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Thumanm (Thumanm)
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Username: Thumanm

Post Number: 14
Registered: 01-2011
Posted on Monday, August 01, 2011 - 07:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Only one more question about rivets. BTW they are copper with brass mandrels. My question is about expansion and pop rivets. The rivets will dig a hole in the wood. They will essentially become locked in place. Are they still OK to use?
Will the resultant expansion and contraction pop them out of the holes?
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Old_school (Old_school)
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Username: Old_school

Post Number: 667
Registered: 01-2009
Posted on Monday, July 25, 2011 - 08:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Make sure they are copper rivets too. Steel ones work, but they will rust and pop out.
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Joe (Joe)
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Username: Joe

Post Number: 625
Registered: 07-2006


Posted on Sunday, July 24, 2011 - 10:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

As long as the rivet hole is filled with solder, you don't have to solder it again.
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Thumanm (Thumanm)
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Username: Thumanm

Post Number: 13
Registered: 01-2011
Posted on Friday, July 22, 2011 - 07:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I have a soldering qestion. This is my best solder run yet. But when it comes to rivets should I fully solder over them as I did on what that was giving me trouble or leave them as the rest?Riveted Soldered Joint
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Thumanm (Thumanm)
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Username: Thumanm

Post Number: 12
Registered: 01-2011
Posted on Friday, July 22, 2011 - 05:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Thanks ordered today.
I will give you pictures of when done so that others can see the work. My soldering is getting better but still ugly by your standards.
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Joe (Joe)
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Username: Joe

Post Number: 622
Registered: 07-2006


Posted on Friday, July 22, 2011 - 11:25 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

The bumps are exaggerated in the drawing and do not get in the way. There is a better photo here: http://josephjenkins.com/store/popup_image.php?type=D&id=16200&title=Berger%20F4 5CPB%20COPPER%20DRIP%20EDGE%2C%20200%27%20Carton&area=C. Yes, you can paint copper with just about any paint.
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Thumanm (Thumanm)
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Username: Thumanm

Post Number: 11
Registered: 01-2011
Posted on Wednesday, July 20, 2011 - 04:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Yes I know as I mentioned I need something similiar to the F 4 1/2 or F5 but will the bumps on the top as shown on the web site cause me any issues?
How large are these bumps?
The F 4 1/2 would be ideal if it will work and I would only need 1 carton. I would ship to my work place then get help loading it into my van to bring home. For security with copper theft I will paint the copper were it shows. Does copper take paint well and will latex or oil base be more appropiate? What the theives here can't see they don't steal.
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Joe (Joe)
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Username: Joe

Post Number: 619
Registered: 07-2006


Posted on Wednesday, July 20, 2011 - 11:27 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

We have a wide variety of copper drip edges at slateroofwarehouse.com: http://josephjenkins.com/store/copper-drip-edge/. Most are available in carton lots and you will need tractor trailer access.
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Old_school (Old_school)
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Username: Old_school

Post Number: 660
Registered: 01-2009
Posted on Monday, July 18, 2011 - 07:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Thurman, Call Old World distributors @ 269-372-3916 and talk to Ken. He will walk you through it and he will make whatever you need and send it to you. That is my best advice.
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Thumanm (Thumanm)
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Username: Thumanm

Post Number: 10
Registered: 01-2011
Posted on Monday, July 18, 2011 - 07:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I have reviewed your drip edges available in the solder warehouse and cannot find one matching the picture. For a built in gutter we would want a flat top with no cant. Then a protrusion to lock against. Similiar to the F4 1/2 or F5 but flat on top.
I would need approximately 20 8' peices. Can you offer suggestions?
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Oghcarpentry (Oghcarpentry)
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Username: Oghcarpentry

Post Number: 8
Registered: 03-2009
Posted on Wednesday, March 25, 2009 - 09:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Thanks. The pics posted here and under the other thread help a lot.

I'll make sure to post and let you know how it turns out.
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Joe (Joe)
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Username: Joe

Post Number: 383
Registered: 07-2006


Posted on Monday, March 23, 2009 - 04:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

This illustration may help.

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Kwhord (Kwhord)
Senior Member
Username: Kwhord

Post Number: 184
Registered: 10-2006
Posted on Monday, March 23, 2009 - 07:16 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

There are several ways. The easiest is to use a drip-edge with a locking edge just like the kind used for metal roofing. The drip edge gets nailed down first and then the gutter lining is folded over the edge and crimped tight with hand seamers or a mallet and seaming iron. Don't face nail. When using drip edge, make sure your substrate is SOLID and nail it down very well. Wind can and will rip the pan out if the front edge isn't secured well.
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Oghcarpentry (Oghcarpentry)
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Username: Oghcarpentry

Post Number: 4
Registered: 03-2009
Posted on Monday, March 23, 2009 - 06:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

How do you attach the front edge of a built-in box gutter?

Thanks

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