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Joe (Joe)
Senior Member
Username: Joe

Post Number: 371
Registered: 07-2006
Posted on Wednesday, March 04, 2009 - 04:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

We also sell acetylene torches (http://josephjenkins.com/store/product.php?productid=16319&cat=0&page=1).
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Walter_musson (Walter_musson)
Senior Member
Username: Walter_musson

Post Number: 129
Registered: 07-2006
Posted on Monday, March 02, 2009 - 09:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Eric,
Heres a link to the Co. I use.
http://www.ascotorch.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=ASCO&Category_C ode=HTAK
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Braymer (Braymer)
Senior Member
Username: Braymer

Post Number: 90
Registered: 09-2008
Posted on Monday, March 02, 2009 - 09:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Yes, thanks Walter. I have a bunch of irons and torches that I use, but am deciding on the right constant heated unit to get - I just want to get one of those for now. Thank alot guys, this helps.
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Walter_musson (Walter_musson)
Senior Member
Username: Walter_musson

Post Number: 128
Registered: 07-2006
Posted on Friday, February 27, 2009 - 04:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Eric,
I don't see how you could make do with just one iron if you do a lot of different work , but it might be possible.
If you want the best constantly heated iron for all around work then my choice would definately be acetylene fuel.
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Braymer (Braymer)
Senior Member
Username: Braymer

Post Number: 88
Registered: 09-2008
Posted on Friday, February 27, 2009 - 03:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Thank you Kurtis, I like those, I am still trying to decide between propane or acetylene.
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Kwhord (Kwhord)
Senior Member
Username: Kwhord

Post Number: 174
Registered: 10-2006
Posted on Friday, February 27, 2009 - 12:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I gave up the hand irons for an express torch at the beginning of this year and I love it. The constant heat is great plus it doesn't waste as much fuel. I still use my old insto-gas furnace to melt scrap solder for my tinning trough.
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Braymer (Braymer)
Senior Member
Username: Braymer

Post Number: 87
Registered: 09-2008
Posted on Friday, February 27, 2009 - 09:12 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Thanks, I do have some old hand irons- but if you were terrible at soldering like I am and had to get only one iron, what would you suggest?
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Walter_musson (Walter_musson)
Senior Member
Username: Walter_musson

Post Number: 127
Registered: 07-2006
Posted on Thursday, February 26, 2009 - 05:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Eric,
For chimney pans and small or tight areas I use hand irons of many different shapes and weights. I heat these in a propane fired plumbers furnace.
For flat seam work or aprons or other large areas I use an acetylene fired constantly heated iron by ASCO using a plumbers B tank for the supply.
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Braymer (Braymer)
Senior Member
Username: Braymer

Post Number: 84
Registered: 09-2008
Posted on Thursday, February 26, 2009 - 04:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Walter, what torch or iron do you use mostly?
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Walter_musson (Walter_musson)
Senior Member
Username: Walter_musson

Post Number: 126
Registered: 07-2006
Posted on Thursday, February 26, 2009 - 04:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Kurtis,
Yes I left the old lead counter flashings since this is an apartment house they didn't want to go for new lead or copper.
Most all chimneys in our area have lead as counter flashings.
When I thru flash I use either copper or lead coated copper.
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Kwhord (Kwhord)
Senior Member
Username: Kwhord

Post Number: 172
Registered: 10-2006
Posted on Thursday, February 26, 2009 - 07:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Hey Walter, is the old counter-flashing on that chimney made of lead? Pretty neat, I've never seen one of those around here.
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Walter_musson (Walter_musson)
Senior Member
Username: Walter_musson

Post Number: 125
Registered: 07-2006
Posted on Thursday, February 26, 2009 - 05:32 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Tinner,
Nice looking standing seam work !
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Tinner666 (Tinner666)
Member
Username: Tinner666

Post Number: 23
Registered: 02-2009
Posted on Wednesday, February 25, 2009 - 07:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Pretty neat. I've heard of some peolple soldering them, but never did it, unless I was doing a copper roof.. Of course, on copper roofs, I never have any soldering to do on the fronts. I 'pull' my roofs from the obstructions, and run full leanght panels, from the eave to the rear corners. Then fill in the middles.

