need standing seam advice

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Author Message   AJ Posted on Wednesday, March 30, 2005 - 10:57 am:        I need to replace the standing seam roof on my house this summer. The roof is original equipment (120 years!) It has panels approx 18”x28” that are flat seamed (and appear to be soldered?) to form the pans for the standing seam. (pans are 18 wide) I’m assuming this is terne roofing and I’d like to replace it with the same. I can get Terne II from Follansbee in 20x28 sheets. I know copper and stainless are better but I’d like the roof to be painted red (as original). I’m not a roofer but I’ve done asphalt and the modern ‘snap seam’ type metal roofing. I think I understand the basics but I’m not sure about soldering , chimney flashing, and, well ok I’m not sure about a lot... Where can I get detailed info? Should I buy the (very expensive) SMACNA manual? Does the Slate Roof Bible have info on standing seam? Also, the roof is sagging approx 1.5” over 16 feet, can the pans form to this or will they buckle? Thanks, AJ   Anonymous Posted on Wednesday, March 30, 2005 - 12:58 pm:        you make it sound like you want to change a standing seam roof then you talk about flat pan locked and soldered that are 18"X28" then you say they form the pans for standing seam. we'll i really don't understand what you are changing because i've never seen standing seam pans that small unless roof is only 28" from eve to ridge?   AJ Posted on Thursday, March 31, 2005 - 11:54 am:        Sorry, I guess that wasn't very clear. The roof is standing seam but the pans are made from small panels that are flat seamed and soldered. So each pan(approx 18 feet long) has about eight 28 inch panels. I guess they didn't have rolls of steel to make a continuous pan in 1885 (?) Like I said, I'm not a roofer, I think I understand the basic single and double seams(terminology???), I just need info on soldering and complex seams like chimney flashing, ridge, drip edge, etc...   Walter Musson Posted on Friday, April 01, 2005 - 04:54 am:        Just because they used small sheets once doesn't mean you're bound by those same constrainsts. The labor to fit and solder all those sheets,then have to make standing seams on each seems like a daunting task. Why not have someone make you full runs with a pan former,so that you can just do the install. Sounds like a tricky job for someone who doesn't make his living at this work.   Anonymous Posted on Tuesday, September 13, 2005 - 12:52 pm:        Need vents for a standing seam roof. Please advise   Anonymous Posted on Tuesday, September 13, 2005 - 07:14 pm:        roof mounted or ridge vents?   Anonymous Posted on Wednesday, September 14, 2005 - 12:17 pm:        Do you have a detail for the roof mounted?   Anonymous Posted on Thursday, September 15, 2005 - 09:31 am:        Well no, but there are several ways to do it. First if it was me I would try to go with a ridge vent. This is for a few reasons. First it is easier, ridge vents are more efficient than roof mounted, requires less soldering and in my opinion looks ALOT BETTER. If you go with roof mounted they must be made of copper or a capatable metal. Next you will have to lock, clip and solder the roof mounted vent into you standing seam panels and solder, this is with the front edge of roof mounted vent with an overlap lock to standing seam panel, sides it really dosen't matter which way you lock the seam (I always lock to the inside but, I don't see an advantage either way) and last the top or back of roof mounted vent will have to be locked to standing seam panel in an underlapping lock. Water runs down hill you don't want it running against the locking seam you want it running with the locking seam. All seams have (must) be soldered around the roof mounted vent(s). COPPER ON !!!