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Slate Affair Inc.
Advanced Member
Username: Slate_man

Post Number: 47
Registered: 01-2007
Posted on Friday, April 13, 2007 - 06:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Well after reading Pauls info again I will need to read a little slower. I mist the part about not being able to move the truss either. So, in this case Joe's opinion of the 2x6 t&g would be the way to go.

I have work on a building in NH a Ruger private home. The roof rafter were 2x12 12'oc with 1"x12" steel plates running up all hip. The deck was 2" x6" T&G boards that made for the best deck I have ever work on.

I would after rereading again you would be crazy to even build your roof 3' oc.

How did the roof go maybe you will read this one day Paul.
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Slate Affair Inc.
Advanced Member
Username: Slate_man

Post Number: 46
Registered: 01-2007
Posted on Thursday, April 12, 2007 - 05:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Well thats rigth, I missed that part. I should of added the standard 16' oc rafter would be the part I forgot to add. The only people who use 3' are farmer in Vermont. Also there are standard for weight and rafter layout in Joes book and most other slate roof books.
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Joe Jenkins
Senior Member
Username: Joe

Post Number: 84
Registered: 07-2006
Posted on Thursday, April 12, 2007 - 12:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

900 mm is three feet, which is too wide for a 1" board to span without the risk of eventual sagging.

50mm X 50mm battens are 2" X 2" and would be light for a 3" (900 mm) span.

The ideal deck in this situation, in my opinion, would be 2"X 6" (50mm X 150mm) tongue in groove lumber.
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Slate Affair Inc.
Advanced Member
Username: Slate_man

Post Number: 42
Registered: 01-2007
Posted on Monday, April 09, 2007 - 06:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Well I would have use the plywood(3/4), then underlayment(heavy paper) and all the strapping. This gives you the best of both worlds. You end up with tempary roof with underlayment then with the stapping(1") you can get strength and venting. I know I am late with a suggestion.
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Paul Sanderson
Posted on Wednesday, May 03, 2006 - 09:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

A few years back I purchased a container of recycled Welsh slate. The slate size is 410mm x 235mm, thickness 4mm 5mm. Nail holes 150mm from the top. I would like to use them in a new dwelling which will use pre fabricated trusses at 900mm centres. The trusses are 4.8m high to a flat top.
My designer has allowed 50mm x 50mm battens direct onto the truss with no allowance for a deck or underlay.
My slater (London trained) thinks the 50mm x 50mm battens on a 900mm span will cause movement problems. As the trusses cannot be moved closer he has suggested 15mm ply for a deck with counter battens and 50mm x 25mm battens for the slate. If I had to go this way I would prefer 6 x 1 rough sawn pine for a deck. What would you suggest for 900mm centre trusses if I wish to roof with this slate and then there is the question of an underlay if I use a deck. Does any one have any suggestions. I live in New Zealand where building permits are getting harder and slate roofing is termed an alternative building method where you have to prove primary and secondry defence systems for weather tightness.

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