Matter of fact, here's a link to a copper job I did.
[url]http://rcs.si-sv2628.com/show_album_photo.asp?userid=30&AlbumID=92&file=593&s=0[/url]

Slate Roof Repairs
<A HREF="http://www.albertsroofing.com" TARGET="_blank">Slate Roof Repairs</A>
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Walter_musson (Walter_musson)
Senior Member
Username: Walter_musson

Post Number: 124
Registered: 07-2006
Posted on Wednesday, February 25, 2009 - 05:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Tinner,
Heres how I fit that top area - not exactly like yours , but you'll see what I mean.
http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=8cbsmrhq19g
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Tinner666 (Tinner666)
Member
Username: Tinner666

Post Number: 22
Registered: 02-2009
Posted on Wednesday, February 25, 2009 - 05:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Well, the flashing is winged out 2". My brother did the counter and asked what I wanted. I said to just fold it around. We did NOT bother to clean all the old crapp off of it. It was really ugly and just cemented from top to bottom.

No Braymer, I don't have any other pics of that. There is also a turret on the other side of that wall I'm supposed to be re-doing one day.

BTW, I'm getting more people to change their last counter flashing on upper corners. I never cut them down to the bend, I check to see what the thickness of the materail I'm using is, then, cut to that point. Creates a channel that extends up the roof for several inches. Really cuts down on leak potential.
Rear corner sample cut to thickness of shingles.

How many here leave their last step flashing out until you run the other side to the ridge, then scissor-lock them? Just curious.
Sample of 'Finish steps' to finish out ridge detail.Scissor lock, with top lock also. Finished item may vary to suit each situation.

You know Joe, and all you other fellas, I really like this forum, and all you guys I've met. Even if I am a hack.
<A HREF="http://www.albertsroofing.com" TARGET="_blank">Slate Roof Repairs</A>
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Old_school (Old_school)
Senior Member
Username: Old_school

Post Number: 64
Registered: 01-2009
Posted on Wednesday, February 25, 2009 - 05:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Yeah Tinner, That chimney counter-flashing looks like crap!

Hey, we still love ya!
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Walter_musson (Walter_musson)
Senior Member
Username: Walter_musson

Post Number: 123
Registered: 07-2006
Posted on Wednesday, February 25, 2009 - 12:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Tinner,
In the first picture - whats happening with the chimney flashing ?
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Braymer (Braymer)
Senior Member
Username: Braymer

Post Number: 83
Registered: 09-2008
Posted on Wednesday, February 25, 2009 - 09:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Thats a cool looking wall behind you in the second photo down . Any more photos of that?
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Braymer (Braymer)
Senior Member
Username: Braymer

Post Number: 82
Registered: 09-2008
Posted on Wednesday, February 25, 2009 - 09:16 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I never walk or sit on slate, at least as little as possible.
People here will stop thier trucks and throw rocks at me if they see me do that !
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Tinner666 (Tinner666)
Member
Username: Tinner666

Post Number: 21
Registered: 02-2009
Posted on Wednesday, February 25, 2009 - 06:31 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

"How are those hooks when you want to lay the ladder at an angle on the roof, to get to an odd spot? Can you pivot the ladder and not only hang straight down.?"
I have enough ladders to cover a roof if necessary. But, sometimes, I walk on the slate anyway and use a positioning harness to access strange areas.
I have gone up on large hips, with little to no ridge, tossed 2 lines over the other side, tied the hook off at both corners of the house, then tied off the bottom of the hook, then traverssed the roof in harness. Steep ones, and so-so ones.
In the first pic, I had to point the ridges after repairs, si I just anchored in the center of the roof.

In the next one, I couldn't get the ladder any closer because of landscaping, terrain, etc,



I use 1/2" arborist line and Petzl 'Black I'D' which is a positioning/work belaying device. Primarily sold to rescue workers, I was able to buy them anyway. It's a 'hands-free' device. I can even go over the edge and lower myself to the ground if I was so inclined.

Another note. When a hook will reach DOWN to a spot, I can go up with a 20', set 1-2 5's beside it, stand on a 5, and reposition the 20 where ever I want it, even over the ridge.



I never had any trouble with the missing rung. But, I never load myself too heavily anymore due to a bad back.
<A HREF="http://www.albertsroofing.com" TARGET="_blank">Slate Roof Repairs</A>
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Braymer (Braymer)
Senior Member
Username: Braymer

Post Number: 81
Registered: 09-2008
Posted on Tuesday, February 24, 2009 - 12:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I think qualcraft still has them, just remove that wheel that swivels..
Qual-Craft # 2481
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Joe (Joe)
Senior Member
Username: Joe

Post Number: 369
Registered: 07-2006
Posted on Tuesday, February 24, 2009 - 12:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I used the double pointed hooks once back in 1980. They're the wrong hook type to use with slate. Can't angle the ladder, can't put too much weight on them, and they make the top heavier than a single hook would, throwing the ladder out of balance. Firemen use them, but they don't have to repair the roofs later, so they don't care. A standard slate roofing ladder hook (http://josephjenkins.com/store/home.php?cat=255) is the best.

