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Slate Affair Inc.
Senior Member
Username: Slate_man

Post Number: 241
Registered: 01-2007
Posted on Wednesday, May 07, 2008 - 05:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Well Walter Classic has 15 foot gutters but not the Euro hanger and how knows if they would work together, (I am using the Euro roof mounted hanger.)that I can get from -Weather Guard Building Products- , (Thanks Peter I had come acrossed them.) -Rain Trade-, or -Gutter Gaurd- which only send 10' and/or 18'4". Also the full Euro style gutter system has one pcs miterd corners, unlike the other ones, with two or three pcs. I found that the gutter from the local Beacon Sales Co. didn't fit rigth it was a B Bros product.


Still what about the install is there anything that anyone see wrong with the gutters.

Would you do T/M or by a bid, what do you charge per hr, do you charge one way travel, do you charge for going to get materials from a supplier? What do you do with a gutter install. Do you credit for wasted gutter? Could repairs to a unfinished not the best installed slate roof and changes to just the look of something end up cost more then what it could of costed to have you do the whole roof from the start? Yes / No (Not to forget them adding gutters.)

SLATE IT
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Peter
Junior Member
Username: Plaughlin1

Post Number: 16
Registered: 03-2007
Posted on Tuesday, May 06, 2008 - 08:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Liam, Try Raintrade - www.raintrade.com
They custum cut lengths up to 20' they might be able to help you.
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Walter Musson
Senior Member
Username: Walter_musson

Post Number: 88
Registered: 07-2006
Posted on Tuesday, May 06, 2008 - 05:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Liam,
I'm not sure of the specifics , but they must have an 800 number you could call.
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Slate Affair Inc.
Senior Member
Username: Slate_man

Post Number: 239
Registered: 01-2007
Posted on Tuesday, May 06, 2008 - 04:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Watler will they send 14' 8" pcs of gutter?
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Slate Affair Inc.
Senior Member
Username: Slate_man

Post Number: 238
Registered: 01-2007
Posted on Tuesday, May 06, 2008 - 04:48 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I don't install my cant strip over the drip. I had a home owner that want it change from the clapboard to what you see in the picture. I am trying to point out that there is alot of way of doing stuff and if a home owner hires you to change a detail like the one were talking about its not always a functional problem your changeing, yet a esthetic. Would you do a job like this one by the hour or bid?
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David Spradlin
Intermediate Member
Username: David_spradlin

Post Number: 32
Registered: 06-2007
Posted on Monday, May 05, 2008 - 09:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I would imagine that theres got to be a gutter supply around that has a stationary halfround former. As far as the cant issue, the cant was always exposed before drip edge was commonly used. So unless the slates held back short, or theres a lack of pitch to where water would run back, I don't think theres a functional problem. And beauty is in the eye of beholder as far as the look. Owner should get what owner wants. The only problem I've had with cant under drip edge is at the corners where the gable meets the fascia, that little gap thats created (which is easily fixed with a shim) has occasionally bubbled out on me when I wasn't looking.
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Walter Musson
Senior Member
Username: Walter_musson

Post Number: 87
Registered: 07-2006
Posted on Monday, May 05, 2008 - 05:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Liam,
Classic Gutter Systems will sell you longer lengths I believe.
Why not put the clapboard or lath under the drip edge so it can't get wet and rot over time.
I'll take a picture today of another alternative you might try
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Slate Affair Inc.
Senior Member
Username: Slate_man

Post Number: 237
Registered: 01-2007
Posted on Monday, May 05, 2008 - 04:54 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Well thats different, I am talking about a supply company not a gutter installation company. Most gutter installation company don't have half round gutter former at least out here.

