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Tinner666 (Tinner666)
Senior Member
Username: Tinner666

Post Number: 78
Registered: 02-2009
Posted on Friday, August 19, 2011 - 10:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

"Ok then you say to install a copper flashing that is 14" long. Lay my first 8 X 16 ridge stone then lay another flashing piece over the stone to cover the nail holes that I drill in it and nail utilizing only the back two inches of the 16" length of stone. Is that the idea?"

16" long. I missed your lenght and thought it ws 14". No drilling necessary. Lay the metal in place. Put a second hole about 2" from the top of the slate on the side clsest to the apex. Nail into the 1x4 utilizing the two topmost holes. Lay another 16" soaker, then cover it with salte and nail the slate. They lap together like step flashing.
I hope this isn't too vague. I'm a bit under the weather tonight.

(Message edited by tinner666 on August 19, 2011)

Slate Roof Repairs, Richmond, Va.
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Lmroc (Lmroc)
Member
Username: Lmroc

Post Number: 25
Registered: 06-2011
Posted on Friday, August 19, 2011 - 09:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Thanks so much for the imput!!!

I figured the 7" fall from the ridge but I might have to add a 1"inch across the ridge because I see that the distance across at the very top is going to be some distance X (unkown because I did not install the back side 1 X 4 + slates yet. Of course if I get a true peak out of the copper flashing then maybe I can go with wider flashing maybe 7.5"-8.5" going down both sides of the ridge and they will cover the nails enough as you suggest.

Ok then you say to install a copper flashing that is 14" long. Lay my first 8 X 16 ridge stone then lay another flashing piece over the stone to cover the nail holes that I drill in it and nail utilizing only the back two inches of the 16" length of stone. Is that the idea?

So impressed with you guys on this forum to respond to a DIY. I really love my home and this is the bucket list for me....to slate my 1925 built english Tudor.

Oh here's to not kicking that bucket too soon.
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Tinner666 (Tinner666)
Senior Member
Username: Tinner666

Post Number: 77
Registered: 02-2009
Posted on Friday, August 19, 2011 - 09:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Notching it was good. The metal needs to also cover those nails in the last field course by 3"!

Opinions vary, but here's mine;
Your copper is supposed to be about 18" long by by at least 14" wide, then bent down the center end to end. Starting at the gable, lay the first piece of copper on the ridge. Then, either butt to slates together on opposing sides of the ridge, or 'rooster' them with one side 1" higher than the other.
With two nails holes on one side of the slates, nail them into the 1x4 with about 6" exposure. Lay your next piece of copper in place leaving 6" of the cap slate exposed and hiding the cap nails.
!!!! When roostering, you put the low side on first, then the copper, then the high side!!!!

Continue across the roof alternating between cap and soakers. The copper soakers hide the nails from the weather and you'll never have to caulk or maintain the ridge.

(Message edited by tinner666 on August 19, 2011)

Slate Roof Repairs, Richmond, Va.
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Lmroc (Lmroc)
Member
Username: Lmroc

Post Number: 24
Registered: 06-2011
Posted on Friday, August 19, 2011 - 07:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Ok did not find any info on the Ridge slate being notched for the wood strip but I thought it would help hide the wood at the peak.

I have it overhanging 1" and underneath it is my 20 oz copper drip edge detail. The copper drip edge runs back onto the roof deck 4"

Let me know if this was a bad idea.Ridge slate notched at end

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