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Threedogs (Threedogs)
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Username: Threedogs

Post Number: 9
Registered: 03-2010
Posted on Wednesday, March 31, 2010 - 08:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

This is the best I could figure out. I'll do things differently with the next section of ridge, but needed to feel good that this section will hold it's own. Did a saddle, with 7 1/2" exposure on a 12" slate. I bedded the slates in a acrylic polymer reinforced mortar, then will use silicon ( you can see some slates already done ) on the peak for added waterproofing. No flashing was used. I feel confident the ridge is secure and should hold up 50 years and hopefully much longer. I won't be around then, so someone else can put on some ridge iron if needed. Any critiquing is welcome.



(Message edited by threedogs on March 31, 2010)
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Threedogs (Threedogs)
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Username: Threedogs

Post Number: 8
Registered: 03-2010
Posted on Monday, March 29, 2010 - 05:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

s.m.thanks for the tip. I would have never thought of that. I'll give it a shot.
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Slate_man (Slate_man)
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Username: Slate_man

Post Number: 580
Registered: 01-2007
Posted on Sunday, March 28, 2010 - 06:27 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I cut two cousres of smaller slates to build up that gap. Alittle one as a kicker or cant strip, then the other is the stater slate. Just like starting you roof.
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Old_school (Old_school)
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Username: Old_school

Post Number: 425
Registered: 01-2009
Posted on Saturday, March 27, 2010 - 08:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

If it won't leak I would leave it. Filling it with tar would make a heck of a mess.
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Threedogs (Threedogs)
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Username: Threedogs

Post Number: 7
Registered: 03-2010
Posted on Saturday, March 27, 2010 - 04:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

ok, I've decided the best way for me to fix the ridge is to put a saddle over the existing ridge slates. It's too much work to pry the slates loose because there siliconed.

My question is: there is a gap under the saddle slates on one end, and do you fill that void with tar, or mortar or just leave the gap alone. My thought is to fill it with mortar or roofing tar, but would like to know what guys in the trade do.

Thank everyone for your help....
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Dennis_m_crookshanks (Dennis_m_crookshanks)
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Username: Dennis_m_crookshanks

Post Number: 5
Registered: 09-2009
Posted on Wednesday, March 24, 2010 - 10:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Here's an idea.

<img>

[IMG]http://www.roofingcontractorreview.com/gallery/d/515-3/Slate+roof+ridge+detail.j pg[/IMG]

Two rows, staggered. Alternate lapping of the top edge. Brass screws and washers.

(Message edited by dennis_m_crookshanks on March 24, 2010)
My pic doesn't show. But you can follow the link.

(Message edited by dennis_m_crookshanks on March 24, 2010)
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Threedogs (Threedogs)
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Username: Threedogs

Post Number: 6
Registered: 03-2010
Posted on Tuesday, March 23, 2010 - 05:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Actually the green slates had algae on them. Some pretty slimy. There starting to wash up now, but have only been on the roof since last fall. I'm going to take the ridge slates off and run a line on the top course to keep the exposure even. Then run a ridge saddle.

Maybe Joe could make a suggestion. I'm open to more ideas to get it right.
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Threedogs (Threedogs)
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Username: Threedogs

Post Number: 4
Registered: 03-2010
Posted on Monday, March 22, 2010 - 10:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Originally I had about 44 squares to pick from all being the same color, but I went through the pile and picked out about 5 squares of the worst stuff and took it back to the seller who traded it for some really nice slates which had a slight green-hue but really dense like the others. So last year I mixed some of that batch on the roof, and that's what you see in the picture. All the slates are drilled and countersunk. This portion of the roof actually has a nicer depth compared to the other side which is all one color and sheen.

S.M. Are you suggesting I put a copper ridge cap on ? I'd rather remove the slates and start over and do it right. There's a lot of wood on the peak to nail into. Why couldn't I take the ridge off and run a second nail in the top course ( it only has one in the slot ) the run a wider saddle ? I'd have to drill through the two lower slates because they both run to the peak, but nothing too difficult. I had thought of putting some type of ridge tiles on. Nothing ornate, just something to do the job. That would be my idea solution I think assuming they will last as long as the slates. Do you have a lead on any good recycled tiles. The pitch is 10-12 or 11-12 I can't remember right now. Money's tight so couldn't pay the long dollar.
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Slate_man (Slate_man)
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Username: Slate_man