More important is if the gutter is installed rigth? And. Is it wrong to install a cant strip on top of your drip.
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David Spradlin
Intermediate Member
Username: David_spradlin

Post Number: 31
Registered: 06-2007
Posted on Sunday, May 04, 2008 - 10:27 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Liam, here in California alot of roofers and almost all guys that strictly do gutters have portable gutter machines that can run any length you want. They'll either ground drop them in customized lengths or hang them for you if you don't have time. This is the standard on reroofs, the only time you see stick gutter being used is on some new construction, usually where the plumbers or HVAC guys are doing the gutter work.
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Slate Affair Inc.
Senior Member
Username: Slate_man

Post Number: 236
Registered: 01-2007
Posted on Saturday, May 03, 2008 - 07:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

About 9 post back, we posted a picture of a roof with half-round gutters, what do all of you thing of the installation. The small curve has been improved. The plain of the roof is higher then the edge of the gutter (The gutter is pitched and the clearance of the gutter to the roof ranges from 3/4 to 3/8.).



Other topics- Is a cant strip (made from a clap board) installed on top of drip egde, is it wrong?

Is where any one that knows of a company that will send you the gutters you need to the size needed. Or is every-one in the same boat and can only get 10, 18 or 20 foot half round pcs?
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Joe Jenkins
Senior Member
Username: Joe

Post Number: 250
Registered: 07-2006
Posted on Sunday, March 30, 2008 - 08:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

We bend our cant (available on the web) 1/2" from the end of the copper drip edge to provide maximum support for the lower edge of the slate. Our first design had the cant right at the edge of the drip metal, but people complained that the cant could flatten out over time, so we backed it up 1/2", which is a close as we can get it due to the limitations of an 8' brake. We make it 8' long so we can UPS it to customers.

We can't be designing roof materials in case people walk on the slates. If they walk on them, they will break them - it doesn't much matter what's underneath. The solution is to keep people from walking on them, not redesign the materials in case Bigfoot is going to be there. I bought slates from one supplier who made all the nail holes too big. When I asked why, he said it was because contractors walked on the slates during installation and he thought bigger holes would reduce breakage. My question was - what about us guys who don't walk on the slate and want to do the best job? Why should we buy your slate if you're designing it for Bigfoot when we can buy slate from someone else who makes the holes correctly? Anyway - you get the point (I hope).

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ron kugel
Advanced Member
Username: Slateworks

Post Number: 49
Registered: 09-2006
Posted on Sunday, March 30, 2008 - 04:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

On most installations we also put lath under the drip edge,The drip edge with a cant does leave a gap plus if you install the slate with a 1 or 2" overhang the slate could be broken since it is resting on the top of the bent cant that is near the center of the drip edge.
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Slate Affair Inc.
Senior Member
Username: Slate_man

Post Number: 223
Registered: 01-2007
Posted on Sunday, March 30, 2008 - 01:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

How do you know if that detail is what broke the slate, not just a common broken pcs that happen to be on the eave. You can get broken pcs of slate anywhere, form other trades.

As far as the detail goes its not the typical detail we all use. Is it the way to go, for typical installation. Well you have to buy copper to do it, wood is cheaper and will most likely rot fast they copper or slate cant strip.
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Walter Musson
Senior Member
Username: Walter_musson

Post Number: 71
Registered: 07-2006
Posted on Sunday, March 30, 2008 - 11:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Stephen,
Thats why I put the cant under the drip edge too.
Less chance of other trades who are unfamiliar walking on slate doing damage to the roof.
Not to hijack here but can you provide me with 200 pcs. each of unfading reds and greens in 7" x 12"?
Thank you.
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Stephen J Taran
Advanced Member
Username: Steve_t

Post Number: 48
Registered: 07-2006
Posted on Sunday, March 30, 2008 - 10:37 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Do you ever have the problem of slate breaking at the eves because of the unsupported space by bending your cant into the drip edge?? The first Time I tried this the masons broke the slate at the eves. When you use a clap board you get full support under the slate??
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Slate Affair Inc.
Senior Member
Username: Slate_man

Post Number: 209
Registered: 01-2007
Posted on Wednesday, March 26, 2008 - 04:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Well this was done to match what was there. We where finishing this job for another slate company. We have done a few job there the drip egde is made bigger so that it reaches the gutter. The roof the gutter is on is only about a 3/12 so that partly why the gutter is so low.
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Peter
Junior Member
Username: Plaughlin1

