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Joe Jenkins (Admin)
Posted on Saturday, February 01, 2003 - 09:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Hi Folks,

I have decided to add this topic of discussion to this board because people are always contacting me and asking me how much something costs and I tend to encourage them to put their query on the message board. Everybody charges different rates and costs vary from region to region, but this segment of the message board may give people some idea of what some costs may be. Sp if you want to know what something costs, this is the place to post your query.

Joe Jenkins
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Sandra Barrett
Posted on Thursday, May 29, 2003 - 05:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I would like some information on the costs for repairing or reroofing a home with about 1300 sq ft located in Charleston, SC. I also need the name of qualified roofers for that aarea. The home is located west of the Ashley with a zip code of 29407.
Thank you kindly...
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admin
Posted on Thursday, May 29, 2003 - 10:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Take a look at the contractor directory at http://www.jenkinsslate.com/directory.html

Maybe give Stacy Moore a call.
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Dave Sossamon
Posted on Wednesday, July 09, 2003 - 02:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I am looking for help of two kinds (either or both):
(a) someone who can do the work;
(b) a "reality check" on the cost.

Definition of the problem:
1. serious leaks at the base of two or more valleys;
2. slates needing replacement - less than a dozen;
3. roof has had no maintenance for at least 15 years (my ownership), probably more.

Description of the roof:
1. covers a "footprint" of approx 1600 sq ft;
2. has 3 roomsized "dormers" - creating 6 valleys;
3. pitched at approx 30 degrees;
4. grey slate

Cause for Questioning:
One contractor recommended "re-laying the flashing in the valleys and using some sort of "cement" on the primary ridge, touching up around chimney, etc., and replacing missing slates. So far, so good, maybe. One day's work for about $5000. Not so good. Offered a 10 year warranty (have not seen in writing yet); when questioned, stated that this included visits twice a year for 10 years (seems a excessive) and dropped price to $4000.
Another contractor proposed applying some sort of plastic coating to the valleys, and said that would need to be done every 3 years or so.
Comments?

Dave Sossamon
Washington, DC
sossamon@zeroneinc.com
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Walter Musson
Posted on Saturday, July 12, 2003 - 11:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Dave,
Did that quote include all six valleys or just the two that are actively leaking?Was he a one man crew or a bunch of guys?6 valleys in one day isn't possible for one man if they are 12' or longer,since you say the dormers are roomsize.Cement shold not be used as an alternative to flashing either on ridge,chimney,or valleys.Get other quotes,a reputable slater will stand behind his quote and not drop 20% when questioned about it's specifics.
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admin
Posted on Monday, July 14, 2003 - 11:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

What are the valley lengths? The valleys must be removed and replaced. Here in western PA valley replacement with 20 ounce copper or stainless costs between about $40 and $100 per running foot, depending.
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Richard C. Anderson
Posted on Thursday, January 15, 2004 - 04:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Cost of a "Newbuild" slate roof

A friend of mine is planning to build a new retirement home on a site in the Maryland/D.C. area. Assuming a relatively traditional design, how much more would a correctly detailed and carefully installed new slate roof cost compared to a good-quality asphault shingle roof? What effect might such a roof have on re-sale value, property tax, fire insurance, etc?

Richard Anderson (Archaeologist - in Greece)
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JP Hancock
Posted on Thursday, January 15, 2004 - 09:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I see from reading your responses that a plywood deck is not optimal for a slate roof, but what if that is what you have as the starting point after removing an asphalt roof. The 3/4" plywood is in good condition. Should I remove the bottom ~2 feet along the gutter line and replace it with boards to avoid delamination? Replacing the complete roof deck does not seem like a reasonable option. Comments/thoughts?
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slateworks
Posted on Thursday, January 15, 2004 - 11:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Install 1" x 4" rough cut furring or kiln dried lumber directly over plywood,nail thru 1x and plywood into rafter(I think this is what the host of this site recommends), your size of slate(nail holes & length) will determine your spacing of 1 x..Install 30# felt over 1x..Also add some type of ventilation-Power vent-Gravity vents-Soffit vents ect.,Or we have used the nail over ridge vents(low profile) used for shingles, we cover them with metal(last job we used Lead coated copper)use long copper nails or coated splitless siding nails(drill holes thru metal to prevent denting and do not overdrive nail,seal nail head with good quality caulking,optional)if you do not use 1x nail metal cap to rafters(you have to mark where the rafters are before you install the nail over ridge vent on the slate so you know where to place your nails),this installation still allows a Ladder hook to be used for repairing and maintaining slate roof..Or you could install Ice and water shield material on your first 3' of plywood,then install 30# felt over the I&WS-make sure your gutter has a roof apron or install a metal drip edge to cover the exposed edge of the plywood,to me this is the area that will cause the most problems with delamination of plywood and rotting of sheating,left exposed this area acts like a wick,Moisture and poor ventilation are the main causes of delamination wether you have shingles or slate if the roof is maintained and kept watertight you really should not have any problem with delamination,especially with 3/4" plywood..If you install the 1x then you do not have to be concerned with the plywood issue.But no matter what you decide there will be one less shingle roof and 1 more slate roof.Have a good day.
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admin
Posted on Friday, January 16, 2004 - 02:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Better to install slate over plywood than to not install slate at all. If you want the longest lasting slate roof, then use a board deck, not a plywood deck.
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Bunter
Posted on Thursday, December 09, 2004 - 05:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Hi im from the north of Scotland and spend 80% of my time on slate roofs and bought your book out of curiosity, which by the way I thought was realy good.
The one thing that astounds me is the problems you have over there with dodgy roofers, we have our share butnot to the same extent as you do.
Anyway thanks for a good read!!
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Anonymous
Posted on Sunday, January 30, 2005 - 09:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

So pleased to have discovered this message board!
Great information about staggered butt slate roofs.
My 1929 English Cottage home in the Francis Quarles Story historic neighborhood burned Dec 2004 and I will be having the roof replaced. It once had a staggered butt slate roof (of Arizona quarried slate) but the last owners removed it and weren't able to replace it (due to cost and perhaps inability to find anyone to install it here in Phoenix, Arizona!)
I'm investigating the possibility of re-installing the historically correct "tinted" (what might the 1932 newspaper reporter have meant by this term I wonder?) staggered butt slate roof. I see no qualified installers listed in the directory. Does this mean that I'm unlikely to find a qualified installer here?
I really don't want to go with the standard (every slate the exact same size/shape/positioning) installation.
Thanks for any thoughts.
hlgoebel@yahoo.com
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Anonymous
Posted on Monday, September 12, 2005 - 03:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

what should I pay to have 12 -15 broken or face nailed sea green slates replaced?
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Anonymous
Posted on Monday, September 12, 2005 - 05:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

$250.00 to $500.00

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