|Posted on Monday, July 19, 2004 - 01:13 pm: ||
I am planning on a copper seam roof over a small bay window. This section of roof will be a 2:12 pitch at the most. My question is concerning the method of heating the joint and which solder to use. Jenkins has lead solder on your site, but can you use leadless solder. Also, I read on your web site not to use and open flame to heat a joint due to the possibility of the felt paper igniting. What do you heat the joint with if not a butane torch? Would a hot air gun used to remove paint get the copper hot enough to melt the solder?
Tony, Erie PA
|Posted on Tuesday, July 20, 2004 - 09:41 am: ||
You could, as far as I know, avoid the soldering by doing a double-lock standing seam with a butyl rubber strip seal between the over- and under-cloaks. The 2:12 slope is about 9.5 degrees and all the historical-recent UK and US literature I've read over during the past month indicates that sealed double-lock is OK at this gentle slope. I've got 1.5 squares at the same slope on my own house and will be doing 1.5" d-l ss this summer. A good short (3 min) video to look at is available on Bob Vila's website (search for copper roof) where they show a low-slope porch roof being done in New England.
|Posted on Thursday, July 22, 2004 - 01:29 pm: ||
Tin solder is available from Follansbee as an alternative to lead/tin solder.
You have to use a soldering iron to solder the joints. A hot air gun will not work.