Post Number: 15
Registered: 03-2007
Posted on Tuesday, March 25, 2008 - 07:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Liam,
In the picture you just posted- Do you typically install a piece of copper behind the dripedge that laps down into the gutter? or just let the slate overhang kick the water into the gutter.
Different contractors i work with like it done differnet ways, so i am wondering what your company does.
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Walter Musson
Senior Member
Username: Walter_musson

Post Number: 67
Registered: 07-2006
Posted on Tuesday, March 25, 2008 - 05:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Liam,
That looks good.
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Slate Affair Inc.
Senior Member
Username: Slate_man

Post Number: 207
Registered: 01-2007
Posted on Tuesday, March 25, 2008 - 05:12 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Here is another way of installing slate at the roof eaves. This is a job that we finished for another slate company because some of the details were wrong (Like i&w as step flashing on the rigde, incorrect repair, client disliked the way the cant strip was a white clap board and installed on top of the drip and even with the drip and slate edge.) So we installed what you see below which was great seeing that a few days before that the client had just got his copy of Traditional Roofing 6 that had a great article on drip installation.

drip
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Walter Musson
Senior Member
Username: Walter_musson

Post Number: 66
Registered: 07-2006
Posted on Tuesday, March 25, 2008 - 05:03 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Carlos,
Just because Liam and I accomplish a detail in different ways doesn't make either of us wrong, just differing ideas and experiences.
Contrary to your rantings were both damn fine slaters, something which you should strive for.
Why don't you do as Liam has suggested and add some pictures of your work for debate?
You had no reason to personally attack me , so I asked Joe to intervene. Other people on this board who know I have talent shouldn't have to be subjected to your nasty mouth.
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Slate Affair Inc.
Senior Member
Username: Slate_man

Post Number: 206
Registered: 01-2007
Posted on Tuesday, March 25, 2008 - 04:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Carlos, its not about rigth or wrong its about passing on info to other in are trade. You don't even know any of us. What do you have to offer, any picture, example what your lates project, how do you install drip? What make you so different from me or walter?
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carlos torres
Member
Username: Slatesergen

Post Number: 22
Registered: 03-2008
Posted on Monday, March 24, 2008 - 11:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

the two senior members can not agree on drip edge and i am the problem
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midwest
New member
Username: Midwest

Post Number: 1
Registered: 03-2008
Posted on Monday, March 24, 2008 - 09:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

carlos, you need to move on and get a life. This is a valuable message board for good information on slate roofing and you're providing nothing of value. Go away.
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carlos torres
Member
Username: Slatesergen

Post Number: 21
Registered: 03-2008
Posted on Monday, March 24, 2008 - 08:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

i still think you are a bum
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Walter Musson
Senior Member
Username: Walter_musson

Post Number: 65
Registered: 07-2006
Posted on Monday, March 24, 2008 - 07:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Joe,
Thank you very much for your help.
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Joe Jenkins
Senior Member
Username: Joe

Post Number: 242
Registered: 07-2006
Posted on Monday, March 24, 2008 - 06:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I deleted a couple posts on this thread because they were disrespectful of the other posters, which, as moderator, I will do whenever a justifiable complaint is lodged.
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Slate Affair Inc.
Senior Member
Username: Slate_man

Post Number: 202
Registered: 01-2007
Posted on Sunday, March 23, 2008 - 01:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I understand your point of protecting the slate, but I can also still see damage happening to your detail from the same things. What it come down to is the roofer doing the repair and how they go about doing any work. If it a new guy you may have some problem.

