| Author | Message | ||
     Old_school (Old_school) Senior Member Username: Old_school Post Number: 192 Registered: 01-2009 |
That works! Thanks for the update and the pics. | ||
| Spp (Spp) Junior Member Username: Spp Post Number: 14 Registered: 09-2008 |
Almost forgot to include pics of the roof vent that we had removed from between the dormers.   (Message edited by spp on July 26, 2009) | ||
| Spp (Spp) Junior Member Username: Spp Post Number: 13 Registered: 09-2008 |
Updated pics -- the masons were here 2 weeks ago and did spot pointing all around the house as needed and they also did the remaining sections of the chimney while they were here. My roof guy, Ron, just finished up on flashing the chimney and replacing a number of broken slate as well as some that were installed when the previous flashing work was done in the 1990's that were too short for where they were.. I thought I would share the updated pics -- I've included before and after pics of each section.         (Message edited by spp on July 25, 2009) | ||
| Spp (Spp) Junior Member Username: Spp Post Number: 12 Registered: 09-2008 |
Hi Joe. Thanks.. I am aware of the directory. Ron from Slateworks will be in the area for a repair job next week and said that he will stop by and take a look at my roof. Thx again everyone.. | ||
| Joe (Joe) Senior Member Username: Joe Post Number: 378 Registered: 07-2006 |
We have several SRCA members in the Pittsburgh area. (http://www.slateroofers.org/directory.html) | ||
| Walter_musson (Walter_musson) Senior Member Username: Walter_musson Post Number: 133 Registered: 07-2006 |
If the masons were working for the old owner as a condition of the sale , I can understand their reluctance to discuss more problems. Typically their crew wouldn't flash into the roof , but would install the lead counterflashings which you are lacking. In my area to reflash into the roof and cut reglets for new lead and install that might cost in the $1500 range. | ||
| Spp (Spp) Junior Member Username: Spp Post Number: 11 Registered: 09-2008 |
The photo with the scaffolding was from 2006 when they tore the chimney down to just a tad higher than the roof line and completely rebuilt it. I know now why they didn't go down any further - they didn't want to open up the can of worms I am looking at now. Pity too, as we were going to use them to do some additional work when finances allowed but not now. I am beside myself that they didn't make me aware of the situation on the back side of the chimney.. | ||
| Old_school (Old_school) Senior Member Username: Old_school Post Number: 78 Registered: 01-2009 |
SPP; A couple of things; Your last picture shows the slate cracked and a piece of copper pushed beneath it. There is one large step flashing going all the way up the wall too. There should have ben at least two and probably three steps along that side of the chimney and the broken slate should be replaced. On the other side of the chimney, even though it is ugly, the way that they have it almost might work. I would check very carefully into the way that the mortar joints are pointed. I saw more holes than mortar on most of it. On # 295 they had the scaffolding right on the chimney. Is that from 2 years ago when they re-did everything? It looks like if that was the case, they should have went farther down the chimney and fixed the bottom too. Like Walter said, the clinkers are hard to flash around, but they could have done a better job with the masonry work. | ||
| Kwhord (Kwhord) Senior Member Username: Kwhord Post Number: 179 Registered: 10-2006 |
That's typical of the quality of work performed by large roofing companies that do mostly shingle work. I would probably use lead counter flashing against those irregular bricks to get a good fit. | ||
| Walter_musson (Walter_musson) Senior Member Username: Walter_musson Post Number: 132 Registered: 07-2006 |
That looks terrible. They used caulking instead of cutting flashing into the brick joints. That chimney being built with " clinkers " makes the flashing a little more challenging , but still doable when you hire the right slater. | ||
| Spp (Spp) New member Username: Spp Post Number: 10 Registered: 09-2008 |
Well, I was able to pull the ladder out and get up closer to the back side of the chimney... does not look purdy... Left side: http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm127/projektzwo/P3110657.jpg http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm127/projektzwo/P3110660.jpg Right side: http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm127/projektzwo/P3110661.jpg http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm127/projektzwo/P3110662.jpg http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm127/projektzwo/P3110663.jpg http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm127/projektzwo/P3110666.jpg The thing that absolutely kills me is that back in 2006 when we bought the house, as a condition of the house sale, the upper portion of the chimney was torn down and completely rebuilt due to large bulges in the brick facade on the front from water getting in - why on earth didn't the guys doing the work mention this to me when they were up there? I would have tried to scrape the money together to get it repaired right then and there... http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm127/projektzwo/P9060027.jpg | ||
