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Raymond_g (Raymond_g)
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Username: Raymond_g

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Registered: 08-2015
Posted on Friday, August 14, 2015 - 05:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Im looking for opinions on the metal to use for the lining of a box gutter. I used rubber 25 years ago and that was a bad idea.
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Archshelley (Archshelley)
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Registered: 05-2015
Posted on Tuesday, May 12, 2015 - 04:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I see that we have a lot of people talking about replacing terne metal with another material because it is easier. But, in Charleston, SC that doesn't always work. My question is why no one is talking about how they have taken the lead out of the historic terne metal and replaced it with zinc. I am working on a house with an historic terne metal roof and then the house that abuts that is tile with a hydrostop valley. We are getting ready to make repairs to the parapet that exists between the two. Right now this parapet is a thin coat of stucco over metal lath. Our contractor is suggesting to use Galvalume over the entire parapet. We had thought of using copper with the ice/water shield where we meet the existing metal roof, but have decided against it because it could still react with the terne metal. But, now I'm wondering is the Galvalume also going to react with the existing roof? They had originally given us a price for hydrostop over the entire parapet, which will not interact with the metal but will only last 10 years. I am about ready just to tell the homeowner to use the hydrostop and just recoat it every 10 years. Any suggestions?
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jamie callan
Posted on Sunday, April 04, 2004 - 12:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I am bidding on installing a new porch roof that was originally terne metal, and now covered in asphalt. The home is on the national register of historic homes and the owners are preservation minded folks. I know nothing about the current use of terne metal, or what it really is. was it always terne coated stainlesss steel? And what is terne? How does it compare in cost and longevity to 20-ounce copper? Are the same methods of application used as with copper? any info would be great!
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admin
Posted on Sunday, April 04, 2004 - 01:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Terne is an alloy coating of lead and tin used to cover steel - the terne coated steel is also known as terne metal and often referred to as "tin" (get the Slate Roof Bible). You can still buy terne-coated steel at any roofing supply place. We do not use it because it's better to use terne coated STAINLESS steel (TCS), or copper, when replacing terne metal roofs. Both TCS and copper will outlast terne metal and don't need painted until they reach about 50 years (if ever). Terne metal needs painted immediately or it will rust and it has to be painted regularly. If it is kept painted, it will last a long time (90 years).

The latest version of terne is called terne II. It is an alloy of zinc and tin (the lead has been removed for environmental reasons). The terne coated stainless is now called TCSII. It's available from Follansbee in Follansbee, WV.

I should add that when ordering terne coated stainless from a roofing supply company make sure you make it very clear that it's STAINLESS steel you're ordering. Numerous times we have been shipped terne coated steel instead of the terne coated stainless steel that we ordered due to salesmen who weren't too bright and didn't know the difference.
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jamie callan
Posted on Sunday, April 04, 2004 - 10:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I certainly will be buying the slate roof bible. which is better, tcs11 or copper? i would imagine copper is less expensive. do you solder tcs11 with the same products as copper? i use johnson's soldering fluid and 50/50 tin-lead solder, it seems great. what are other people using?
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Walter Musson
Posted on Monday, April 05, 2004 - 05:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Jamie,
You could use 20 oz. copper on this roof even though it's a N.R. property,since you're making it better than exists now,i.e. asphalt.
Unless the folks are true Restorationists intent on bringing it back to strictly original I can't see why they couldn't understand the logic of using copper and not having to paint the roof periodically.
Sounds like a copper install poses no problems for you.
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jamie callan
Posted on Monday, April 05, 2004 - 07:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

do you need to paint the new terne coated stainless? i agree that 20 oz. copper should be fine, and i am familiar with it, just curious about the terne
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admin
Posted on Monday, April 05, 2004 - 03:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

You don't need to paint the TCS. It will probably outlast the copper, but it is a little more expensive and maybe a little harder to solder. You can use 50:50 solder, although, for a lead free application you would use pure tin solder. Either works. 20 ounce copper makes a fine roof too (but my opinion is that the stainless is more durable and will last longer if installed correctly).

Joe
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Laura Altman
Posted on Wednesday, August 18, 2004 - 07:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I am working on a historic house in Charleston, South Carolina, where we are replacing the original terne metal roof. The preservation folks are expecting us to put a new painted terne metal roof back on the house. I have heard numerous stories of the paint not sticking to the new terne metal (terneII) and that the terne metal is having to be repainted every 3 or so years, as opposed to the 8 to 10 years recommended by Follansbee. Do you know of any similar problems? Is there any hard/scientific evidence out there that the Follansbee paint system is an insufficient product? We are trying to make a case that a copper roof would be a better choice. Any advice would be welcome.
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admin
Posted on Wednesday, August 18, 2004 - 10:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

How about using terne-coated *stainless* steel rather than terne coated steel? Then you wouldn't need to paint it.
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slateworks
Posted on Wednesday, August 18, 2004 - 04:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

We have Installed several terne tin roofs that are 10-12 years old,they were painted with Tinners red oxide when installed,I painted 2 of them a couple of years ago ,the others I do not know if they have been re-painted or not,the roofs are holding up very well. The terne coated stainless as admin.suggests would be a top of the line choice for you new roof,but the Preservation folks want the original look and whenever possible replace or repair in kind,meaning to keep the building materials and appearance as original as possible. Good Luck.
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Nils Simonsen
Posted on Friday, October 01, 2004 - 03:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Just came accross your message board, researching Terne Metal. I think the best replacement for Terne Coated metal is pure Zinc. Never needs painting, developes a beautiful gray patina, even comes pre-weathered. I have used it on some projects and it performs great. Very easy to roll form and detail. Check it out.. www.vmzinc-us.com
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Chuck Tanguay
Posted on Tuesday, August 23, 2005 - 07:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Yeah, but just try to solder it with that 'pre-weathering'. Stay away, roofers!

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