[Note: American manufacturing has gone out of business and we are completely OUT of their ladder hooks. We're working with ACRO to manufacture a hook with a swivel top plate, and they say they will have a sample in a week, but we've been waiting months.]

We use single hooks on 8" long to 28' long hook ladders and don't remove rungs, which would seem to be a hazard, especially when coming down a hook ladder backwards with a load of slate in your hands. The rungs keep your feet off the roof. I would not recommend removing any. We have some old hook ladders where the rung is missing at the point where the side hooks used to be. They're a pain. You tend to step on the roof if you forget the rung is not there. Plus, carrying a heavy load up the hook ladder is harder when you have to step two rungs at a time.

Painting the center of balance seems like a good idea, especially if you have new employees often.
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Braymer (Braymer)
Senior Member
Username: Braymer

Post Number: 80
Registered: 09-2008
Posted on Tuesday, February 24, 2009 - 08:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

How are those hooks when you want to lay the ladder at an angle on the roof, to get to an odd spot? Can you pivot the ladder and not only hang straight down.?
I like the idea of taking rungs out to cut down on weight on the longer ones.
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Tinner666 (Tinner666)
Junior Member
Username: Tinner666

Post Number: 20
Registered: 02-2009
Posted on Monday, February 23, 2009 - 09:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

"Hey Tinner, Don't you think it would have been just a quick to set a scaffold on that job?"

I swear it was 6 of one, 1/2 dozen of the other.
Only took minutes to swap longer hooks arounf the dormas. The 5's make all kinds of maneuvers and material shifts super easy.
Slate Roof Repairs
<A HREF="http://www.albertsroofing.com" TARGET="_blank">Slate Roof Repairs</A>
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Old_school (Old_school)
Senior Member
Username: Old_school

Post Number: 63
Registered: 01-2009
Posted on Monday, February 23, 2009 - 08:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Hey Tinner, Don't you think it would have been just a quick to set a scaffold on that job?
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Kwhord (Kwhord)
Senior Member
Username: Kwhord

Post Number: 169
Registered: 10-2006
Posted on Monday, February 23, 2009 - 11:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Tinner, that's a great idea! Both lightening the bottom, and painting the balance point. Good show.
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Tinner666 (Tinner666)
Junior Member
Username: Tinner666

Post Number: 19
Registered: 02-2009
Posted on Sunday, February 22, 2009 - 10:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

A bit more stuff. I didn't want to lose a lot of typing on the first post.( Working alone, the no missing rungs rule doesn't apply. )

In the first pic, up close are a 20 footer and another. You can see the missing rungs and the yellow grab handles at the balance point. All of my hooks have a tie-in point for safety or positioning lines, as evidenced in this next pic.

In this one, you can see hooker in the center and 2 5 footers in the background.





Slate Roof Repairs
<A HREF="http://www.albertsroofing.com" TARGET="_blank">http://www.albertsroofing.com</A>
<A HREF="http://www.albertsroofing.com" TARGET="_blank">Slate Roof Repairs</A>
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Tinner666 (Tinner666)
Junior Member
Username: Tinner666

Post Number: 18
Registered: 02-2009
Posted on Sunday, February 22, 2009 - 10:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I saw mention of them earlier. I have them from 5' to 20'. Longer ones, I removed every other rung in the bottom because they were unsafe when rmoving from the roofs.
I use the double fireman's hooks. Points reground to be more flat at contact, and put the rubber boot from walking canes on them. They had metal inserts to protect the rubber.Long view.Close up.

The long ones are balanced at the upper 1/3 of the hook ladder. A 20 footer will come down so easy, it handles like an eight footer. I painted the rungs at the balance point so there's no mistake when taking one down.
Slate Roof Repairs
<A HREF="http://www.albertsroofing.com" TARGET="_blank">http://www.albertsroofing.com</A>
<A HREF="http://www.albertsroofing.com" TARGET="_blank">Slate Roof Repairs</A>

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