Author |
Message |
   
Epl (Epl)
Senior Member Username: Epl
Post Number: 54 Registered: 06-2009
| Posted on Tuesday, January 12, 2010 - 11:36 am: |
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David, No problem at all. If a blend is required (per the existing roof), I am sure I can mix the various batches that I currently have in stock as well (I have atleast 3-4 different batches of this tile). Should the home owner require physical samples and/ or more photos, I am more than willing to do this as well (samples are free of charge). Thank you again, Thank you, Eric P. Loema Sales | Salvage | Procurement P (800) 699-5695 | F (815) 547-1425 Web: www.TileandSlateSales.com | E-mail: epl@TileandSlateSales.com |
   
David_hawks (David_hawks)
Junior Member Username: David_hawks
Post Number: 11 Registered: 12-2009
| Posted on Tuesday, January 12, 2010 - 10:05 am: |
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Thanks Eric, Leaving the HO responsible for obtaining ALL materials. He's been following this thread with interest. |
   
Epl (Epl)
Advanced Member Username: Epl
Post Number: 43 Registered: 06-2009
| Posted on Tuesday, January 05, 2010 - 02:51 pm: |
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Here is an image of the Brooville Green Closed Shingle tile and common trim accessories! JOE - thank you for the image help - I appreciate it!!!
Eric P. Loema Sales | Salvage | Procurement P (800) 699-5695 | F (815) 547-1425 Web: www.TileandSlateSales.com | E-mail: epl@TileandSlateSales.com |
   
Old_school (Old_school)
Senior Member Username: Old_school
Post Number: 351 Registered: 01-2009
| Posted on Saturday, January 02, 2010 - 12:40 am: |
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David, John R. Crookston (aka Old School) @ john.r.crookston@charter.net or 269-806-1266 cell phone# Either one will work just fine. |
   
David_hawks (David_hawks)
New member Username: David_hawks
Post Number: 10 Registered: 12-2009
| Posted on Friday, January 01, 2010 - 05:53 pm: |
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Old School, how about some contact info for u? davidhawksbldg@yahoo.com |
   
Joe (Joe)
Senior Member Username: Joe
Post Number: 487 Registered: 07-2006
| Posted on Tuesday, December 29, 2009 - 12:08 pm: |
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I edited the post so the photos are vertical. When we work on tile roofs, we take some tiles off where we want to install roof jacks and a plank, then we lay a roof ladder on the plank and walk on the ladder, not the roof. When done, we replace the tiles using tile hangers wired and adhered to the back side of whatever replacement tiles need them. |
   
David_hawks (David_hawks)
New member Username: David_hawks
Post Number: 9 Registered: 12-2009
| Posted on Tuesday, December 29, 2009 - 08:46 am: |
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Sorry about that fellas. Was wondering the same myself. |
   
Slate_man (Slate_man)
Senior Member Username: Slate_man
Post Number: 541 Registered: 01-2007
| Posted on Tuesday, December 29, 2009 - 06:03 am: |
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Old School, the post it running acrosses the page because of the way David posted his pictures. If you just load them one after another you get what is in this post. To get the post to read the other way, you need to list the picture one per line. |
   
Epl (Epl)
Intermediate Member Username: Epl
Post Number: 39 Registered: 06-2009
| Posted on Monday, December 28, 2009 - 05:59 pm: |
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David, The tile pictured is actually a Ludowici Closed Shingle tile (old style). It is commonly referred to as a "book tile". The actual measurement should be 11" x 8-3/4" x 1-1/4" thick butt end (exposire is 8" x 8"). The color is Brookville Green (glazed green). It is one of the more durable Ludowici tiles manufactured!!! Your ridges are #211's and the hips are #118's. Should you have a need for any of these materials, please let me know as I have 50 plus squares in stock as well as all trimmings. Thank you, Eric P. Loema Sales | Salvage | Procurement P (800) 699-5695 | F (815) 547-1425 Web: www.TileandSlateSales.com | E-mail: epl@TileandSlateSales.com |
   
Old_school (Old_school)
Senior Member Username: Old_school
Post Number: 342 Registered: 01-2009
| Posted on Monday, December 28, 2009 - 05:24 pm: |
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Joe, why do some of these posts go all the way across the page so that you have to scroll the pointer to see everything? Some of the posts are readable from one setting! I don't understand! |
   
Old_school (Old_school)
Senior Member Username: Old_school
Post Number: 341 Registered: 01-2009
| Posted on Monday, December 28, 2009 - 05:22 pm: |
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David, You install the flashings and such FIRST, before you install the tiles. When you tear off, even though the roof is only one story up, I would set scaffold around it to give you a place to store stuff and to walk on; especially if you can't take the tile off from the roof to get it out of your way. As far as new decking, it would be overkill in my opinion, but see how the deck looks when you take everything off. Look at the tiles, and I think you will see that they have a "lug" on the top of them. If they do, you can install the new underlayment over the whole roof first, and then instead of installing a new decking, just strike lines at the exposure for the tiles and install 1 x 2 lath on the lines. then you have a new "surface" for the tile, and you also have something to hang the tile on. I would use about 4' pieces and gap them about an inch between to allow the water to get out. It WILL get under the tile in places; count on it! This also makes it easy to replace any broken tile. You just remove the broken one and slide a new one in and let it hook on the lath. As far as walking on the tile, it will break them. You install all of the pieces and trim as you go working from the lath that you installed previously. Make sure and install some hip nailers too as you have to be able to fasten the ridges to something. We have done Hundreds of similiar roofs in the past and if you have any specific questions, feel free to give me a call or email me. It is lots of work, but it really looks nice when done right! |
   
