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Cpaulin (Cpaulin)
Junior Member
Username: Cpaulin

Post Number: 19
Registered: 08-2006
Posted on Friday, June 22, 2012 - 03:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

That's done with a Lancaster, if you don't have a roll former. Looks like this.



Becomes a much better tool paired with a foot pedal stand, frees up both your hands.



Here's what it makes:



I'll start a new thread for this project, this is what we replaced, leaked for 19 years:




Thanks to Liam for his helpful advice on concave double lock standing seam.
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Slate_man (Slate_man)
Senior Member
Username: Slate_man

Post Number: 605
Registered: 01-2007
Posted on Tuesday, May 18, 2010 - 06:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

If you have real shrinker it will leave less makers then the crimpers, but both work. You should also have seaming irons to finishs the seam, these are used with a dead-blow. As you hit the copper agains the iron, this will help to make the folds. You will need crimps in addition to tweek the metal here and there.
You should be able to fold the metal in two even a double lock seam, this where I us the crimps some too. So, you need to make u-panel, one side 1 3/8 the other 1 7/8 or around that, after panel are installed, you just need to roll the high panel over two time to make the double seam.

If you have a roll former standing seam machine the two roller at the rear of the machine, the "camber roller", these can be used to curve the standing seam in the seam shape. This will cut your time in at least half the time.
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Bstinelli (Bstinelli)
Junior Member
Username: Bstinelli

Post Number: 17
Registered: 07-2009
Posted on Monday, May 17, 2010 - 10:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

hey thanks im curious how the old timers did it shrinkers really chew up the metal it looks like a single lock the one i looked at i thought about doing it with crimpers and using some double seamers not sure when you turn it over for a downleg if its gonna work there isnt any info out on these subjects
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Blue_sky_roofing (Blue_sky_roofing)
Junior Member
Username: Blue_sky_roofing

Post Number: 16
Registered: 05-2010
Posted on Monday, May 17, 2010 - 09:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

What I've done for curved bay windows is make panels up with a 1" standing seam, and then use downspout crimpers to lightly crimp the standing seam so it 'relaxes' down against the curve. After you get all the standing seams fitting tight against each other, I take a sheet of 'soft copper' and cut a 1.5" wide strip. Fold in half to make a 3/4" cover for the 2 abutted standing seams. Bend with hand to the curvature of the roof. You can pop rivet or fold the bottom and top corners over to lock in place.
I've only ever done 1 barrel roof, but it was a flat seam.
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Bstinelli (Bstinelli)
Junior Member
Username: Bstinelli

Post Number: 16
Registered: 07-2009
Posted on Monday, May 17, 2010 - 07:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

if anyone is around i'm curious how are standing seam roofs bent (like swept roof bays etc.. barrel dormers) by hand i know there are radius machines, but do you use a shrinker, or do you cut the radius on the panel and start bending it with tongs

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