STEVE TARAN JR
|Posted on Tuesday, February 15, 2005 - 07:13 pm: ||
WE ARE INSTALLING A SLATE ROOF WHERE COPPER DRIP EDGE ON THE RAKE AND EVE IS BEING INSTALLED. THE TROUBLE IS THEY DO NOT WANT TO SEE THE CANT STRIP SO WE DO THE EVE THEN THE RAKE DRIP BUT THE RAKE DRIP EDGE SEEMS TO LIFT UP AND NOT FIT TIGHT DUE TO THE CANT AND EVE DRIP. SHOULD I SNIP IT AND BEND IT WHERE IT MEETS THE CANT STRIP ?? ANY IDEAS
|Posted on Tuesday, February 15, 2005 - 08:39 pm: ||
Hi Steve-If you are installing drip edge on the rake & eave & at the same time you want to cover the lath strip(cant strip) at the eave of roof-Install your cant strip - next install your eave drip edge over your cant strip - then install your rake drip edge - do not drive your nails to tight where the drip edges meet at the eave,you will have a slight taper here because of the cant strip ,but it really is not noticable once the roof is installed,let the drip edge sort of float, you could also add a wood shim from the cant strip up the eave under the drip edge(typical wood shim that you use for doors & windows). ...Or you could just bend a piece of copper channel 3/8" thick with a 1"+ flange to take the place of the wood cant - you would install your drip edges first than your channel on top to act as the cant - Or you can cut slate 3 to 4 inches wide by however long to use for a cant,Install drip edge-install slate pcs. as cant- then install starter slate- we usally try to cover our cant strip or use one of the methods above. Hope this helps. Ron
|Posted on Wednesday, February 16, 2005 - 05:26 am: ||
Ron's first method is the same way I prefer.I set my rake drip edge overhang into my eaves drip overhang to help hold the two tight.This is usually only 3/4" or 1" but helps hold the pieces together.