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Elizebethwoodhall (Elizebethwoodhall)
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Username: Elizebethwoodhall

Post Number: 3
Registered: 03-2014
Posted on Thursday, March 13, 2014 - 06:27 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Thanks Old_school for your concern, but I was just trying to understand or solve the issue of Mike as I also have Reno house!!!
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Old_school (Old_school)
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Username: Old_school

Post Number: 1053
Registered: 01-2009
Posted on Wednesday, March 12, 2014 - 09:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Mike and Elizabeth, I am having a hard time understanding what you are talking about, so I am not sure how you both know what to do. Send a picture!
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Elizebethwoodhall (Elizebethwoodhall)
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Registered: 03-2014
Posted on Wednesday, March 12, 2014 - 07:14 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Hi Mikejacobs!!
Even I am new in this forum....
repairing a remo home by just watching a video will not help you as it may cause any leakage from slates. Why don't you contact to home repair contractor?
I mean is there any problem to find contactor for same?
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Mikejacobs (Mikejacobs)
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Posted on Wednesday, February 05, 2014 - 07:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

new from Nevada. Recently bought 1995 Reno house with slate roof. Learned from videos how to repair. There is a small valley about 1-12 pitch or 10 degrees 3'x3' which has 1 side that drops to roof edge and has a 20 degree pitch. Both covered with heavy grade tar paper. Should I slate the valley? no leaks now. worried for future. Slates running down to paper have edges covered with sealant. Live in desert and seldom rains but snow will build up in valley and worried about ice dams under slate.
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Branden_wilson (Branden_wilson)
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Username: Branden_wilson

Post Number: 115
Registered: 03-2008
Posted on Friday, April 20, 2012 - 10:37 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

one well placed round is always better than machine gun spray.

REAL SLATER
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Cpaulin (Cpaulin)
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Post Number: 6
Registered: 08-2006
Posted on Tuesday, March 27, 2012 - 07:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Sue,

You're trying to use a material that doesn't work for your situation: you will never be able to get anything to seal or adhere, permanently, to both the copper and the rolled roofing. Copper does not like to adhere to anything.

On top of that, you're ignoring any type of lap in the direction of flow. Things must be properly lapped in the direction of flow to work long-term in roofing. The valley must be installed before and under the field roofing.

You need to look at a copy of SMACNA and re-roof the entire area properly.
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Old_school (Old_school)
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Username: Old_school

Post Number: 212
Registered: 01-2009
Posted on Saturday, August 15, 2009 - 10:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

15 degrees is about a 3/12 pitch. It is deceiving from the pictures as it doesn't look like that at all. I don't use the Karnak material, so I can't comment on how long it will take to adhere. The problem is that you are trying to stop the water running down the roof with the "joint" going against the flow of water. Normally, when you fight the water you loose, but only 100% of the time. If you are going to use the Flintlastic, use it all the way to the shed points, and use a full sheet in the valley. It is designed for the water to be on it and if it has a bit of pitch it should last. With the constant movement of the copper and the cement, it will always break loose. good luck!
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Sue (Sue)
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Username: Sue

Post Number: 10
Registered: 08-2009
Posted on Saturday, August 15, 2009 - 05:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I believe the intent of my original message may have been lost. I am not worried about water leakage through my horizontal valley. This has never occurred in 30 years! The intent of my question had to do with a strip of copper I laid in the valley whose adhesion I am not satisfied with.

Below is my original post, and I have also added some additional remarks to bring you up to date on the current situation. Thank you very much for your taking the time to consider my plight.

Original Post:

" I adhered a 20" wide copper coil 23 feet in length on a 25 foot horizontal valley into which no nails can be put. It is presently covered by Flintlastic rolled roofing using Karnak 81 on top of a Karnak primer.

My problem lies in the fact that the 81 won't hold the copper thoroughly and throughout so that some water is getting in between the rolled roofing and the copper. I'm in a mess with this, as we're in an area that is being inundated with rain almost daily.

Yesterday, we heaped up Karnak 19 on the edge of the copper so no water could penetrate and that seems to be working, in that no new water is infiltrating.

We want the 81 to be a permanent bond between the copper and the rolled roofing. Will that ever be the case? If that will be the case, how long will that take?"

Current Situation:

The edges of the copper don't seem to be lying completely flat in the Karnak 19. They seem to flex slightly in the weather (hot and cold), for instance. And the Karnak 19 is still pliable and not completely dry. Will the Karnak 19 ever dry completely? Should I put more on? Is there a better way to fix the edges of the copper to the roof to prevent any movement without nailing?

Perhaps it is relevant to tell you how we plan on finishing the valley section of the re-roof. We're going to adhere the shingles with blindnailing cement (Karnak 19) for a distrance of 3 feet on either side of the valley leaving a 6" exposure of copper at the bottom of the valley. Would this hold the copper to the Flintastic securely?