Post Number: 579
Registered: 01-2007
Posted on Monday, March 22, 2010 - 07:16 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Tom, alot of building at one time used nothing on miter hips, later maybe 30 years later they send up a tar guy, because it leaking they tar the hips all up, then about 20 to 30 later they find a real slate roof, not the tar guy and we tear of the tar the slate and install copper flashing. So we all know that the silicone will last, the way you have it maybe longer, but at some point it going to leak. Simple copper cap!!
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Slate_man (Slate_man)
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Username: Slate_man

Post Number: 578
Registered: 01-2007
Posted on Monday, March 22, 2010 - 07:08 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Walter what tells you that is from Brownville rather then Monson. Is it the greenish brown?
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Walter_musson (Walter_musson)
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Username: Walter_musson

Post Number: 179
Registered: 07-2006
Posted on Monday, March 22, 2010 - 06:03 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Tom ,
Truth be told , those are actually from Brownville , Me . just east of Monson .
Nice looking job.
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Threedogs (Threedogs)
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Username: Threedogs

Post Number: 3
Registered: 03-2010
Posted on Sunday, March 21, 2010 - 09:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Thanks for the input guys. Yes, it's Monson and my house. I know the ridge slates are running out but plenty of headlap. The 2nd course down runs exactly to the peak ( I know not the typical way ) The top course also ran exactly to the peak and used 1 nail in the slot ( I know not typical ) so before nailing I siliconed the slates for added strength ( because of 1 nail ) and to seal the peak. Then decided to cut 5" ridge slated because I didn't want to punch nails in the two courses below, and didn't want too big of a slate because the silicone might not hold something too heavy in the long run.

the way I've got it set up the peak is very strong with three slates deep on each side. My concern was how long would the silicone last holding the ridge slates on. Not as long as I had hoped probably. And no leaks anywhere on the roof. I've already laid 20 + squares ( all carried up by hand and laid without roof jacks....just ladders running from scaffold to the peak and not a cracked slate in the bunch ) Head lap is 4" ( those are 20's) and side lap is plenty.

I'm going to have to think about it. I might bite the bullet and pry the ridge off, then put a second nail in the course below, then maybe try and put on a saddle with long nails. I'll most likely use a saddle ridge with a nailer on the rest of the peak, but needed to figure out what to do with this section before I go on. Monson put up last year.
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Slate_man (Slate_man)
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Username: Slate_man

Post Number: 577
Registered: 01-2007
Posted on Sunday, March 21, 2010 - 06:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Well it looks like used Monson to me with some old shadow line! As far as the rigde, seeing that the rigde slate are not over lapping, (not sure if there is flashing under these slate in the picture). If its your house or if it was migth I would add a copper cap to the rigde. It will look good, it would be quicker to fix this way. I would get the cap made to cover just the top cousre or hlf way down the second. If you go this way you would not need the last course, in the place you haven't done.

To do the slate rigde rigth you would need that nailer that old school was taking about. So to fix this area 2 course should come off.

I sure its not the first this has been done! The slate was a great pick, it what I put on my house.
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Old_school (Old_school)
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Username: Old_school

Post Number: 422
Registered: 01-2009
Posted on Saturday, March 20, 2010 - 10:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Are you having fun?

When everything else fails, ask questions first!
Does it leak? Normally you would put a nailer on the ridge and then nail the ridge slates into that. I will install a metal ridge beneath the slates to shed the water and the ridges become a cosmetic covering that will not leak because the metal beneath it is sheding the water. You should get Joe's book and read about several different ways to do a ridge.

You can also get a metal rolled ridge to cover the top. Diffferent strokes! It looks like you have lost your headlap on the last few slates on the right side of the picture. Measure and strike lines first. Good luck
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Threedogs (Threedogs)
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Username: Threedogs

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Registered: 03-2010
Posted on Saturday, March 20, 2010 - 05:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I've been re slating my house for the past few years and finally got to the ridge. I'm not sure why I did this ( too much sun I think ) but instead of nailing the ridge slates, I cut them down to about 5 inches ( had plenty of head lap ) then covered the entire bottom with silicone and used gorilla tape to hold them in place until they set.

I did that on 25 feet of the ridge, and am wondering if I should not do it on the remaining ridge. The issue is how long will it take until the silicone ceases to adhere. 50 years maybe ? That's not long enough, and no one really knows. Should I take down the slates and start over ( that would be a lot of work, or should I let it go, and not do that on the next part of the ridge, or do you think what I've done is alright. ( I'm sure you probably don't ) thanks for the help. ridge Picture

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