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Old_school (Old_school)
Senior Member
Username: Old_school

Post Number: 176
Registered: 01-2009
Posted on Wednesday, July 08, 2009 - 08:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

There are a LOT of very smart people here!
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Cvol (Cvol)
New member
Username: Cvol

Post Number: 6
Registered: 01-2008
Posted on Wednesday, July 08, 2009 - 09:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Thanks for the suggestion old school! After discussing this with the project team, the intent is to match existing. The spec will be revised to reflect this.
I appreciate the input from you and the forum.
This is a great resource and I'm going to share it with others here in my office!
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Old_school (Old_school)
Senior Member
Username: Old_school

Post Number: 174
Registered: 01-2009
Posted on Tuesday, July 07, 2009 - 09:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

That will work. If you are going to use the grace along the bottom, I would cover it with the felt before you put the slates on. The felt will keep the slates from sticking to the grace and make it possible to repair them at some time in the future.

For 18 - 20 inch slates, 5 inches is too narrow. I would use 10's 11's 12's and maybe 13's. as far as width goes. They have to be that wide to get the proper ofset from each other.
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Cvol (Cvol)
New member
Username: Cvol

Post Number: 5
Registered: 01-2008
Posted on Tuesday, July 07, 2009 - 09:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Thanks for the response Old school, I plan on indicating a 3/8" cant at the eave for the starter slate. The slate is to match the existing slate on the rest of the building. Spec's indicate random mixing of slate with the slates being 5"-10" wide x 18-20" long. Thickness varies between 1/4" - 1/2" so I figured splitting the difference and use a 3/8" furring strip at the starter course. Still plan to use ice & water shield over the eave of the plank and lap 15# felt for the rest of the roof.
Is this reasonable? See attached for existing roof slateExisting slate roof circa 1939Existing slate roof circa 1939 (2)
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Old_school (Old_school)
Senior Member
Username: Old_school

Post Number: 169
Registered: 01-2009
Posted on Monday, July 06, 2009 - 07:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

It should be ok. If you hit one of the edges, just punch another hole higher to nail it in. A layer of wood over tyhe top would be fine too, but maybe not necessary
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Cvol (Cvol)
New member
Username: Cvol

Post Number: 4
Registered: 01-2008
Posted on Monday, July 06, 2009 - 05:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Hello, I'm looking for advice on a new small slate shed roof over an entry/exitway. Approximate roof size is 9'-4" wide x 12'-0" long. The roof deck is an 18" wide cementitious concrete plank 2" thick with t & g metal edging around it's perimeter manufactured by Martin Fireproofing. The plank bears on steel beams. You can nail/screw into this product however I wonder if a base layer of 3/4" plywood on top would be needed? I'm concerned that the metal edging of the plank will interfere with the nailing of the slate.
Thoughts?

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