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Andrew (Andrew)
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Username: Andrew

Post Number: 6
Registered: 02-2013
Posted on Sunday, March 03, 2013 - 05:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Where else in the country is acid rain a problem? Or is it not affected by where in the country you are as much so as by what's around you in any given area?
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Spextheslater (Spextheslater)
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Username: Spextheslater

Post Number: 7
Registered: 05-2012
Posted on Sunday, January 27, 2013 - 05:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Aye,the code is the thickness in MM and weight per M2 Old School

http://www.calderlead.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/CALDER-16PP-PROD-BROCHURE .pdf

Calder is one of the better lead manufacturers here. Page 5 has all the install details,roll weights and tolerances we use.
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Old_school (Old_school)
Senior Member
Username: Old_school

Post Number: 949
Registered: 01-2009
Posted on Wednesday, January 23, 2013 - 09:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Is "code" the weight of the lead? I normally try and use 4# lead, that is 4#'s per square foot of material. You can get a lot of the lighter stuff, but it doesn't last.
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Spextheslater (Spextheslater)
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Username: Spextheslater

Post Number: 6
Registered: 05-2012
Posted on Wednesday, January 23, 2013 - 05:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Do you guys deal with lead much? For under slates,in closed valleys etc a lead soaker (bib),around Code 2 or 3 (to avoid kickup) treated with some patination oil before install, to avoid staining, would be a viable,long lasting solution. Exposed lead in exposed valleys,parrapets etc. would be around Code 6.
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Joe (Joe)
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Username: Joe

Post Number: 756
Registered: 07-2006
Posted on Saturday, January 12, 2013 - 12:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Depends on the gauge of the metal and whether it's coated or not.
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Old_school (Old_school)
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Username: Old_school

Post Number: 945
Registered: 01-2009
Posted on Thursday, January 10, 2013 - 09:01 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I talked to Tinner on the phone and as I said, when you install a heavy gauge aluminum or steel valley, the wear surface is not metal but baked enamel paint. That is the wear surface and it will last a long time, how long? who knows.

I know that Liam installed some sacrificial copper pieces at the wear points on those bell shaped roofs he did with slate two years ago. that is a good idea and something that we could all do on most any job we are working on if we wanted to.

Good points!
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Blue_sky_roofing (Blue_sky_roofing)
Senior Member
Username: Blue_sky_roofing

Post Number: 61
Registered: 05-2010
Posted on Wednesday, January 09, 2013 - 10:12 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I use bronze .032 Al. when I do a valley replacement. Usually it is old terne tin that has rusted away, but have replaced a fair amount of copper too that has worn paper thin and worse.
(My grandfather used to paint with Tinners Red both sides of terne tin before installing. Definitly increased the life of the valley!)

The 'jury is still out' on how long .032 last relative to slate.
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Tinner666 (Tinner666)
Senior Member
Username: Tinner666

Post Number: 85
Registered: 02-2009
Posted on Tuesday, January 08, 2013 - 10:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

100 miles. Others and myself have used and seen bibs used 30+ years under slate. .019 and thinner. I was going to use 20oz. copper until I opened this one up. All the 20 oz. is burned out.
I may switch to black aluminum, or a small hemmed piece of black 'trim' covering the steps.
I did that some years ago on a severe one and it worked fine. Once, I saw a new valley burning real bad after a year. I painted the darn thing black. At least it then matched the original black painted galv.
Fighting nature here, not a normal 'leak/no leak' situation.

Slate Roof Repairs, Richmond, Va.
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Old_school (Old_school)
Senior Member
Username: Old_school

Post Number: 942
Registered: 01-2009
Posted on Tuesday, January 08, 2013 - 09:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Tinner, how close to the ocean are you down there? I know that I have never seen any problems with for instance aluminum gutter and downspout up here due to any kind of rain and that would certainly be where it is concentrated! In 55 years of installing shingle roofs, I have never had a aluminum step flashings fail either. We don't use aluminum beneath slate, but I suppose you could if you at least used heavy aluminum. I don't know.
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Tinner666 (Tinner666)
Senior Member
Username: Tinner666

Post Number: 83
Registered: 02-2009
Posted on Tuesday, January 08, 2013 - 06:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

As some of you already know, copper goes south in a hurry under some slate roofs due to acid rain. And within a couple of years if used with EPDM.
I have a slate roof that all the steps and other flashing went south within 30 years, maybe less time.
Anybody have any real world, east coast data on aluminum flashing on a slate roof?

Slate Roof Repairs, Richmond, Va.

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