason.) I had no warped or curved pcs, and no missing or broken slate to remove, even after mason where work on them. The only thing i though was odd is a few pcs had a brownish pintia to it. Not the end on the world. | ||
| Marc (Marc) Junior Member Username: Marc Post Number: 15 Registered: 10-2008 |
I'm still looking for a slate roof contractor in my area, and the one I spoke to told me about another job he had that about 40% of the NC slates were slightly curved, so he does not consider that product reliable and favored another slate quarry instead. All I've heard so far is that NC black slate is a very superior product with a long history of wonderful durability. Do you all agree??? | ||
| Slate_man (Slate_man) Senior Member Username: Slate_man Post Number: 452 Registered: 01-2007 |
Well he said some of them came curved, not all. I would say thats more typical then any thing. Slate is a stone and every part is different. Maybe a new guy was spliting and over look these pcs at the quarry. The only reason to worry would be if all the pcs were like that. Also the slate roof should be able to use the curve pcs, some where on the roof if you get some. Like, cut down as starters, last corse on the roof that gets cut, or on and gable end. You could ever use them in the feild depending on the curve and the thickest of pcs of slate on the roof. I would think that if it was really NC Black there was mostly very little. | ||
| Old_school (Old_school) Senior Member Username: Old_school Post Number: 202 Registered: 01-2009 |
Is that what you have? If they are all slightly curved they will have a tendency to break on you, but the roof will have a lot of texture. Depending on how thick they are it could be a lot of trouble. The thicker they are the better they will hold up, but the higher they will be held off the roof. | ||
| Marc (Marc) Junior Member Username: Marc Post Number: 14 Registered: 10-2008 |
Can anyone out there tell me about slates that are supposedly slightly curved or bowed and don't lie flat on the back side. A slate roofing contractor I spoke with said that in his last job with NC black some of the slates came from a slate bed at the end of a seam that curved, so the slates were not flat. I could see that this could be a real problem. Has anyone heard of such a thing?? I think I need a few lessons on what a bad slate is. Am I opening a can of worms here??? | ||
| Old_school (Old_school) Senior Member Username: Old_school Post Number: 200 Registered: 01-2009 |
What Slateman Said again! Just remember that when you are nailing the slates, you will have about an inch of wood to go through and twice the thickness of the slate, because the nail holes are just above the top of the slate beneath it and the slate you are installing will be held up by the thickness of the slate below; ie. 3/8 + 3/8 = 3/4" +1" decking = 1 3/4". On 1/2" thick slates, it would work out to about 2" nails and so on. You are on the right track! | ||
| Slate_man (Slate_man) Senior Member Username: Slate_man Post Number: 449 Registered: 01-2007 |
I migth get a few 1 3/4 but the 1 1/2 should work fine with the 3/8 slate. If you are going with NC Black thick or thin the slate is so nice you will never have to worry about it again. The thickness is going to give it more texture most likely. All NC Black roof I have ever installed, I have very need to do a thing to again. | ||
| Marc (Marc) Junior Member Username: Marc Post Number: 13 Registered: 10-2008 |
Would the nail length change if I chose a 3/8th inch thick slate??? Would it still be a 1 1/2 " nail??? Which thickness slate would you prefer on my 1547sq/ft roof? Does it make much difference??? Would they be less likely to break??? Samples sent to me by North Country were 3/8th inch thick and look very sturdy | ||
| Old_school (Old_school) Senior Member Username: Old_school Post Number: 198 Registered: 01-2009 |
Marc, 3/16 to 1/4' slates are a standard thickness. 1 1/2' nails should work on them. The nail wants to just penetrate the bottom of the roof deck when you set the top even with the slate. Don't overdrive the nail to make it press on the slate, but also, don't leave it up as it will eventually break the slate above it. If you have Joe's Book, all of this is expained very well. You are on the right track, and please don't hesitate to ask us here on the forum. I am sure you will get all kinds of replies! | ||
| Marc (Marc) Junior Member Username: Marc Post Number: 12 Registered: 10-2008 |
Could someone tell me how long of a copper or stainless steel nail I should use on slate that is 3/16th" thick (standard), and also on a slate that is 1/4" thick (quarter) on a roof shiplap deck that is 3/4" thick. I know this is a basic question, but am still learning. Also, which thickness is more desirable? Thanks | ||
| Old_school (Old_school) Senior Member Username: Old_school Post Number: 186 Registered: 01-2009 |
Marc, If the deck is too hard for copper nails, stainless steel will work. Sounds like you can used whatever slate you want. Sounds like fun to me! | ||
| Marc (Marc) New member Username: Marc Post Number: 10 Registered: 10-2008 |