The slate in my picture is over hanging 1 1/2 in. The copper drip is about 2 1/2in. Their is on a good part of this roof as awhole is triple lapped or 4"HL.
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Walter Musson
Senior Member
Username: Walter_musson

Post Number: 60
Registered: 07-2006
Posted on Sunday, March 23, 2008 - 08:16 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Liam,
You mentioned my method might be a problem - but I find your overhang from the cant strip to be more than I'd feel comfortable with.
Snow and ice, ladders and foot traffic would be concerns I might have with such a long unsupported span.
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Slate Affair Inc.
Senior Member
Username: Slate_man

Post Number: 192
Registered: 01-2007
Posted on Thursday, March 20, 2008 - 06:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Here is a better picture of useing a slate cant strip. Its really the way to go if you want a real slate roof look.
slate drip
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Branden Wilson
New member
Username: Branden_wilson

Post Number: 10
Registered: 03-2008
Posted on Monday, March 17, 2008 - 09:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

ey mon my words not so strong but me too say what up? fancy underlay an plastic pipe flashin?
pipe flashin
dis be mine

sorry bro but you posted the pics.
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Walter Musson
Senior Member
Username: Walter_musson

Post Number: 53
Registered: 07-2006
Posted on Saturday, March 15, 2008 - 09:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Liam,
Is that you with screen name of slateman on Breaktime?
If so what did you think?
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carlos torres
Junior Member
Username: Slatesergen

Post Number: 11
Registered: 03-2008
Posted on Saturday, March 15, 2008 - 04:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

RIGHT

do you doubt your work, if your so right about everything why use grace
i gess there is doubt unless the grace lets you sleep at night
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Walter Musson
Senior Member
Username: Walter_musson

Post Number: 52
Registered: 07-2006
Posted on Saturday, March 15, 2008 - 06:16 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

No, I'm making certain there are no backup issues till long after I've retired.
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Slate Affair Inc.
Senior Member
Username: Slate_man

Post Number: 185
Registered: 01-2007
Posted on Saturday, March 15, 2008 - 05:44 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

You are rigth Walter not nailing the cant strip in is just wrong.
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carlos torres
New member
Username: Slatesergen

Post Number: 9
Registered: 03-2008
Posted on Friday, March 14, 2008 - 07:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

just like everyone says ice and water (grace) makes no sence

what are you trying to make it hard for me to do repairs after you retire
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Walter Musson
Advanced Member
Username: Walter_musson

Post Number: 50
Registered: 07-2006
Posted on Friday, March 14, 2008 - 06:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Heres a link to the slate job we're doing now.

http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=99268.290
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Walter Musson
Advanced Member
Username: Walter_musson

Post Number: 49
Registered: 07-2006
Posted on Friday, March 14, 2008 - 04:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Liam,
It's a chimney bracket scaffold for the masons building the chimney. They'll wash it and tear down on Monday.
Why wouldn't anyone nail the cant down to secure it prior to drip edge installation.
Makes absolutely no sense to me.
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Slate Affair Inc.
Senior Member
Username: Slate_man

Post Number: 184
Registered: 01-2007
Posted on Friday, March 14, 2008 - 05:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

What is the steel frame above the toilet vent?

As far as the detail, its the same way we would do it, other then, we would use a clap board under the drip.

I came across a company this summer that would do the same detail but not nails the cant strip in. They would hold it there as they nailed on the drip. I think we all know what happen there. What do you think about that?
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Walter Musson
Advanced Member
Username: Walter_musson

Post Number: 48
Registered: 07-2006
Posted on Friday, March 14, 2008 - 05:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Other pic didn't show up.

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Walter Musson
Advanced Member
Username: Walter_musson

Post Number: 47
Registered: 07-2006
Posted on Friday, March 14, 2008 - 05:34 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Heres a picture of how we do it.picture
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carlos torres
New member
Username: Slatesergen

Post Number: 7
Registered: 03-2008
Posted on Sunday, March 09, 2008 - 08:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

i mean on the eves
when you are facing the begining of the roof
i understand what the slate man did
i am going to try to put the cant strip underneath the drip edge
i just do not want to have a big drip edge face
1" decking + 1/2 cant might give me a 2" drip face
wide drip edge is ulgy
thats why i wanted to try the drip edge with the cant bend
the roof has shingles now with a facia board and i know it is short
the home is not that old and in newer homes the facia board is aways lower then the roof so if i use the small drip edge it will leave a hole
I do not do much new slate roof work
I make tons of money replaceing flashing and slate
there is a lot of pain and suffering doing repairs
i make them pay
i might not even do the job because the repairs pay better
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Joe Jenkins
Senior Member
Username: Joe

