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Old_school (Old_school)
Senior Member
Username: Old_school

Post Number: 925
Registered: 01-2009
Posted on Saturday, November 24, 2012 - 11:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

It looks very nice indeed. congratulations!
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Catfeesh (Catfeesh)
Intermediate Member
Username: Catfeesh

Post Number: 37
Registered: 12-2011
Posted on Saturday, November 24, 2012 - 08:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Here's a pic of my finished roof.
I didnt' fall off my scaffolding, and the slate isn't leaking, so I'd call it a success!
A BIG thanks to everyone who provided advice. I got everything closed in just in time.hobo mansion
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Joe (Joe)
Moderator
Username: Joe

Post Number: 741
Registered: 07-2006
Posted on Monday, October 29, 2012 - 08:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

We use stainless roofing nails when we're nailing into roof decks that are so hard that copper nails bend. Old oak comes to mind.

We also recommend ring-shank gasketed stainless nails when nailing copper ridge if one doesn't want to use cleats.
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Omm (Omm)
Member
Username: Omm

Post Number: 28
Registered: 11-2010
Posted on Sunday, October 28, 2012 - 11:12 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I hope you never have to replace a slate on that roof, stainless nails do not bend when using a slate ripper. stay away from stainless its a waste of money!!!! We use stainless ring shank framing nails for roof brackets and thats it! Try ripping one slate out with a ripper and you will see what i mean. All the experienced roofers on this message board, and no one let you know. Its because no one usees them!
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Old_school (Old_school)
Senior Member
Username: Old_school

Post Number: 912
Registered: 01-2009
Posted on Saturday, October 27, 2012 - 04:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Cat, that will work. The thing I like about a shingle pallet is that you can knock off about half of the slate to make it lighter, but the slats still on the bottom really spread out the weight and you don't break any of the slates. That will work fine though and it is a lot easier than putting another jack part way up.
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Catfeesh (Catfeesh)
Intermediate Member
Username: Catfeesh

Post Number: 36
Registered: 12-2011
Posted on Friday, October 26, 2012 - 10:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Thanks Joe - I noticed the store was down this morning. Nails ordered.

Old School, my pallets were rotten, so I made this ladder up to get to the ridge. Works great, and seems safe.
I call it, "the sled". pallet
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Joe (Joe)
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Username: Joe

Post Number: 739
Registered: 07-2006
Posted on Friday, October 26, 2012 - 11:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

We sell the following stainless steel roofing nails at the Slate Roof Warehouse (Ph: 814-786-9085, M-F, 9-5 eastern time:

STAINLESS STEEL ROOFING NAILS, SMOOTH SHANK, 10 gauge
#38: 1.5 or 2.5 10 ga.(139/lb 1.5, 98/lb 2.5)-$7.95/lb
#174: 1.5 10 ga, 25 lb (3/8 head, 139/lb)-$169.00
#1231: St. St., 2, 25 lb, 10 ga, (3/8 head, 105/lb)-$169.00
#1232: St. St., 2.5, S810RNB 25 lb 10 ga., (3/8 head, 91/lb)-$169.00
#1233: St. St., 3, S1010RNB 25 lb 10 ga (3/8 head, 78/lb)-$169.00

STAINLESS STEEL ROOFING NAILS, RING SHANK, 10 gauge
#123R1: 10 ga, 2, S610ARNB 25 lb-$169.00
#123R2: 10 ga, 2.5, S810ARNB 25 lb-$169.00
#123R3: 3, 10 ga, S1010ARNB 25 lb-$169.00
#442: Ring Shank 1.5, 2.0 or 2.5 with washers, 25 lbs-$395.00
S10150RNWB, S10200RNWB, S10250RNWB
#443: Ring Sh. 2.5 S10250RNWBwith washers, by the lb-$19.00
#444: St. St. Ring Sh. Nails 2.5, S810ARNB by the pound-$7.95

The online store is going through some software updates right now (Friday, October 26th) and may be down.
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Catfeesh (Catfeesh)
Intermediate Member
Username: Catfeesh

Post Number: 32
Registered: 12-2011
Posted on Wednesday, October 24, 2012 - 09:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Thanks for the help guys, it's hugely appreciated. I spent the day in the drizzle filling the peak, and ripping strips of wood. I think I have it sorted out.

I don't think I'll go with an exposed nailer at the peak, it would be 1" wide material, and not a great base for the cleat to fasten into.

I do need to find longer stainless roofing nails somewhere, which is going to be a problem. 1-1/2" isn't going to cut it on the cap slates.ridge cross
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Olde_mohawk_masonry__historic_restoration (Olde_mohawk_masonry__historic_restoration)
Senior Member
Username: Olde_mohawk_masonry__historic_restoration

Post Number: 178
Registered: 04-2007
Posted on Wednesday, October 24, 2012 - 04:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Hey, Richard, it's just a detail I found online in about 30 seconds of searching. A reference point--not a directive. There are several ways to finish at the ridge; all will work. You don't need to re-invent the wheel, but if you want to blaze your own trail, get your enjoy on.
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Joe (Joe)
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Username: Joe

Post Number: 738
Registered: 07-2006
Posted on Wednesday, October 24, 2012 - 01:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

One Way To Install Slate Hips and Ridges
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Catfeesh (Catfeesh)
Intermediate Member
Username: Catfeesh

Post Number: 31
Registered: 12-2011
Posted on Wednesday, October 24, 2012 - 09:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Nice schematic (they should've drawn more headlap between the metal ridge and the underlying slate).

