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Thumanm (Thumanm)
Junior Member Username: Thumanm
Post Number: 14 Registered: 01-2011
| Posted on Monday, August 01, 2011 - 07:07 pm: |
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Only one more question about rivets. BTW they are copper with brass mandrels. My question is about expansion and pop rivets. The rivets will dig a hole in the wood. They will essentially become locked in place. Are they still OK to use? Will the resultant expansion and contraction pop them out of the holes? |
   
Old_school (Old_school)
Senior Member Username: Old_school
Post Number: 667 Registered: 01-2009
| Posted on Monday, July 25, 2011 - 08:21 pm: |
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Make sure they are copper rivets too. Steel ones work, but they will rust and pop out. |
   
Joe (Joe)
Moderator Username: Joe
Post Number: 625 Registered: 07-2006

| Posted on Sunday, July 24, 2011 - 10:43 pm: |
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As long as the rivet hole is filled with solder, you don't have to solder it again. |
   
Thumanm (Thumanm)
Junior Member Username: Thumanm
Post Number: 13 Registered: 01-2011
| Posted on Friday, July 22, 2011 - 07:45 pm: |
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I have a soldering qestion. This is my best solder run yet. But when it comes to rivets should I fully solder over them as I did on what that was giving me trouble or leave them as the rest? |
   
Thumanm (Thumanm)
Junior Member Username: Thumanm
Post Number: 12 Registered: 01-2011
| Posted on Friday, July 22, 2011 - 05:33 pm: |
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Thanks ordered today. I will give you pictures of when done so that others can see the work. My soldering is getting better but still ugly by your standards. |
   
Joe (Joe)
Moderator Username: Joe
Post Number: 622 Registered: 07-2006

| Posted on Friday, July 22, 2011 - 11:25 am: |
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The bumps are exaggerated in the drawing and do not get in the way. There is a better photo here: http://josephjenkins.com/store/popup_image.php?type=D&id=16200&title=Berger%20F4 5CPB%20COPPER%20DRIP%20EDGE%2C%20200%27%20Carton&area=C. Yes, you can paint copper with just about any paint. |
   
Thumanm (Thumanm)
Junior Member Username: Thumanm
Post Number: 11 Registered: 01-2011
| Posted on Wednesday, July 20, 2011 - 04:02 pm: |
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Yes I know as I mentioned I need something similiar to the F 4 1/2 or F5 but will the bumps on the top as shown on the web site cause me any issues? How large are these bumps? The F 4 1/2 would be ideal if it will work and I would only need 1 carton. I would ship to my work place then get help loading it into my van to bring home. For security with copper theft I will paint the copper were it shows. Does copper take paint well and will latex or oil base be more appropiate? What the theives here can't see they don't steal. |
   
Joe (Joe)
Moderator Username: Joe
Post Number: 619 Registered: 07-2006

| Posted on Wednesday, July 20, 2011 - 11:27 am: |
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We have a wide variety of copper drip edges at slateroofwarehouse.com: http://josephjenkins.com/store/copper-drip-edge/. Most are available in carton lots and you will need tractor trailer access. |
   
Old_school (Old_school)
Senior Member Username: Old_school
Post Number: 660 Registered: 01-2009
| Posted on Monday, July 18, 2011 - 07:57 pm: |
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Thurman, Call Old World distributors @ 269-372-3916 and talk to Ken. He will walk you through it and he will make whatever you need and send it to you. That is my best advice. |
   
Thumanm (Thumanm)
New member Username: Thumanm
Post Number: 10 Registered: 01-2011
| Posted on Monday, July 18, 2011 - 07:03 pm: |
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I have reviewed your drip edges available in the solder warehouse and cannot find one matching the picture. For a built in gutter we would want a flat top with no cant. Then a protrusion to lock against. Similiar to the F4 1/2 or F5 but flat on top. I would need approximately 20 8' peices. Can you offer suggestions? |
   
Oghcarpentry (Oghcarpentry)
New member Username: Oghcarpentry
Post Number: 8 Registered: 03-2009
| Posted on Wednesday, March 25, 2009 - 09:04 pm: |
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Thanks. The pics posted here and under the other thread help a lot. I'll make sure to post and let you know how it turns out. |
   
Joe (Joe)
Senior Member Username: Joe
Post Number: 383 Registered: 07-2006

| Posted on Monday, March 23, 2009 - 04:59 pm: |
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This illustration may help.
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Kwhord (Kwhord)
Senior Member Username: Kwhord
Post Number: 184 Registered: 10-2006
| Posted on Monday, March 23, 2009 - 07:16 am: |
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There are several ways. The easiest is to use a drip-edge with a locking edge just like the kind used for metal roofing. The drip edge gets nailed down first and then the gutter lining is folded over the edge and crimped tight with hand seamers or a mallet and seaming iron. Don't face nail. When using drip edge, make sure your substrate is SOLID and nail it down very well. Wind can and will rip the pan out if the front edge isn't secured well. |
   
Oghcarpentry (Oghcarpentry)
New member Username: Oghcarpentry
Post Number: 4 Registered: 03-2009
| Posted on Monday, March 23, 2009 - 06:51 am: |
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How do you attach the front edge of a built-in box gutter? Thanks |