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Joe Jenkins
Senior Member
Username: Joe

Post Number: 176
Registered: 07-2006
Posted on Thursday, September 06, 2007 - 11:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

On the standing seam snow apron, we installed the top course of removed slates with nails and bibs (not hooks). Nails and bibs are fast and completely invisible. But, as I said, we did not install a straight continuous course with nails and bibs. Every few slates horizontally, we went a course up and pulled an extra slate out. This allowed us to nail the underlying slates with two nails on one side, rather than having to use a nail and bib. Then the extra slate above was reinstalled with a nail and bib. If you install a straight continuous course with a nail and bib on each slate, then the slates in that course can go crooked over time due to being on only one nail (they can swivel). So it's a good idea to take a slate out on the overlying course periodically and nail the underlying slate with two nails on one side. This stabilizes the course and prevents the swivel effect.
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AF
Junior Member
Username: Tonyeriepa

Post Number: 12
Registered: 03-2007
Posted on Wednesday, September 05, 2007 - 04:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Aaarrrgggh! My last message has a fundamental flaw! For the regular 3" slate hook to work, the copper cannot extend uphill by exposure+headlap. Rather it should extend uphill beneath the starter and first course by the headlap amount only ... it all depends on where the final row you're replacing is located, at the copper or a few rows up the field.
My best advice: never mind my rantings as I've been digging myself into a hole on this and I should really stop digging and await a professional slater's opinion!
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Shawn Bisgrove
New member
Username: Bisgrs

Post Number: 3
Registered: 09-2007
Posted on Wednesday, September 05, 2007 - 04:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Thnaks! This was my question and based on a reply that I found from Mr. Jenkins, this seems to jive. See below, if anyone else cares to comment.



Joe Jenkins wrote when answering the topic Starter Course Mess and I quote:

"You have to remove the bottom two exposed courses (and the starter course). Then, when replacing the slates, periodically remove a third course slate so you can reinstall the second course slates with two nails on one side. You do NOT want to replace slates with only one nail in them. All slates must have two nails.

You would probably be removing every other 3rd course slate, then replacing the 3rd course slates using slate hooks or bibs and nails. It's not uncommon on old houses to repair the drip edge in this manner, but on a new installation, it's unfortunate to have to do this. This procedure would never be used on a new installation unless the installer didn't know what he was doing when he started the roof."
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AF
Junior Member
Username: Tonyeriepa

Post Number: 11
Registered: 03-2007
Posted on Wednesday, September 05, 2007 - 04:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Should be attached by regular slating nails I'd think, no need for hangars. The top (uphill end) of the standing seams can be flattened over so that the copper apron is then not much thicker than the slates it replaces (as far as the lowermost course of slate is concerned). The copper would extend (exposure+headlap) inches up under the bottom end of the planned lowermost course of slate which is then nailed on as normal through the existing nail holes. In fact, if you look towards the left side of the picture, you can see that the nail holes in the lowermost course will clear the top of the copper apron no problem. In case you acidentally puncture the very top of the copper with a slate nail, make sure you use copper nails because a galvanized one will undergo galvanic corrosion over time.
Oops, I should have read the question better: slate hooks would work fine on the last row to be installed!! But to stop them developing a lean to the republican or democrat, it's good to actually have removed every other slate in the last row that you had earlier removed. That way every other slate in the final row you're reinstalling can have two nails in it (although vertically aligned, using an original hole and a new one just above it) so the row doesn't develop a skew (to the left or right) over time. The slates between the two-nail ones can then be hooked with stainless steel hooks. Hope that helps.
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Shawn Bisgrove
New member
Username: Bisgrs

Post Number: 2
Registered: 09-2007
Posted on Wednesday, September 05, 2007 - 03:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

credit: http://www.slateroofcentral.com/install_snow_aprons.htm


My apologies to the original owner of the graphic. Here is a depiction of what I am trying to ask. I plan on cleating the apron and then the big question is how to attach the course of slate.
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Shawn Bisgrove
New member
Username: Bisgrs

Post Number: 1
Registered: 09-2007
Posted on Wednesday, September 05, 2007 - 01:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Having read the Slate Roof Bible and been getting more ambitious about restoring my roof. I have done roofing work before, and am not treading lightly into this area. I also plan on having other sections of the roof done by a slate roofer. But for some areas, I would like to attempt it myself

I have one question which is probably pretty routine, but cannot find the information anywhere.

This example picture shows the condition of the flashing around the entire house. Once I remove the first two or three courses of slate withe the last course removed with a slate ripper and remove and replace the metal (seamed and soldered). The question is:

Once I start putting the slates back starting at the first course, for the final course, obviously I would not be able to nail these into place because they end up slipping under the courses that I did not remove. Do I use slate hooks? or do I have to remove all of the slate in order to do this properly. If my question is not clear enough I can provide additional pictures or text.

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