| Walter_musson (Walter_musson) Senior Member Username: Walter_musson Post Number: 131 Registered: 07-2006 |
Too hard to give you an accurate quote from here. Find a reputable slater from your area and get a price from them. Nothing takes the place of an onsite inspection to determine what repairs are truly necessary and what steps needed for the repairs - and the cost of them. | ||
| Spp (Spp) New member Username: Spp Post Number: 9 Registered: 09-2008 |
Old School- I am in the Pittsburgh, PA area. | ||
| Old_school (Old_school) Senior Member Username: Old_school Post Number: 77 Registered: 01-2009 |
Where are you located? | ||
| Slate_man (Slate_man) Senior Member Username: Slate_man Post Number: 374 Registered: 01-2007 |
Most slate roofs I have seen where the stone or brick work come's rigth to the slate roof. It is filled with the same motor as the stone or brick work and the slate should over hangeing that edge some more. Chimney needs some work. You may need some pcs of slate repair where these issue are, which may be the problem. | ||
| Spp (Spp) New member Username: Spp Post Number: 8 Registered: 09-2008 |
Thanks for the comments guys -- I don't have any pics on hand of the back side of the chimney flashing (cricket?) but will try and get some posted in the next few days... As it sits now, any idea what it would run to correct this? | ||
| Kwhord (Kwhord) Senior Member Username: Kwhord Post Number: 178 Registered: 10-2006 |
A third vote for the valley being the problem, especially at the bottom where the roof sweeps out. The chimney should have a saddle behind it probably, and the flashing should be stepped and tucked into the mortar joints. | ||
| Old_school (Old_school) Senior Member Username: Old_school Post Number: 75 Registered: 01-2009 |
Yuck! What walter said about the chimney flashing; or lack of it. It would be nice to have the slates extend over the edge of the brick on the top photos. It looks like the water is washing bach beneath the slates and getting the brick all wet. Someone did a crumby job of pointing the brinck on the chimney too! | ||
| Spp (Spp) New member Username: Spp Post Number: 7 Registered: 09-2008 |
The house was built in 1936. New copper gutters, downspouts and flashing were done sometime in the 90's from what I understand. | ||
| Walter_musson (Walter_musson) Senior Member Username: Walter_musson Post Number: 130 Registered: 07-2006 |
I'd be more suspect of the closed valley letting water into the house. The chimney should be totally reflashed by someone who has the proper skills. How old is the house ? | ||
| Spp (Spp) New member Username: Spp Post Number: 6 Registered: 09-2008 |
Two part question with photos: First question: Do I have an issue with the way that the slate meets the house on this curved end section of my front roof? The closet on the other side of the wall shows signs of water damage but I am unsure if it is old damage or ongoing. (I have not noticed any wet walls or anything like that.. but the plaster and baseboard clearly have had past water issues) There is also a small utility closet in the basement directly under the 1st floor closet in question and that closet is always damp and the walls and the steel I-Beam show signs of water - especially the I-beam where it meets the wall as it is rusting out. I am wondering if water is getting in here and working its way down inside the house...?? photo one: http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm127/projektzwo/P3080621.jpg Photo two: http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm127/projektzwo/P3080622.jpg photo three: http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm127/projektzwo/P3080622.jpg My next question is about the flashing in the sides of my chimney... both sides of the chimney show signs of water eroding the mortar. Water is making it past the gutter and onto the sides of the chimney. The flashing looks like crap on both sides - someone reflashed them at some point but shouldn't there be step flashing here? left side: http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm127/projektzwo/P3080624.jpg right side: http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm127/projektzwo/P3080625.jpg Also, on the right side of the chimney, it looks like I have a cracked slate and perhaps some other slate issues.. right side slate: http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm127/projektzwo/P3080626-1.jpg Thanks in advance for any input. |
