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Anonymous
Posted on Monday, June 27, 2005 - 02:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Hired a firm to replace copper flashing on four closed valleys. Slater has started on first valley but isn't replacing the copper flashing by the book (Slate Roof Bible).
Slater did the first valley in two sections. Removed the slate starting at the middle of the valley and worked to the top. He worked a full day on one half of the eighteen foot valley. The pitch is 16:12. As he replaced each section of flashing he installed each row of slate, as he worked upwards he covered the headlap of the slate with the next upper piece of flashing. Is this a proper method? The old flashing was installed (1929) in rectangles not diamonds and each section was overlapped going up the valley.
I was under the impression from the man at the firm who gave me the bid the flashing would be replaced per the book which Mr. Jenkins says take all slate off the valley, number them, install all flashing, then reinstall the slates. Won't this procedure make it very difficult to replace any slate in the valleys at a later date. Is the slater doing this because it is a quicker method?

Any suggestions on this problem.
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robin
Posted on Monday, June 27, 2005 - 09:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I think numbering is more interesting when u have an open valley.. system of working might vary in different areas and even by different slaters.. closed valleys normally should have flashing each row of slate.. , open valleys not,but if u want to renew, with using all old slates again, u can try numbering. think the numbering isn't very much used on a closed slate valley. But well, that's europe than :-)
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Anonymous
Posted on Tuesday, June 28, 2005 - 01:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Robin,

Not sure what the point you were trying to get across. I do know enough that slate must be numbered when removed from a closed or open valley so you can put the slate back from whence it came.

I am questioning the procedure of installing the flashing. Is it correct to install the flashing so the bottom of each piece of copper flashing overlaps the headlap of slate below instead of installing all valley flashing flush to the boards as it goes up the valley? The slater said this procedure was so the filler slate would stay in place since some are to small to nail.

Again Joe Jenkins stated in the book NEVER stand on a slate roof. The guys doing the work stood on the shed dormer to reach the scafolding for the top part of the valley and broke several slate. Said they would repair it. Said you can stand on a slate foor if you know how.

This is so agravating to pay alot of money for repairs and then have more slate broken. How do I tell these neanderthals not to stand on the slate.
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robin
Posted on Thursday, June 30, 2005 - 12:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

strange procedure.. but it's possible that's how it was done.. if they are too small to nail they should take a larger slate to do it. Normally it should be nailed.. We never number, but work with a standard size.. We make a model first that fits in the valley and work towards the model. Ofcours, when u renew the valley and u want to save all old slates or can't find same slates to repair, numbering and handling the same way is the only option..

If the guys are experienced on a roof u shouldn't worry that much on standing on it.. working on a valley there isn't much choice.. as long as they know what they do and they have some spares to repair in case they break one, it is possible.. Can't have them hang upside down on a crane neither, right.. They might using hooks or ladders to get there, instead of walking over shed dormer! but for the work itselfs sometimes u need to put your foot on the roof...
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admin
Posted on Sunday, July 03, 2005 - 02:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Closed valleys require smaller sections of flashings that are installed as the slates are reinstalled (one piece of flashing per course of slate). The valley flashing on closed valleys is not replaced in the same manner as on an open valley. It is illustrated in the 2nd edition of the Slate Roof Bible, page 271. Although diamond-shaped flashing sections are often used, rectangular ones would work as well.

The shed roof problem could be eliminated by putting a hook ladder on the shed roof and standing on that.

We would never replace an 18' valley over two days. It's an easy one day job for two experienced slaters. I have personally replaced a 34' open valley in a single day working alone (on a church).

Joe Jenkins
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dom
Posted on Friday, July 29, 2005 - 06:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

My slate roof has closed valleys. The roofer a used long sheet of copper instead of pieces under each row of slate. I have had some ice daming. Could this be the problem?
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Joe Jenkins
Posted on Saturday, July 30, 2005 - 10:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

The valleys were probably installed improperly. They should be removed and re-installed. Closed valleys are best installed with step flashing. A continuous piece of flashing can *theoretically* work if done properly, but better to step the flashing unless the installer really knows what he is doing.

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