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Old_school (Old_school)
Senior Member
Username: Old_school

Post Number: 290
Registered: 01-2009
Posted on Monday, November 30, 2009 - 08:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I was down to the Factory where they make most of the high tech caulk this afternoon. It is just south of Kalamazoo, and some of the newer high tech caulks they have are incredible. For everything from pitch pockets to caulking reglets to joining two pieces of metal. We have caulked aluminum gutter end caps for decades and never thought anything of it. Do a good job of flashing and let the caulk do its work.
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Branden_wilson (Branden_wilson)
Advanced Member
Username: Branden_wilson

Post Number: 48
Registered: 03-2008
Posted on Monday, November 30, 2009 - 06:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

i'm certainly not knockin the idea, just don't have any experience with it. heck, i'm forced to use what we call "bull" (asphalt roof cement) in places that would make most of you guys cringe. i used to cringe myself at first but after using it for several years i have developed a lot of trust in my technique. i use acrylic elastomeric caulks on concrete quite often and am extremely impressed so far.
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Old_school (Old_school)
Senior Member
Username: Old_school

Post Number: 289
Registered: 01-2009
Posted on Sunday, November 29, 2009 - 03:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Branden, there is just a bit of oil on the copper when it is in the pallet. The washes off quickly when exposed to the air and elements. When you flux the copper, the acid cleans it off before you solder.

Some of the newer caulks are incredible. You can caulk two pieces together and when they set, it is very difficult to pull them apart. The caulk remains flexible too. I know that Dura-link is like that. Especially at a shed point, I would not be afraid to use caulk. just my opinion now!
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Branden_wilson (Branden_wilson)
Advanced Member
Username: Branden_wilson

Post Number: 46
Registered: 03-2008
Posted on Sunday, November 29, 2009 - 10:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

hey john, i was told growing up that because of oils in the copper, caulk doesn't form a permanent bond with copper. i just always believed this and have always installed my copper flashings with lead rope and soldered seams, even back when i did asphalt. i have never had anyone agree with me on this and have seen guys who i even respect a lot put caulk on copper. i'd love to find out the truth here although i know i'll still never caulk copper, i just like to know what the heck i'm talking about!
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Old_school (Old_school)
Senior Member
Username: Old_school

Post Number: 285
Registered: 01-2009
Posted on Tuesday, November 24, 2009 - 12:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Run your slate and step flashing up the wall to the corner. On the last step flashing, make sure and bend it at a 90 degree angle around the inside corner. allow for the pitch of the roof so that the copper is always flush with the vertical wall. Run your copper top wall flashing right to the inside corner. You can either solder that joint or you can caulk it if you like. The water is always flowing away from it and caulk would work fine if you would like.
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Bpeterson (Bpeterson)
New member
Username: Bpeterson

Post Number: 3
Registered: 11-2009
Posted on Monday, November 23, 2009 - 12:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

These photos are of a ridge that ends at a vertical wall. I am talking about a shed roof that ends at a vertical wall that also has a chimney attached to the vertical wall. My question is how to flash the inside corner created by the chimney and wall
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Tinner666 (Tinner666)
Advanced Member
Username: Tinner666

Post Number: 45
Registered: 02-2009
Posted on Friday, November 20, 2009 - 10:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Cut and ready for scissor-lock.






Set them in place and nail, or cleat into position. They'll never shift from each other. Tiny dab of caulk will do ya.




<A HREF="http://www.albertsroofing.com" TARGET="_blank">Slate Roof Repairs, Richmond, Va.</A>
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Bpeterson (Bpeterson)
New member
Username: Bpeterson

Post Number: 2
Registered: 11-2009
Posted on Friday, November 20, 2009 - 09:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Thanks. I will use the nailer technique. I tried to include a picture, but it wouldn't work because it used too much memory. This is a brick chimney and a brick vertical wall, with the chinmey attached to the wall. There are no examples of this in the book. Does the chimney flashing bend around the inside corner,and then is covered by the apron flashing on the wall? Or do you flash the wall first with the wall flashing making the bend on the chimney before being covered by the chimney flashing? Maybe either way works equally. I would think that the top of the corner would need a small piece of flashing inserted in the mortar gap to act as a roof. Is that right?
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Old_school (Old_school)
Senior Member
Username: Old_school

Post Number: 280
Registered: 01-2009
Posted on Thursday, November 19, 2009 - 09:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I would normally put a nailer there to have something to fasten the slate too. You can drill through if you want to, but it is more work.

Prebend the copper flashing in a brake at the angle of the roof, with the bottom "hemmed" over and a slight "kick" on the bottom. Fasten the copper to the wall with copper nails, and if you have the correct angle bent into the metal it will hold tightly to the roof. Joe has some pictures of the way he does his chimney flashings in the bible and they will work just fine. You want to make sure that the water is flowing past the corner when you install the flashings; and not running into the corner. Good luck!
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Bpeterson (Bpeterson)
New member
Username: Bpeterson

Post Number: 1
Registered: 11-2009
Posted on Thursday, November 19, 2009 - 04:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I plan to do a small project and I've never used slate before. The slate size is 12 X 22, and there will be five courses. the distance from the bottom to the virtical wall is 42.5 inches. The exposure will be 8.5 inches. My question is the slate for the forth course will need to be cut to 17 inches to reach the wall on the top. Do I make it shorter and put some wood in there to have something to nail the last slate course which will be 8.5 inches, or do I drill through it after placing the top slate in place?
I bought "The Slate Roof Bible" but I need to put flashing on an inside corner of the chimney and virtical wall on this shed roof. I don't know how to do this.

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