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Kwhord (Kwhord)
Senior Member
Username: Kwhord

Post Number: 185
Registered: 10-2006
Posted on Monday, March 23, 2009 - 07:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Drip edge will usually cover the top "vertical" part of the crown. This is good, you wouldn't want the drip edge to sit on top of the crown because it could divert water behind the trim. I have produced drip edge with a cove detail on the part that hangs down to compliment the existing trim. You may consider this.
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Walter_musson (Walter_musson)
Senior Member
Username: Walter_musson

Post Number: 149
Registered: 07-2006
Posted on Sunday, March 22, 2009 - 06:52 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Liam,
This roof was worked on about 25 years ago by someone else. They made 8' long aprons with drip edge on it that joined them like you would with ductwork - using drive cleats. So yes it does have metal on there now , but it will be re-done soon.
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Slate_man (Slate_man)
Senior Member
Username: Slate_man

Post Number: 377
Registered: 01-2007
Posted on Sunday, March 22, 2009 - 06:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Walter isn't that the drip on top of the crown in the picture?
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Walter_musson (Walter_musson)
Senior Member
Username: Walter_musson

Post Number: 148
Registered: 07-2006
Posted on Sunday, March 22, 2009 - 06:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Yes , this roof is going to have an " apron " of standing seam panels of 20 oz. copper. They will be locked onto a drip edge I fabricated that drops down 3/4" and has a hemmed kick of 5/16".
We'll reslate the whole roof above the new SS panels.
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Behrmj (Behrmj)
New member
Username: Behrmj

Post Number: 4
Registered: 11-2008
Posted on Saturday, March 21, 2009 - 10:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

That does look fantastic! Are you using a drip edge with that crown? If so, how far down does the drip edge extend? I presume that when using drip edge with molding, that you don't want it to extend down very far so as not to cover up the molding. Thanks for posting the pic!
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Walter_musson (Walter_musson)
Senior Member
Username: Walter_musson

Post Number: 147
Registered: 07-2006
Posted on Saturday, March 21, 2009 - 06:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Heres a picture of one situationdrip edge
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Walter_musson (Walter_musson)
Senior Member
Username: Walter_musson

Post Number: 143
Registered: 07-2006
Posted on Thursday, March 19, 2009 - 02:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I'll take some pictures tomorrow of an open rafter tailed overhang on a job I'm just starting to set up.
It has a nice smallish crown to cover the two roof boards - 1 sheathing and the matched boards you see when looking up at the overhangs.
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Behrmj (Behrmj)
New member
Username: Behrmj

Post Number: 3
Registered: 11-2008
Posted on Thursday, March 19, 2009 - 01:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

There is no fascia on the ends of the rafter tails. On the dormers, there is a small piece (~1-1.5") of molding (looks like crown molding) attached to the rafter tails, but that is all. I have considered just removing all molding and putting the drip edge over the top, but am not sure that that would look the best. I like the idea of using a small piece of molding attached to the rafter tails with a drip edge over it, but am not sure if this will end up looking ok or what size molding to use-the rafters are standard 2-by-4s and the roof pitch is a 9-12. Thanks for any recommendations on how to make this look historically accurate (American Foursquare built in 1900) and aesthetically pleasing!
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Walter_musson (Walter_musson)
Senior Member
Username: Walter_musson

Post Number: 140
Registered: 07-2006
Posted on Thursday, March 19, 2009 - 12:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Is there any trim boars on the ends of the rafter tails ?
There is no need to rivet and solder drip edge - a simple overlap is fine.
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Behrmj (Behrmj)
New member
Username: Behrmj

Post Number: 2
Registered: 11-2008
Posted on Thursday, March 19, 2009 - 10:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Two questions:
(1) I have exposed rafter tails, but need to use a drip edge. What will be the most aesthetically pleasing configuration with the exposed rafter tails?
(2) Is it best to rivet and solder overlapping pieces of drip edge, or just leave them overlapped in terms of performance, and of course appearance?
Thanks a bunch!

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