Doing it that way will require some fussy carpentry. The space between my two deck boards varies by 1/4" just due to variance in the lumber.

I'll see what I can do, worst case scenario I'll have an open space at the peak, (good for wasps and such) and the ridge cleats will be fastened between the cap slates. Everything should still be repair friendly.
ridge cross section
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Olde_mohawk_masonry__historic_restoration (Olde_mohawk_masonry__historic_restoration)
Senior Member
Username: Olde_mohawk_masonry__historic_restoration

Post Number: 177
Registered: 04-2007
Posted on Wednesday, October 24, 2012 - 02:59 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Ridge detail
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Old_school (Old_school)
Senior Member
Username: Old_school

Post Number: 910
Registered: 01-2009
Posted on Tuesday, October 23, 2012 - 10:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I would normally make the nailers butt at the top or depending on the pitch mitre them so they come to a point. If you keep them nice and straight it make it easy to lay the metal or the slate ridges off from them. No gap at the top either.
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Catfeesh (Catfeesh)
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Username: Catfeesh

Post Number: 30
Registered: 12-2011
Posted on Tuesday, October 23, 2012 - 09:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Ok, that makes sense.
I'll have to rip some super thin shim strips to go under the top course for it to lay flat, and I'll have to move the nailer higher to keep 3" of headlap under my ridge metal...but I think I can make it work.

A pallet would definitely put me at the right level, thanks for the idea!

ridge detail
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Old_school (Old_school)
Senior Member
Username: Old_school

Post Number: 909
Registered: 01-2009
Posted on Tuesday, October 23, 2012 - 06:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Take a look at your picture and imagine a thicker piece of wood lath where you have it and the slate being cut off at that point so that the top of the slate is even with the lath. You can now fasten the ridge to that lath with two or three nails to hold it from sliding sideways. It can be the same width as the partial slate you have on. I will normally install a piece of aluminum or copper about an inch shorter so that there is not a possibility of any water penetrating the open ridge point. The same setup will work to fasten the cleats for a metal ridge if that is what you want to do. You are close.

Hey, take a couple of wood pallets and knock off half of the slats to make them lighter. Lay them on the roof butting to the scaffold plank you have on the top tier and use them to set on and to support you. You will spread out your weight so you don't damage the slates and it will make it easy to be at the right height to work on the ridge. Kind of like putting a plank on thin ice to spread out the weight.
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Olde_mohawk_masonry__historic_restoration (Olde_mohawk_masonry__historic_restoration)
Senior Member
Username: Olde_mohawk_masonry__historic_restoration

Post Number: 176
Registered: 04-2007
Posted on Tuesday, October 23, 2012 - 05:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

That's what old school was talking about when he said most folks butt the last slates up to the wood nailer. The slated ridge would be nailed to that wood or, as in your case, the cleats for the copper ridge detail would be fastened to it. Details can be found quickly online with some Google searches.
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Catfeesh (Catfeesh)
Member
Username: Catfeesh

Post Number: 29
Registered: 12-2011
Posted on Tuesday, October 23, 2012 - 12:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

...was just thinking that nailing the cap slates through the top course (as in my photo) would be a repair nightmare. I'd likely have to take the ridge metal off to fix a slate in either course.
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Catfeesh (Catfeesh)
Member
Username: Catfeesh

Post Number: 28
Registered: 12-2011
Posted on Tuesday, October 23, 2012 - 09:34 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I have a space at the peak between my top two opposing sheathing boards which is why the slate isn't laying flat. I think I'll pull off the cant and try to fill that space. I should have sheathed the roof right up to the peak.

For the ridge, I have 8' lengths of 26 gauge stainless, 12" wide, bent into a 90�. I was going to fasten it down with Joe's cleat system.

I'm not sure if I can sit on the ridge while installing the cleats and ridge metal, I don't know if the metal and slate can absorb my weight, but I don't want to install another set of roof jacks.

I better get out of here and get at it while it's not raining.

ps. you slaters must be tough as nails. I've only installed a few squares and my body is ready die.



ridge cross section


cottage
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Old_school (Old_school)
Senior Member
Username: Old_school

Post Number: 908
Registered: 01-2009
Posted on Monday, October 22, 2012 - 09:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Normally you would butt the slates to the nailer and then fasten the ridges to it. A lot of drilling doing it that way and how do you intend to ridge it? Nice looking slate by the way.
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Catfeesh (Catfeesh)
Member
Username: Catfeesh

Post Number: 27
Registered: 12-2011
Posted on Monday, October 22, 2012 - 07:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I nailed on some leftover 3/8" cant strips on my ridge so that the top course would lay flat, but the 1-1/2" nails holding the cap slates are only biting into the deck about 3/4".
Is that ok?

cap slates

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