Post Number: 239
Registered: 07-2006
Posted on Sunday, March 09, 2008 - 07:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

The drip with the built-in cant can be snipped off at the end in such a manner that the cant part of it can be folded shut to close the hole. I can't imagine that this could be an issue with a property owner as the entire gable edge of a slate roof is open to insects, so to speak.
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Branden Wilson
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Username: Branden_wilson

Post Number: 6
Registered: 03-2008
Posted on Sunday, March 09, 2008 - 04:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

slate affair, me likes mon! i guess i cheat a little by using a wet saw and a drill(only with the cants)but the slates i work with are usually always 5/8" or thicker.

i'm in a high wind area and i'm required to use glue on the hips and ridges. i know this is viewed as a crime but i'm required to and there is an inspection so there is no way around it.

i did however develop a method for making future repairs safely and effeciently tho.
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Branden Wilson
New member
Username: Branden_wilson

Post Number: 5
Registered: 03-2008
Posted on Sunday, March 09, 2008 - 04:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

slate affair, me likes mon! i guess i cheat a little by using a wet saw and a drill(only with the cants)but the slates i work with are usually always 5/8" or thicker.

i'm in a high wind area and i'm required to use glue on the hips and ridges. i know this is viewed as a crime but i'm required to and there is an inspection so there is no way around it.

i did however develop a method for making future repairs safely and effeciently tho.
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Walter Musson
Advanced Member
Username: Walter_musson

Post Number: 44
Registered: 07-2006
Posted on Sunday, March 09, 2008 - 08:16 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I like the look and performance of putting the 3/8" wooden cant strip under the copper drip edge.
It's a much cleaner, foolproof method for both lifting the starter course and having a crisp drip edge.
I'll be posting later this week on Breaktime on the thread I linked to in another thread here last week, as we begin slating a new timber framed house. It will show the detail I'm talking about.
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Slate Affair Inc.
Senior Member
Username: Slate_man

Post Number: 179
Registered: 01-2007
Posted on Sunday, March 09, 2008 - 07:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Here is how we typically do are cant strip. I cut all my pcs (1 1/2 "x what ever size the slate is random one side?) with a slate cutter or slater stake, and punch holes. (Make sure the slate nail hole are punched bigger then typical holes.)You can also see the down side of using bull dog roof cement too, for it may run a little sometimes.

(Warning to all that come across a time when you need to use a cement on your roof slate. Use as little as possilbe, half a finger nail is all that is need. To much will ruin a new slate roof for the slate roofer that needs to repair it in 100 years. If you are not in a wind, wind area do not use any thats all its for.)

Wilde 2008 #4 Wilde 2008 #4
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carlos torres
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Username: Slatesergen

Post Number: 4
Registered: 03-2008
Posted on Saturday, March 08, 2008 - 10:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

good idea
how do i attach it
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Branden Wilson
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Username: Branden_wilson

Post Number: 2
Registered: 03-2008
Posted on Saturday, March 08, 2008 - 09:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

i use 3x3 copper drip edge and i use slate cant strips. this is one of the few pieces that i cut on a wet saw because of how small they are. i still face the chiseled edge down. what does everyone think of this? any long term problems?
i found this idea in a book called the "slate book", which by the way has nothing over the "slate bible".
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carlos torres
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Username: Slatesergen

Post Number: 3
Registered: 03-2008
Posted on Saturday, March 08, 2008 - 08:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

joe
i want to use the copper drip edge you sell with the caint bend, but it leaves a space at the edge of the roof i think.
my problem is that the home owner is going to say that the insects are going to nest there
what do you think
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Joe Jenkins
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Username: Joe

Post Number: 220
Registered: 07-2006
Posted on Saturday, February 16, 2008 - 02:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

There is an article about drip edges on slate roofs here: http://www.traditionalroofing.com/TR6_drip_edges.html

How to retrofit an edge covering depends a lot on where the cant strip is (if there is one). If it's just an aesthetic issue, and if the cant strip is where it's supposed to be (at the bottom of the roof deck edge) then face-nailing a drip edge may be a reasonable option. You can also insert the drip edge over the top of the cant strip, rather than underneath it.

