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Old_school (Old_school)
Senior Member
Username: Old_school

Post Number: 970
Registered: 01-2009
Posted on Thursday, March 21, 2013 - 04:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I never ran the scroll bar all the way to the right. I hate it sometimes when the pictures and the writing run all the way to about 3 pages to the right.I see it now.
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Jafi (Jafi)
Member
Username: Jafi

Post Number: 22
Registered: 08-2009
Posted on Thursday, March 21, 2013 - 12:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

The Grace-Triflex stops at the ridge. The stucco you see is on the house next to this roof.
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Old_school (Old_school)
Senior Member
Username: Old_school

Post Number: 969
Registered: 01-2009
Posted on Wednesday, March 20, 2013 - 10:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

What am I seeing where the Grace Triflex stops?
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Jafi (Jafi)
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Username: Jafi

Post Number: 21
Registered: 08-2009
Posted on Wednesday, March 20, 2013 - 04:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

The wall that this section of roof runs into is brick, and the valley extends all the way to the brick wall. On the side in the picture, I only need to counter flash. On the opposite side of this ell roof I will use copper step flashing and counter flashing.
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Old_school (Old_school)
Senior Member
Username: Old_school

Post Number: 967
Registered: 01-2009
Posted on Saturday, March 16, 2013 - 09:27 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

The copper valley extends up beyond the grace though correct? At a 3/13 pitch, I am sure the copper will not leak and it looks like a neat job.

From the center line of the valley, it should be about 12 inches to the outside edge of the copper valley. Your slates will counter-flash the valley copper. How do you intend to flash and counter-flash the upper wall? It looks like stucco with vertical battens.
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Jafi (Jafi)
Junior Member
Username: Jafi

Post Number: 19
Registered: 08-2009
Posted on Friday, March 15, 2013 - 09:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

The valley extends all the way to the ridge in that section of roof. On the edge of the valley he did not bend the edge all the way over to lock the cleats in. He left them at about a 45 Deg. angle to act as a cant. He did not want to solder the seams and used a caulk in them (I hope). The pitch on the copper area is about 3/12. Originally it was slate, but it rotted most of the decking after 80 years. The area that I plan on re-doing in slate is what you see in the picture. That roof has a 6/12 pitch.
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Old_school (Old_school)
Senior Member
Username: Old_school

Post Number: 966
Registered: 01-2009
Posted on Friday, March 15, 2013 - 09:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

That is correct, but the picture is confusing. What kind of bend is that in the valley? Is is a shoulder to butt the slate against, or is it a slight "Vee" you are going to slate over? If that is a half "trough" the way it is bent will naturally lift the slates up. One slate turned sideways at the bottom should work though.
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Jafi (Jafi)
Junior Member
Username: Jafi

Post Number: 18
Registered: 08-2009
Posted on Friday, March 15, 2013 - 09:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

If I understand Old School, I only need one starter slate at the very bottom of the valley. Turned sideways as usual?
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Old_school (Old_school)
Senior Member
Username: Old_school

Post Number: 964
Registered: 01-2009
Posted on Friday, March 15, 2013 - 06:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

If it is what I think it is, you would strike lines parallel to the top wall down to the bottom of the valley and then just cut the slates parallel to the valley and make the rows line up to your horizontal lines. You can just start with a half slate at the bottom and that will act as your cant to tilt the slate.

Are they going to solder the seams on the copper roof? Is that a "vee" bent into the valley copper? Does the copper extend up beyond the Ice and water shield? You may consider installing one of the synthetic underlayments over the Grace or at least felt it before you slate. The slates will stick to grace and you will not be able to repair it.
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Jafi (Jafi)
Junior Member
Username: Jafi

Post Number: 17
Registered: 08-2009
Posted on Thursday, March 14, 2013 - 09:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I have posted a picture as requested, and could use some advice. Pictures or diagram of how to do it would be much appreciated.
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Jafi (Jafi)
Junior Member
Username: Jafi

Post Number: 14
Registered: 08-2009
Posted on Tuesday, March 12, 2013 - 07:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Picture added

Picture
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Old_school (Old_school)
Senior Member
Username: Old_school

Post Number: 961
Registered: 01-2009
Posted on Tuesday, March 12, 2013 - 07:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Pictures!!!
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Jafi (Jafi)
Junior Member
Username: Jafi

Post Number: 13
Registered: 08-2009
Posted on Tuesday, March 12, 2013 - 12:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

The rake of this section of roof runs into the valley about one foot from where the valley terminates. Do I cut an triangle piece of starter slate to place at the bottom? Also,do I need a starter course for all the other rows as they start out of the valley?
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Kwhord (Kwhord)
Senior Member
Username: Kwhord

Post Number: 249
Registered: 10-2006
Posted on Wednesday, February 13, 2013 - 03:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Jafi, photos would help :)

Is it two valleys resolving into each other or valley-to-rake?

Sometimes we tack a little copper cant if there is metalwork underneath the starter, just like a cant that has been formed into a box gutter pan itself. Cant should be just at the bottom, perpendicular to rain lines.

I think maybe you're asking if you need a cant parallel to the valley edge.. You shouldn't as long as your first course at the bottom has the proper cant, it will set the stage for the rest running up the valley.

If this valley is cutting across the "grid" really sharp, almost like an eave, then maybe, yeah. I'm thinking of a scenario where you have low pitch resolving into a steeper pitch, and in that case it almost becomes an eave...

PICS!
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Jafi (Jafi)
Junior Member
Username: Jafi

Post Number: 11
Registered: 08-2009
Posted on Tuesday, February 12, 2013 - 06:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I have a section of roof that begins in a valley. The bottom of the roof never makes it to the fascia. Do you need to run a cant stip up the length of the valley?

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