David_hawks (David_hawks)
New member Username: David_hawks
Post Number: 8 Registered: 12-2009
| Posted on Monday, December 28, 2009 - 03:08 pm: |
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Thanks for the feedback fellas! The owner is fairly insistent about a full remove/redo; I tend to agree. A close inspection reveals roughly 35% of the tiles are either wrong color, loose, or cracked, etc. I'm afraid that a hodge-podge spot repair job just wouldn't be thorough enough. Old School, are you suggesting that the tiles CANNOT be walked on? Kinda tough to install trim, caps, etc., don't you think? Yes, the shingles will be replaced. Also, would you recommend overlaying the board sheathing with plywood or OSB? That's standard for me when doing a shingle roof, as I am a firm believer in finished product being only as good as the substrate. Overkill? Thanks again |
   
Joe (Joe)
Senior Member Username: Joe
Post Number: 486 Registered: 07-2006
| Posted on Monday, December 28, 2009 - 12:01 pm: |
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Take the tiles off that back porch and put slate or tile on it. Use the salvaged tiles to repair the rest of the roof. Remove the ugly strap hangers and install tile hangers on the back of the tiles: http://www.slateroofcentral.com/tile_repair.html |
   
Old_school (Old_school)
Senior Member Username: Old_school
Post Number: 340 Registered: 01-2009
| Posted on Sunday, December 27, 2009 - 10:21 pm: |
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David, that is Ludowici Americana tile. Whoever did the repairs didn't know how to repair tile. IF they installed that over wooden lath, it is easy to repair, because the tile have lugs on the back that hook on the lath. We installed THOUSANDS of squares of Vande Hey concrete tile that looked similiar. The dark green glazed tile that they did repairs with don't match worth a hoot. Are you going to replace the asphalt shingle section that was added later? The way to do repairs on that type of roof is with a clip that attaches to the back of the tile with copper wire. Ludowici makes some for that, or you can make your own. Joe has pictures of one in his Slate bible. As far as tearing it off, if you want to do that, set a scaffold along the bottom and work from the bottom up. The tiles will lift up easily from the bottom, and the nails will come right out. Install new underlayment and flashings and then re-install it. Pictures as you are taking it apart will be helpful, but remember that water runs downhill. Durable slate or Renisance Roofing will have replacement tiles for you. When you re-install, work from the end as you are installing the tile so you don't walk on them. STRIKE LINES!!!!! before you try and install them. Follow the lines! You can adjust the exposure so that the tile will lay out right with the ridge. It is hard to cut them and drill them, but you will find that out. Good luck! |
   
David_hawks (David_hawks)
New member Username: David_hawks
Post Number: 7 Registered: 12-2009
| Posted on Sunday, December 27, 2009 - 06:33 pm: |
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Poor repairs over the years have resulted in a multitude of leaks in various places from eave to ridge. Lots of cracked tiles, lots of sliders where the nails have disentigrated. Not to throw stones, but the initial 1927 install seems a little suspect. Or maybe I'm asking too much from a tile roof? IMHO(as well as the owner's), the only proper way to remidy all the issues would be to strip it all and start over. Your thoughts? |
   
Joe (Joe)
Senior Member Username: Joe
Post Number: 485 Registered: 07-2006
| Posted on Sunday, December 27, 2009 - 05:52 pm: |
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Why are you taking it off and reinstalling it? |
   
David_hawks (David_hawks)
New member Username: David_hawks
Post Number: 4 Registered: 12-2009
| Posted on Sunday, December 27, 2009 - 05:39 pm: |
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Lets' try some pix
 |
   
David_hawks (David_hawks)
New member Username: David_hawks
Post Number: 3 Registered: 12-2009
| Posted on Sunday, December 27, 2009 - 05:27 pm: |
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My biggest question is about walking on the tiles. Obviously I'll have to climb up to the ridge to begin the removal and work down. I'm 5' 10", 150 lbs, and pretty agile for an older cat. How much will these tiles take? Do I need to set up a series of chicken ladders or something similar? Edit to add: Roof decking is continuous 1x board sheathing--not "skip" sheathing. (Message edited by david_hawks on December 27, 2009) |
   
Old_school (Old_school)
Senior Member Username: Old_school
Post Number: 339 Registered: 01-2009
| Posted on Sunday, December 27, 2009 - 02:50 pm: |
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David, it depends on the glaze, but if new ones are not availble, I am sure that used ones are. A crane or extendo forklift are great helps. You will need the room on the scaffold to store everything else and it helps to get them out of the way while you are working. Label them (the cuts and such) before you take them off. Clay tile are a bitch to cut and drill, and you will find that they made the cuts for the job. good luck! |
   
David_hawks (David_hawks)
New member Username: David_hawks
Post Number: 2 Registered: 12-2009
| Posted on Sunday, December 27, 2009 - 02:11 pm: |
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Thanx Walter. Apologies to the "other" slate_man. |
   
Walter_musson (Walter_musson)
Senior Member Username: Walter_musson
Post Number: 176 Registered: 07-2006
| Posted on Sunday, December 27, 2009 - 01:46 pm: |
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David , Actually on this board I use my own name -- theres another fellow here who uses that handle . I hope there are some folks willing to help here . Best , Walter |
   
David_hawks (David_hawks)
New member Username: David_hawks
Post Number: 1 Registered: 12-2009
| Posted on Sunday, December 27, 2009 - 12:16 pm: |
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New member here; referred by slate_man. Gonna be bidding on a take-off and re-install (for the purpose of structural repair) soon. Ludowicki glazed tiles, green. Supposedly still available. Will post pics of job asap. Needing info on how to scaffold and stage this particular project. Never worked on tile or slate b/4. Thanks in advance. |