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Steve T
Posted on Wednesday, April 26, 2006 - 05:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I would like some advice on what type of soldering torch to buy?? Also I have a local metal man who is going to teach me the tricks of the trade but my question is, with solder flat lock roofs I have seen the way to make and lock pans like in the slate roof bible to edges that hook and lock each other. The way this man was taught and has done flat lock for years is to make pans with 2 sides as s shape bends with a long tail for a built in cleat and the other two sides are left flat.Then they slide together get pound down and solder. Is this just another way of doing it. Is it a right way???
(hope this makes sense)
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Dave Snyder
Posted on Thursday, April 27, 2006 - 01:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Steve - Flat Pan Roofing Has a very Simple but REQUIRED method of Soldering. Pan shapes and sizes have various options. Flat Pan Roofing Pans must have a folded hem bent on all sides of the pan for Interlocking. Each hem needs to be at least 5/8" wide to 3/4" generally. All of the hems are to be pre-tinned internally and externally. You will certainly need a SOLDERING IRON to Solder them. The pans are installed and interlocked with hammered seams. Then are Followed by a Consistant Full Bleed Soldering. Flat Pan Roofs are absolutly wonderful. Yet be sure to Ask many quetsions at this message board. A lot of Pros have been where you are at. Starting and Learning. Hopefully your metal man has done this correctly before. If not you should consider seriously in Hiring Someone to Either install this roof for you or hiring a copper craftsman to teach you to solder. A torch is useful at times but it is not recommended or Efficient for Flat Pan roofing. generallyy Speaking Solder Irons run 200 to 400 plus your gas tank ( propane or acytelyne ) At which you could more than likely sell it on one of the various mesage boards after you are finished. As I said be cautious to proceed without full certainty that you are prepared and able to complete this. Not trying to discourage you in the least bit. But as yourself I learned as many of us the hard way. If you get the facts your chances of success is great. But depending on the simplicity or complexity of your Copper Roof - there are gray areas and they usually are where your problems occour. ( No face nails covered by solder - Be sure to place the clips in the correct places installing the pans. Large areas or areas of flashing be cautious on expansion allowances. - BE 100% sure the pans are pre-tinned ) Good Luck - Dave Snyder 814 323 6374
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Dave Snyder
Posted on Tuesday, May 02, 2006 - 03:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

just checking message board.. wrote a couplr replies but couldn,t see them a day later - Dave
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Anonymous
Posted on Sunday, May 21, 2006 - 08:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

We are coppering a low pitch (3:12) porch roof with 16 ounce copper. Does anyone have any valuable suggestions for such a project?
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Anonymous
Posted on Monday, May 22, 2006 - 08:27 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

What type of questions do you have? There can be lots of suggestions. First you need to ask the questions you have then you'll get some handy advice from professionals who have done this before--ALOT. Do you need to know how to do the whole project or just parts of it you don't understand or know about?
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Anonymous
Posted on Monday, May 22, 2006 - 08:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

One more thing, does any water, ice and/or snow fall on this roof from a roof above it? If so, use 20oz. copper not 16oz. you will get alot of extra life out of roof. Maybe you need even 22oz. Are you going flat pan locked and soldered or standing seam? Drip edging? how many sides of this roof meet adjoining walls where flashing will be needed? Any penatrations in roof? Such as vent pipes, chimney's. Also are there any valley's. Alot to think about when doing this type of roofing especially when you or the customer wants it done 100% correct. What are you using for underlayment? Did you think about or have had any discussions about RED ROSIN PAPER, you need it for any and all copper applications. What type of soldering equipment do you have or have access to? What type of solder do you plan on using, do you know how to prep copper for soldering(correctly)? Answer some if not all of these questions and you'll get some good experienced advice.
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Anonymous
Posted on Monday, May 22, 2006 - 11:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

c:
c:IMG_1859.jpgIMG_1859.jpg
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Anonymous
Posted on Monday, May 22, 2006 - 11:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Sorry about that last post. The uploading feature is a little tricky to use.

At any rate, thank you Anonymous for your reply. Theoretically, there will be virtually no snow/ice falling on the porch from a roof above it. The contractor bought "Sure-Lok Standing Seam" 16 ounce copper. The preceding picture was for your review. There are no penetrations in the roof and there is one adjoining wall. Haven't heard anything about the soldering.

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