| Author | Message | ||
     Slate Affair Inc. Senior Member Username: Slate_man Post Number: 299 Registered: 01-2007 |
I recommend looking at the SMACNA Sheet Metal and Air Conditioning Contractors National Assaciation for the correct use of copper. As far as lay-out you can do what Peter suggested but to get the square feet there's a few ways. I take my measurement up the roof then around the cone. Divide the measurement around the turret by two, this make two areas that if you layed it out flat it would make two triangles. So lets say you have measurements of 22 feet up the roof and 55 around the roof. Divide the cirile in half, to 27.5 x that by 22 (the run of the roof) =6.05 square. I would end up getting 12 squares. I us a pan former that makes 21 inch panels and end up with mistakes and waste. But I only have to make one of the two seam. Hope this helped. | ||
| Rick M New member Username: Roofer_rick Post Number: 4 Registered: 11-2008 |
yes it will be double lock, but for thermal movement the job calls for the pannels to be no longer than 4' with fixed points and solder all joints, so we will use a hook stip every 4' section | ||
| Peter Member Username: Plaughlin1 Post Number: 26 Registered: 03-2007 |
What i typically do is buy coil stock that is long enough to run from eave edge to the very point. Then cut the coil diagonaly so you get 2 pieces out of every section of coil, that way you have no waste. Are you doing double locked standing seam? or just turning the sides up and capping them with a butyl filled cap? | ||
| Rick M New member Username: Roofer_rick Post Number: 3 Registered: 11-2008 |
we are using 4' x 10' 20 oz Copper, making them with an 1" high rib on the brake starting out with 32" panels on the drip. Thanks | ||
| Slate Affair Inc. Senior Member Username: Slate_man Post Number: 298 Registered: 01-2007 |
What kind of copper roofing are you installing. | ||
| Kurtis Hord Senior Member Username: Kwhord Post Number: 117 Registered: 10-2006 |
You hijacked a thread with something completely off-topic. Start a new discussion. | ||
| Rick M New member Username: Roofer_rick Post Number: 2 Registered: 11-2008 |
I have a question on a conical slate roof. It's measuring 120'(around) at the drip and 40' (around) at the top, measuring 26' from drip to ridge we figured aprox 21 square, question is, they want to remove slate and replace with copper, anyone know what to figure for waste? Thanks | ||
| Slate Affair Inc. Senior Member Username: Slate_man Post Number: 290 Registered: 01-2007 |
Rick try using La-co flux, with lead-coated. | ||
| Kurtis Hord Senior Member Username: Kwhord Post Number: 114 Registered: 10-2006 |
Electric iron is pretty tough to use outside of a shop setting. Considering how portable the express is, there's really no comparison. As for soldering neatly you just have to practice and control your heat and flux carefully. Use 60/40 solder for lead coated copper. | ||
| Rick Miles New member Username: Roofer_rick Post Number: 1 Registered: 11-2008 |
I have to solder a copper valley in the near future and am wondering...any suggestions on how to do it without it dropping down the valley and looking so messy? Also, I just looked at a lead-coated copper roof...what type of solder do you use for patching that? I just bought the 550 watt soldering iron and am looking into the express iron. Which is better for roofing? | ||
| Joe Jenkins Senior Member Username: Joe Post Number: 335 Registered: 07-2006 |
Closed flame soldering outfits can be viewed here: http://josephjenkins.com/store/home.php?cat=317 | ||
| Kurtis Hord Senior Member Username: Kwhord Post Number: 112 Registered: 10-2006 |
It's just bad practice. Get an express self-contained torch for roofing work. The ~400 dollars you spend is much less than the cost of a lawsuit from burning a house down. | ||
| Slate Affair Inc. Senior Member Username: Slate_man Post Number: 289 Registered: 01-2007 |
Most people use irones so that there's no flame in contact to the copper. There a possiblity that you could heat up the under layment and deck. Which could start a fire. I us a acetylene torch some to, not a turdo torch they are hard to control. I use flux to soilder and alot of it, my though is the more flux in the seam the less the flame might start something on fire. (Old building I recomend to us a soldering iron, because of how dry/old the wood structure is.) A layer of 30lb felt instead of roisn paper as a slip sheet. | ||
| Michael Behr New member Username: Behrmj Post Number: 1 Registered: 11-2008 |
I am wondering if my acetylene torch (what I use for soldering and brazing copper pipe) will work to solder copper flashing seams (mechanically secured with rivets) for my roof. Or do I need to specifically use a soldering iron? If so, why? Thanks! |