Tim, Since my roof deck is 3/4" shiplap and is more than 50 yrs old, does the wood become super hard or petrified so it might split when fastening slates to it with copper nails??? I don't know how wood reacts when older. My building has had 2 cedar shake roofs in its lifetime. Attic space is well ventilated and I have no leaks so far. Present roof is about 20 to 25 yrs old. Thanks for your thoughts in advance. I will get some pictures posted soon to show all of you what I have. Thanks | ||
| Marc (Marc) New member Username: Marc Post Number: 8 Registered: 10-2008 |
Tim--I have solid 3/4 inch shiplap for my roof deck, and when i remodeled my building in 1992 i had them reinforce the roof structure with additional lumber to bear the weight of a concrete, clay or slate roof. The shiplap is in good condition as several asphalt roofing contractors have told me. | ||
| Tim_dittmar (Tim_dittmar) Advanced Member Username: Tim_dittmar Post Number: 50 Registered: 05-2008 |
Marc- is your roof structure rated for the load of cedar shakes and not strong enough for the greatly increased weight of slates? Older houses often have skimpy roof framing because it was intended to use a lightweight shingle; that includes "risking" 24 inch rafter spacing and an open deck(rather than solid decking). The largest sizes of slates do not adapt well to a "lumpy" roof such as is found in skimpy framing- they do not lie down well and can be subject to accelerated breakage, too, as they are not scaled thicker as well as longer and wider. Don't make a hasty decision- evaluate the strength of your roof structure- inspect it for obvious flaws such as long and sagging rafters that should be a size of lumber bigger than you find them, etc... | ||
| Marc (Marc) New member Username: Marc Post Number: 7 Registered: 10-2008 |
Thank you all for these ideas and suggestions. My clinker brick building is one story and is a dental office that looks exactly like a house. I will do my best to post some current pictures since that would certainly help. I want the most pleasing size for my size building so am still doing a lot of questioning and learning. Also, please suggest possible roofing contractors in my area that could do a proper job. Im in Tacoma WA. and there's not any slate roofs that I've seen here yet. | ||
| Old_school (Old_school) Senior Member Username: Old_school Post Number: 163 Registered: 01-2009 |
I'm with Brammer on this one. I would like to see pictures of course, but on a smaller house I think the smaller slates would look better; beside, what is the fun in getting done too quickly? | ||
| Joe (Joe) Senior Member Username: Joe Post Number: 408 Registered: 07-2006 |
There are (222) 10X16 in a square. (141) 12X20 in a square. Something to consider. | ||
| Braymer (Braymer) Senior Member Username: Braymer Post Number: 119 Registered: 09-2008 |
Need some photos, that would help alot in suggesting color and sizes. Random widths or even grauduated patterns are great, but if budget is important (and if you are self-installing), a common size will limit mistakes and install quicker. If the house is on the small side, the 10x16s are a nice common size for that. | ||
| Kwhord (Kwhord) Senior Member Username: Kwhord Post Number: 237 Registered: 10-2006 |
I'm partial to 18's or 20's but maybe that's just reflective of the style around here on the older places. | ||
| Old_school (Old_school) Senior Member Username: Old_school Post Number: 162 Registered: 01-2009 |
There it is! I would use 16's but use random widths. I think it looks more authentic. A dark black or grey will make it look lower, and a lighter color will enhance the height. I would like to see unfading green and purple | ||
| Old_school (Old_school) Senior Member Username: Old_school Post Number: 161 Registered: 01-2009 |
What is wrong with this posting. I have posted twice and it hasn't shown up yet? | ||
| Walter_musson (Walter_musson) Senior Member Username: Walter_musson Post Number: 161 Registered: 07-2006 |
Kurtis , It's not a large house obviously , probably 2 story . A large slate would like out of scale most likely and small ones eat up a lot of labor to install. Just seems like a good choice without seeing pictures , but it's not cast in stone ! | ||
| Slate_man (Slate_man) Senior Member Username: Slate_man Post Number: 426 Registered: 01-2007 |
I would think that 10 x 16 are pretty common. I would need pictures of the house from all sides before I really could say. There alot you can do with slate. | ||
| Kwhord (Kwhord) Senior Member Username: Kwhord Post Number: 236 Registered: 10-2006 |
Walter, just curios why do you say that? Personal preference? | ||
| Walter_musson (Walter_musson) Senior Member Username: Walter_musson Post Number: 160 Registered: 07-2006 |
10 x 16 | ||
| Marc (Marc) New member Username: Marc Post Number: 6 Registered: 10-2008 |
My roof deck is 1587sq feet. What would be a pleasing slate size for this size roof? Is there a formula to use to determine this? Its a smaller building that is clinker brick (dark purples, black, and gray morter. A color suggestion would also be helpful. I currently have worn out cedar shakes. Please give me your thoughts. |
