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John_chan (John_chan)
Senior Member
Username: John_chan

Post Number: 198
Registered: 08-2006
Posted on Monday, November 05, 2018 - 04:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

John is right. At 93 years old, it's on its last legs unless it's 24 ounce copper or thicker. You want the high-back gutter if the front is either lower than the back or if the front has very little height differential than the back.
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Old_school (Old_school)
Senior Member
Username: Old_school

Post Number: 1225
Registered: 01-2009
Posted on Sunday, October 28, 2018 - 07:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

It is hard to say with the picture you have. Do they drain? Perhaps you could slide a piece of copper beneath the slates and have it come down and over the bend at the flange. The water has to be directed into the gutters. That is the bottom line.
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Mr_clay (Mr_clay)
New member
Username: Mr_clay

Post Number: 4
Registered: 08-2017
Posted on Friday, October 05, 2018 - 06:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Thank you for the advice. Is it necessary to replace with similar high-back gutters or will regular gutter with a flashing work just as well? It seems to me that installing high-back gutters is a bit more complicated due to the pitch for down flow.

Thank you again.
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Old_school (Old_school)
Senior Member
Username: Old_school

Post Number: 1223
Registered: 01-2009
Posted on Saturday, September 29, 2018 - 09:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

It is 93 years old now. The copper wears out and it oxidizes as it gets older. That is what is called the "patina" or the green color. When Steel oxidizes, it is the same process, but it is called rust. It just takes longer with the copper. It first turns green, and when it gets really thin, it turns light brown again. What you will find is that it is paper thin and getting worse. It is time to replace the gutters. Good luck.
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Mr_clay (Mr_clay)
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Username: Mr_clay

Post Number: 3
Registered: 08-2017
Posted on Wednesday, September 12, 2018 - 05:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Repair or replace the copper gutter? The gutters generally appear to be in good condition. There are no leaks on the channel part of the gutters and only a few leaks at the solder joints. The main problem is at the bend of the flange per the picture below. There are several holes like these throughout the gutters, but these are the largest, about 1 inch in size, most are pinholes. It seems to me that the deterioration at the flange bend is due to A) the bending of the metal weakened it at this point, and B) the water runoff from the tile hits at that exact point. The house was built in 1925.

I have 2 solutions in mind and would greatly appreciate advice:
1) Replace the gutters at a cost of about $6,000 to fabricate.
2) Fabricate a flange and place over the existing flange and re-solder the leaks at the joints for a cost of about $1,000, and save $5,000.

The uncertainty that I have is since the gutters are deteriorating at the flange bend, how can I determine the integrity of the rest of the metal? The gutter channel feels and looks solid, but I donít have experience to determine condition. When will I be climbing up scaffold again to repair if I repair now vs replace? I donít think Iíll be able to do this in 10 yearsÖ too old. Got back aches now.

Advice is greatly appreciated.

Pic

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