Thank you again for your help,

Sue
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Sue (Sue)
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Post Number: 9
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Posted on Saturday, August 15, 2009 - 07:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

to Old School: The roof actually is at a 15 degree angle. Do you have any ideas on how to fix the copper to the rolled roofing in the valley? In 30 years, we've never had a leak with the horizontal valleys, but this is the first time we are using the copper over the rolled roofing because in the past, we've had to replace the rolled roofing about every 10 years due to wear; with the copper, we are hoping to have a longer life. So our problem really is how to get the copper to adhere to the rolled roofing which is currently covering the valley. Actually there are about 3 layers of rolled roofing that we've put on in the past 20 years, due to wear and tear.

Thanks, Sue
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Slate_man (Slate_man)
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Post Number: 457
Registered: 01-2007
Posted on Wednesday, August 12, 2009 - 05:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

For sure, rubber roof it all.
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Old_school (Old_school)
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Post Number: 207
Registered: 01-2009
Posted on Tuesday, August 11, 2009 - 09:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Sue, that is a flat roof, and you have to treat it as such. Put in a built up roof or a EPDM rubber roof and your problems will go away. There are a lot of roofers out there that do the rubber and it would be relatively simple for them. Some things you should pay for the professionals to do
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Sue (Sue)
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Username: Sue

Post Number: 8
Registered: 08-2009
Posted on Tuesday, August 11, 2009 - 10:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

The pictures really don't speak for themselves, unfortunately. There are 4 houses in all. You are looking at 2 houses joined by a horizontal valley. In the first pic, there is no copper, in the second one, which is a different valley, the copper is laid on top of rolled roofing. And the problem is that we can't really get the copper to adhere to the rolled roofing. We used a carnak primer followed by carnak 81on both the copper and the rolled roofing. We then tarred the edges of the copper with carnak 19. Even this doesn't seem to be holding the copper down, at least at the edges where it meets the roofs.

Ideas? thank you.

Sue
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Sue (Sue)
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Posted on Tuesday, August 11, 2009 - 09:48 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Sorry for the duplicate. This is what the valley looked like before the copper.

Another valley, Pre-Copper

Thank you!
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Sue (Sue)
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Username: Sue

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Posted on Tuesday, August 11, 2009 - 09:46 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Tarred Copper Coil
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Sue (Sue)
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Username: Sue

Post Number: 5
Registered: 08-2009
Posted on Tuesday, August 11, 2009 - 09:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Photo of the tarred copper coil. (Distorted to downsize.)

Copper Coil Tarred w Karnak19 (Karnak 81 under the copper)\

Thank you!
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Joe (Joe)
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Username: Joe

Post Number: 425
Registered: 07-2006
Posted on Sunday, August 09, 2009 - 01:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

If your images are too large, they will not upload. Try reducing them to 72 pixels/inch and 500 pixels wide. Photoshop will do this for you by the "save for web" option. Just select a 500 pixel width when saving.
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Sue (Sue)
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Posted on Sunday, August 09, 2009 - 09:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I'm unable to upload pix of horizontal valley, can you help?

thanks.
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Sue (Sue)
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Username: Sue

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Posted on Thursday, August 06, 2009 - 08:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

thanks all. I hope to be sending pictures soon.

Sue
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Old_school (Old_school)
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Username: Old_school

Post Number: 203
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Posted on Monday, August 03, 2009 - 08:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I want to see the "Horizontal" valley. If it is what I think it is, you should put a slight cricket or saddle in the area so that the water flows away. If you are relying on plastic roofing cement to keep you dry, sooner than later you will lose!
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Slate_man (Slate_man)
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Post Number: 453
Registered: 01-2007
Posted on Monday, August 03, 2009 - 05:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I think we need some picture!
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Sue (Sue)
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Username: Sue

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Posted on Monday, August 03, 2009 - 07:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Should have said this is a re-roof. On previous installation we used no nails at all, it being a horizontal valley, we didn't want to put nails in for risk of water sitting in valley and eventually leaking through. It worked for 20 years, so we're not using any nails at all.

We've used carnak primer and carnak 81 so far to adhere copper to rolled roofing layer, but have not gotten any kind of tight seal between the copper and rolled roofing (flintlastic). Out of desperation, we heaped up carnak 19 along the seam between the copper and the roof and that appears to be holding new water from getting in between the layers. But will the copper ever really adhere to the membrane underneath? If so, how long would that take to occur?

At the moment, no pix, but i will see if i can get those for you.

thanks, Sue
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Slate_man (Slate_man)
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Username: Slate_man

Post Number: 451
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Posted on Monday, August 03, 2009 - 05:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Are you useing clips with nail? What are you trying to do ? Do you have any pictures?
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Sue (Sue)
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Username: Sue

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Registered: 08-2009
Posted on Sunday, August 02, 2009 - 07:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I adhered a 20" wide copper coil 23 feet in length on a 25 foot horizontal valley into which no nails can be put. It is presently covered by Flintlastic rolled roofing using carnak 81 on top of a carnak primer.

My problem lies in the fact that the 81 won't hold the copper thoroughly and throughout so that some water is getting in between the rolled roofing and the copper. I'm in a mess with this, as we're in an area that is being inundated with rain almost daily.

Yesterday, we heaped up carnak 19 on the edge of the copper so no water could penetrate and that seems to be working, in that no new water is infiltrating.


We want the 81 to be a permanent bond between the copper and the rolled roofing. Will that ever be the case? If that will be the case, how long will that take?

Thank you for your help,

Sue

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