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Slate Affair Inc.
Senior Member
Username: Slate_man

Post Number: 299
Registered: 01-2007
Posted on Monday, December 01, 2008 - 06:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I recommend looking at the SMACNA Sheet Metal and Air Conditioning Contractors National Assaciation for the correct use of copper. As far as lay-out you can do what Peter suggested but to get the square feet there's a few ways. I take my measurement up the roof then around the cone. Divide the measurement around the turret by two, this make two areas that if you layed it out flat it would make two triangles. So lets say you have measurements of 22 feet up the roof and 55 around the roof. Divide the cirile in half, to 27.5 x that by 22 (the run of the roof) =6.05 square. I would end up getting 12 squares. I us a pan former that makes 21 inch panels and end up with mistakes and waste. But I only have to make one of the two seam. Hope this helped.
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Rick M
New member
Username: Roofer_rick

Post Number: 4
Registered: 11-2008
Posted on Sunday, November 30, 2008 - 02:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

yes it will be double lock, but for thermal movement the job calls for the pannels to be no longer than 4' with fixed points and solder all joints, so we will use a hook stip every 4' section
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Peter
Member
Username: Plaughlin1

Post Number: 26
Registered: 03-2007
Posted on Sunday, November 30, 2008 - 12:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

What i typically do is buy coil stock that is long enough to run from eave edge to the very point. Then cut the coil diagonaly so you get 2 pieces out of every section of coil, that way you have no waste. Are you doing double locked standing seam? or just turning the sides up and capping them with a butyl filled cap?
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Rick M
New member
Username: Roofer_rick

Post Number: 3
Registered: 11-2008
Posted on Saturday, November 29, 2008 - 04:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

we are using 4' x 10' 20 oz Copper, making them with an 1" high rib on the brake starting out with 32" panels on the drip. Thanks
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Slate Affair Inc.
Senior Member
Username: Slate_man

Post Number: 298
Registered: 01-2007
Posted on Saturday, November 29, 2008 - 05:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

What kind of copper roofing are you installing.
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Kurtis Hord
Senior Member
Username: Kwhord

Post Number: 117
Registered: 10-2006
Posted on Friday, November 28, 2008 - 09:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

You hijacked a thread with something completely off-topic.
Start a new discussion.
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Rick M
New member
Username: Roofer_rick

Post Number: 2
Registered: 11-2008
Posted on Friday, November 28, 2008 - 09:06 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I have a question on a conical slate roof. It's measuring 120'(around) at the drip and 40' (around) at the top, measuring 26' from drip to ridge we figured aprox 21 square, question is, they want to remove slate and replace with copper, anyone know what to figure for waste? Thanks
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Slate Affair Inc.
Senior Member
Username: Slate_man

Post Number: 290
Registered: 01-2007
Posted on Monday, November 17, 2008 - 05:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Rick try using La-co flux, with lead-coated.
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Kurtis Hord
Senior Member
Username: Kwhord

Post Number: 114
Registered: 10-2006
Posted on Sunday, November 16, 2008 - 10:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Electric iron is pretty tough to use outside of a shop setting. Considering how portable the express is, there's really no comparison. As for soldering neatly you just have to practice and control your heat and flux carefully.

Use 60/40 solder for lead coated copper.
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Rick Miles
New member
Username: Roofer_rick

Post Number: 1
Registered: 11-2008
Posted on Saturday, November 15, 2008 - 09:32 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I have to solder a copper valley in the near future and am wondering...any suggestions on how to do it without it dropping down the valley and looking so messy?
Also, I just looked at a lead-coated copper roof...what type of solder do you use for patching that? I just bought the 550 watt soldering iron and am looking into the express iron. Which is better for roofing?
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Joe Jenkins
Senior Member
Username: Joe

Post Number: 335
Registered: 07-2006
Posted on Wednesday, November 12, 2008 - 09:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Closed flame soldering outfits can be viewed here: http://josephjenkins.com/store/home.php?cat=317
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Kurtis Hord
Senior Member
Username: Kwhord

Post Number: 112
Registered: 10-2006
Posted on Tuesday, November 11, 2008 - 08:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

It's just bad practice. Get an express self-contained torch for roofing work. The ~400 dollars you spend is much less than the cost of a lawsuit from burning a house down.
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Slate Affair Inc.
Senior Member
Username: Slate_man

Post Number: 289
Registered: 01-2007
Posted on Tuesday, November 11, 2008 - 06:03 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Most people use irones so that there's no flame in contact to the copper. There a possiblity that you could heat up the under layment and deck. Which could start a fire.

I us a acetylene torch some to, not a turdo torch they are hard to control. I use flux to soilder and alot of it, my though is the more flux in the seam the less the flame might start something on fire. (Old building I recomend to us a soldering iron, because of how dry/old the wood structure is.) A layer of 30lb felt instead of roisn paper as a slip sheet.
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Michael Behr
New member
Username: Behrmj

Post Number: 1
Registered: 11-2008
Posted on Monday, November 10, 2008 - 09:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I am wondering if my acetylene torch (what I use for soldering and brazing copper pipe) will work to solder copper flashing seams (mechanically secured with rivets) for my roof. Or do I need to specifically use a soldering iron? If so, why? Thanks!

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