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Realroofingbahamas (Realroofingbahamas)
New member
Username: Realroofingbahamas

Post Number: 9
Registered: 06-2014
Posted on Saturday, August 16, 2014 - 03:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

And thx milo too thats the most ive heard about those machines. Its tuff because the salt environment here as well and parts are very hard to get. There are some dinosaur 12guage brakes around here that just wont quit. Thats the type of quality i guess i need. Im very tempted to buy a combo machine but just dont feel its right for me. Thanks again for all the help.
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Realroofingbahamas (Realroofingbahamas)
New member
Username: Realroofingbahamas

Post Number: 8
Registered: 06-2014
Posted on Saturday, August 16, 2014 - 03:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Thanks for all the info kurtis! Just after i posted i saw some reviews that pointed out how all "combinations" are compromises that are never as good as separate items. So i decided on a tennismith slip roller. I cannot afford a kick shear right now but will begin saving. I get what youre saying about other methods im just starting to make a lot of these and really trying to speed up the process. Thanks all for your help.
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Kwhord (Kwhord)
Senior Member
Username: Kwhord

Post Number: 294
Registered: 10-2006


Posted on Thursday, August 14, 2014 - 08:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

also, instead of gearing up...

you can curl the pipe by many methods all acceptable and all pretty quick to produce for short vent stacks:
mallet and anvil
a dowel form
or bump it carefully on the brake;

for the form to run the rolled seam:
a bit of heavy steel pipe matching radi
a curved scraper tool like this:


even if you are just lapping/soldering; with the right forming tools you can get a curved flange with no breaks: full penetration and full sweat between both layers all the way through the curve.
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Kwhord (Kwhord)
Senior Member
Username: Kwhord

Post Number: 293
Registered: 10-2006


Posted on Thursday, August 14, 2014 - 08:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

nailed it milo

(Message edited by kwhord on August 14, 2014)
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Milo (Milo)
Member
Username: Milo

Post Number: 26
Registered: 05-2009
Posted on Thursday, August 14, 2014 - 06:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I got a chance to toy around with one of the "3 in 1" machines at an art copper smithing class I took a few years back. It seemed to work OK for copper (I think we used 24 oz in the class). It didnt perform any of the three duties it is called on (bending, shearing,rolling) as well as commercial machinery (slip roll, pan brake, stomp shear) but should be adequate for use with 20 oz copper. As as side note I liked the "braking" function the least as it is set up as press brake rather than a box/pan brake. I had trouble getting anything but very rough and inaccurate bends with the machine... Of course it could have been the operator rather than the machine.
You mentioned that you only like to buy "quality" machines. The machine itself had very rough castings, used cheap hardware and I would have a very hard time calling it "quality" and would wonder how long it could be in a commercial setting before it wore enough to make it unusable.(In fact i think if one had a machine shop it could be tweaked with and made into a good machine) After using it I postponed buying one and waited until I could find a used but in good shape slip roll, box brake, and shear. (all good old vintage made in USA machinery and bought at a great price). Unfortunately, as you mentioned you are not on the mainland and ths is probably not an option.

My advice is if you decide to buy a 3-1, shop around to find one a good price and with good price for shipping (they are basically all the same and just tagged by various companies). But I think that the price of shipping is going to kill you and the machine just aint worth it. I think you would be better off using a round metal pipe as a mandrell to form the pipes and either solder them or lock seam them using a gooving tool lock the seam.



Milo

(Message edited by milo on August 14, 2014)

(Message edited by milo on August 14, 2014)

(Message edited by milo on August 14, 2014)
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Kwhord (Kwhord)
Senior Member
Username: Kwhord

Post Number: 292
Registered: 10-2006


Posted on Thursday, August 14, 2014 - 04:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Never used that brand. If you weren't in BFE you can pick up old ones pretty easy from close out sales of old shops. With a slip roll and burring machine you can produce a pipe flashing with no solder, just a rolled seam.

You're getting a box pan brake with that tool too. And it's small enough to take to the site! I'd say go for
It.
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Realroofingbahamas (Realroofingbahamas)
New member
Username: Realroofingbahamas

Post Number: 4
Registered: 06-2014
Posted on Wednesday, August 13, 2014 - 08:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Hello all. So im looking to purchase a slip roller and i come across these "sbr" combination tools. Im only rolling 20oz copper for my pipe flashings. Im skeptical but curious if these combination machines are good enough. With duty and shipping, tools cost me double price to get here. I dont see myself using the break but I like the idea of getting a small shear along with my slip roller for the same price. Anyone have experience with these? Opinions? I try to only purchase quality tools. Id appreciate any suggestions or advise. Thank you.

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