We have added retrofit drip edges to buildings at the request of the architect, but we remove a slate every 3 or 4 feet, slide the drip edge in place, drill and nail the drip edge through the top between two starter slates, then replace the removed slate with a nail and bib. This eliminates face nails, but takes a little more time.
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Kurtis Hord
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Username: Kwhord

Post Number: 27
Registered: 10-2006
Posted on Saturday, February 16, 2008 - 09:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Good point, Liam. I'm just set in my ways. I always use that profile for drip edge, even if I'm not hemming anything to it :)
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Slate Affair Inc.
Senior Member
Username: Slate_man

Post Number: 171
Registered: 01-2007
Posted on Saturday, February 16, 2008 - 07:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Kurtis has drawn a good exsample but you don't need to install a standing seam drip. The extra part that is over hanging about a 1 inch under the slate and double back is unnecessary. This part of Kurtis's drawning of the drip edge is for folding around the bottom part of the standing seam panel.
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kim Cerniglia
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Username: Homeowner

Post Number: 5
Registered: 02-2008
Posted on Friday, February 15, 2008 - 06:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

You are correct Kurtis, you can see the edge of the plywood from the ground and I was not sure if it was acceptable to face nail the drip edge.
I was also worried about water splashing up out of the gutter onto the edge of the exposed wood as well. Should I be worried about this?
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Kurtis Hord
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Username: Kwhord

Post Number: 26
Registered: 10-2006
Posted on Friday, February 15, 2008 - 03:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

This would be a way to slide it up without face-nailing: Fabricate a piece with a z clip. Make sure the part that stick under the slate leaves at least 3/4" between the edge and the cant strip. Slide it under the slate and nail into the side of the decking. On the drip edge, you'll need to make a hem toward the roof deck, but leave it open so it has some spring to it. When you slide the drip edge under the slate it will lock into the z clip.

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Kurtis Hord
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Username: Kwhord

Post Number: 25
Registered: 10-2006
Posted on Friday, February 15, 2008 - 02:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

It sounds like you have too much material built up on the roof deck, which is now 1.5 inches thick! All that extra wood makes it thick enough to notice from the ground and you want to cover the exposed edge with copper... Is this what you are saying?

We could debate about why there is plywood on the roof in the first place but that's outside the scope of this discussion. You don't want to remove the slates just to install a drip edge. You'll only be able to push it as far as the cant strip. The "top" part of drip edge will be different widths depending on who makes it. You may have to cut it so it slides all the way up. You can face nail the apron with copper ring shank nails. If the slate hangs over the edge like it should than the drip edge won't really serve a purpose other than to cover up all that wood.

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kim Cerniglia
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Username: Homeowner

Post Number: 2
Registered: 02-2008
Posted on Thursday, February 14, 2008 - 07:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I under stand most slate roofs do not have drip edge, But when I had my roof install I had the roofer in stall 1/2" decking over the existing spaced 1x8's and now the edge of the decking is exposed and Iwould like to install copper drip. edge
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Joe Jenkins
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Username: Joe

Post Number: 214
Registered: 07-2006
Posted on Thursday, February 14, 2008 - 06:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Existing slate roofs normally do not have drip edges installed after the fact. Most slate roofs (99.9%) do not have metal drip edges.
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kim Cerniglia
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Username: Homeowner

Post Number: 1
Registered: 02-2008
Posted on Thursday, February 14, 2008 - 03:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Joe,
What is the proper way to install a drip edge on an existing slate roof?

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