| Author | Message | ||
     Kwhord (Kwhord) Senior Member Username: Kwhord Post Number: 185 Registered: 10-2006 |
Drip edge will usually cover the top "vertical" part of the crown. This is good, you wouldn't want the drip edge to sit on top of the crown because it could divert water behind the trim. I have produced drip edge with a cove detail on the part that hangs down to compliment the existing trim. You may consider this. | ||
| Walter_musson (Walter_musson) Senior Member Username: Walter_musson Post Number: 149 Registered: 07-2006 |
Liam, This roof was worked on about 25 years ago by someone else. They made 8' long aprons with drip edge on it that joined them like you would with ductwork - using drive cleats. So yes it does have metal on there now , but it will be re-done soon. | ||
| Slate_man (Slate_man) Senior Member Username: Slate_man Post Number: 377 Registered: 01-2007 |
Walter isn't that the drip on top of the crown in the picture? | ||
| Walter_musson (Walter_musson) Senior Member Username: Walter_musson Post Number: 148 Registered: 07-2006 |
Yes , this roof is going to have an " apron " of standing seam panels of 20 oz. copper. They will be locked onto a drip edge I fabricated that drops down 3/4" and has a hemmed kick of 5/16". We'll reslate the whole roof above the new SS panels. | ||
| Behrmj (Behrmj) New member Username: Behrmj Post Number: 4 Registered: 11-2008 |
That does look fantastic! Are you using a drip edge with that crown? If so, how far down does the drip edge extend? I presume that when using drip edge with molding, that you don't want it to extend down very far so as not to cover up the molding. Thanks for posting the pic! | ||
| Walter_musson (Walter_musson) Senior Member Username: Walter_musson Post Number: 147 Registered: 07-2006 |
Heres a picture of one situation  | ||
| Walter_musson (Walter_musson) Senior Member Username: Walter_musson Post Number: 143 Registered: 07-2006 |
I'll take some pictures tomorrow of an open rafter tailed overhang on a job I'm just starting to set up. It has a nice smallish crown to cover the two roof boards - 1 sheathing and the matched boards you see when looking up at the overhangs. | ||
| Behrmj (Behrmj) New member Username: Behrmj Post Number: 3 Registered: 11-2008 |
There is no fascia on the ends of the rafter tails. On the dormers, there is a small piece (~1-1.5") of molding (looks like crown molding) attached to the rafter tails, but that is all. I have considered just removing all molding and putting the drip edge over the top, but am not sure that that would look the best. I like the idea of using a small piece of molding attached to the rafter tails with a drip edge over it, but am not sure if this will end up looking ok or what size molding to use-the rafters are standard 2-by-4s and the roof pitch is a 9-12. Thanks for any recommendations on how to make this look historically accurate (American Foursquare built in 1900) and aesthetically pleasing! | ||
| Walter_musson (Walter_musson) Senior Member Username: Walter_musson Post Number: 140 Registered: 07-2006 |
Is there any trim boars on the ends of the rafter tails ? There is no need to rivet and solder drip edge - a simple overlap is fine. | ||
| Behrmj (Behrmj) New member Username: Behrmj Post Number: 2 Registered: 11-2008 |
Two questions: (1) I have exposed rafter tails, but need to use a drip edge. What will be the most aesthetically pleasing configuration with the exposed rafter tails? (2) Is it best to rivet and solder overlapping pieces of drip edge, or just leave them overlapped in terms of performance, and of course appearance? Thanks a bunch! |
