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Old_school (Old_school)
Senior Member
Username: Old_school

Post Number: 778
Registered: 01-2009
Posted on Wednesday, January 25, 2012 - 07:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

That works!
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Catfeesh (Catfeesh)
Junior Member
Username: Catfeesh

Post Number: 12
Registered: 12-2011
Posted on Wednesday, January 25, 2012 - 03:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

If I make the flashing wider, slate (A) would need to be nailed through the flashing...which should be alright depending on the position of the nail(?) It's an option.

Attached is the original concept with the revisions as suggested.

Thanks for the advice, my 100 yr roof would probably be a 10 day roof without your guys' help.chimney flashing revised1
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Old_school (Old_school)
Senior Member
Username: Old_school

Post Number: 777
Registered: 01-2009
Posted on Tuesday, January 24, 2012 - 10:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Could not hurt. If you do that, hem the two vertical edges as Liam suggested. Fold them all the way down instead of leaving them vertical and it will do the same thing. It stops the water from flowing horizontally and it will run vertically down onto the slate below.
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Catfeesh (Catfeesh)
Junior Member
Username: Catfeesh

Post Number: 11
Registered: 12-2011
Posted on Tuesday, January 24, 2012 - 06:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Thanks for the tips. Hiding the flashing with a couple of shaped slates would definitely look better.

Was just thinking..., unless the thickness of the flashing causes the slates to sit weird, I could widen it by 10" or so, which would add a lot of security without resorting to adhesives.
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Old_school (Old_school)
Senior Member
Username: Old_school

Post Number: 775
Registered: 01-2009
Posted on Tuesday, January 24, 2012 - 06:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

One other thing, Do not cut the slate tight to the pipe! Leave about 1/2 inch clearance all around the pipe. If you restrict the water at all, it will fight you and track sideways. If it is easier for the water to run off the flashing and slates than to run under it will never leak.

Good illustration
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Slate_man (Slate_man)
Senior Member
Username: Slate_man

Post Number: 699
Registered: 01-2007
Posted on Tuesday, January 24, 2012 - 11:17 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

It looks good and I don't think you will have a problem. If I where you the course between A and B should over lap the flashing too. Then if you are still concerned you can run a bead of adhesive under the slate or around the flashing or both. You could even bend up the flashing at a 90 depending on the slate thickness rigth where the head lap is.
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Catfeesh (Catfeesh)
New member
Username: Catfeesh

Post Number: 10
Registered: 12-2011
Posted on Tuesday, January 24, 2012 - 10:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I need to get someones opinion on my chimney pipe flashing plan.

Details:
12:12 roof pitch
10"x18" slate
3" headlap
7 1/2" exposure
20" wide x 25.5" long chimney flashing

Attached is a rough drawing, to scale.

Water traveling around the chimney can get under slate A. If it travels sideways enough, it could get above/behind slate B (the top of which is (C).

It looks like water would have to travel sideways 5+" at 45° or steeper to cause a leak.

Am I doing things all wrong, or how does this look?

Thanks for your help!
chimney pipe flashing

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