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Joe Jenkins
Senior Member
Username: Joe

Post Number: 307
Registered: 07-2006
Posted on Friday, July 11, 2008 - 04:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

JOHNSON BENCH FURNACES - Double burners and a refractory lining enable this unit to heat several soldering coppers at a time, fast. This bench mounted furnace is made from cast iron and built to last. Truly the standard for the industry for many years. Specify natural gas or LP. $568.85

You can find them here.
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Kurtis Hord
Senior Member
Username: Kwhord

Post Number: 62
Registered: 10-2006
Posted on Wednesday, July 09, 2008 - 08:32 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Joe sells them in his store on this site.
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Albert E. Norman
New member
Username: Kingcopperguy

Post Number: 1
Registered: 07-2008
Posted on Tuesday, July 08, 2008 - 10:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Hi, I'm looking for a portable propane soldering pot with a hose for the hand soldering irons
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Nick
New member
Username: Nyc_nick

Post Number: 1
Registered: 04-2008
Posted on Tuesday, April 29, 2008 - 03:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Anybody got a picture of that three sided iron Barry mentions?

Also, I got a charcoal pot and some old irons but I don't know where to get the charcoal. What kind of charcoal goes in there and where could I get some in Brooklyn, NY?

I tried using charcoal briquets, the kind commonly used for outdoor food grilling, and they didn't seem to get the iron hot enough. Was it just my technique was off?
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John Nacey
Posted on Sunday, December 28, 2003 - 12:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Barry Smiths article on vertical soldering I found informitive and interesting. Some thoughts; I have never seen a three sided iron or used one. I don't know if that alone would help soldering vertically. I would always start "too tin" at the top of a seam to solder as it is more difficult. I have never seen riveted seams in copper work in the Phiadelphia area. I wouldn't dispute there value. I suspect they might make soldering a little more challening. The final look for my soldered seams would have a distict horizontal ribbed look to them. This ribbing helps to reinforce the finished seam. Anyone out there still use charcoal firepots as I do for soldering, and know of a source for new pots?
John
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admin
Posted on Sunday, December 28, 2003 - 01:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I think Barry Smith was referring to the propane type of soldering units that we sell here at Slate Roof Central (http://www.jenkinsslate.com/store_solder.html).

Joe Jenkins
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slateworks
Posted on Sunday, December 28, 2003 - 04:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

John-I know of some older companys who may still have charcoal pots in the Pittsburgh area,I will check to see if they have any new/old stock they may no longer have a use for-I do some box gutter & small flat lock work,not alot,but enough over the years that I have moved to using a plumbers torch with acytelene,though the flame is dangerous,soldering vertical seams for me is easier than using Irons(NEED ALOT MORE PRACTICE)I have the propane Irons but have not really used them.I have only seen a few box gutters with riveted seams,we always use a lock type seam with a few clips underneath to hold metal in place,this type of seam does not have the rivet penetration and is easier to solder,the riveted seam is just an overlap seam counting on the rivets to hold the metal together while you solder it,these joints are tough to solder once you start applying heat,they tend to lift and separate,they can be soldered it just takes a fine touch.I do not stitch(horizontal rib) with the torch,I do install and extra layer once the seam is sweated.I saw a job over the summer that was done a few years ago,what a beautiful soldering job someone did,all the seams were stitched and very neat and uniform,Tried to find out who did it so I could learn something,but the owners were not the owners when the soldering work was done..How long does your Iron last when heated with charcoal?What size irons do you use? What is the proper way to prepare your irons to solder? Any info. would help.Thanks, Ron
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Walter Musson
Posted on Tuesday, February 03, 2004 - 03:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Slateworks- Ron
Send me an e-mail address and I'll forward you some shots of soldering gutters and flat roofs that I've taken recently.
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slateworks
Posted on Tuesday, February 03, 2004 - 06:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Hi Walter, Thank you,would like to see them. take care, Ron bcrklk@zoominternet.net
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Bill K.
Posted on Friday, February 06, 2004 - 07:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Hi,
My name is Bill, and I work for the Durable Slate Company in Columbus Ohio. I do alot of vertical seam soldering with a propane tank and irons. I think the thing that makes soldering a vertical seam easier, is alot of heat. If you get your iron as hot as you can without burning them up, then hold it at the top of your seam for a few seconds before adding the solder, it transfers the heat to the copper, and the solder will grab the copper instead of dripping. Then proceed down the seam adding only a little solder at a time. After I get all the way to the bottom, I then start back up the seam, again adding solder as I go. After that I start back at the top again, and I stitch the seam all the way down. Personally I think a seam that is riveted is easier to solder than a lock seam. So long as the rivets are no more than 1 1/4" apart. I think I may have some pictures of vertical solder seams that I and my other coworkers have done. If you are interested, email me at llibkore6@yahoo.com
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admin
Posted on Saturday, February 07, 2004 - 05:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Can you email some pictures to editor@traditionalroofing.com? Maybe we can put them on our web site where the vertical solder article is posted at:

http://www.traditionalroofing.com/TR3-vertical-soldering.html
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slateworks
Posted on Saturday, February 07, 2004 - 11:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Hi Bill, Please send photos to bcrklk@zoominternet.net I will try your technique on our next solder job,it sounds good. Thank you. Ron

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