| Author | Message | ||
     Sustainable_hedonist (Sustainable_hedonist) New member Username: Sustainable_hedonist Post Number: 5 Registered: 07-2010 |
I've written a blog post partially about the experience of slating this roof called Adventures in Chinese slate Here is the link. http://turkeysong.wordpress.com/2011/06/28/adventures-in-chinese-slate/ | ||
| Blue_sky_roofing (Blue_sky_roofing) Member Username: Blue_sky_roofing Post Number: 24 Registered: 05-2010 |
Try this method: reverse the cut where the 2 hips meet. Cut the slate 'face-up' so that you will have the sharp edge butting against the other sharp edge from the other hip. Place both hips down together and adjust so that the sharp edges match perfect (the straighter the cut, the better the fit). Then nail one side down and remove the other. Take roof cement and scrap it off on the sharp edge - being careful that it all stays 'underneath' and not fall on top of the slate surface. Apply other slate against installed slate making sure roof cement is imbedded underneath both slates now (some may squeeze up - just take a trial and scrap off. You can take some of the dust from the slate cutter and sprinkle it on any exposed roof cement). Hope you understand my jibberish - lol | ||
| Sustainable_hedonist (Sustainable_hedonist) New member Username: Sustainable_hedonist Post Number: 4 Registered: 07-2010 |
Hmmmm... I have been waffling on the hips between copper and slate. I had the same thought about the slate ridge overpowering the design, especially as it's a very small building. I actually had a pretty crazy "scale" design ridge mocked up which I'm kind of excited about, but I perceive some difficulty in executing it given that everything will have to be aligned perfectly and stay that way for it to look good. Still, I may do a bigger mock up and see what it looks like on the roof. I like the design, just don't know if it will be too "over the top" haha. Here is a picture of the initial mock up which would utilize 8 inch or wider slates at the bottom of the roof tapering to 5 and a half or 6 inch slates at the top. I think the taper would help alleviate the boldness somehow, and also the cut pattern, but its hard to say without seeing it on the roof. I would be using 8 inch wide step flashings with a 2 inch overlap... about 10 inches wide and 16 inch long slates. The blue paper represents copper patina. Also, I have a lot of thinner black slates I might use instead of the greener slates if I go with this. Any input would be appreciated. As far as the nailers go, there is a temporary guide nailed up now and I'm not sure I left enough room even for a copper ridge unless it's a full 12 inches wide with no roll. I have a few "misjudgements" on the first edge that may need caulking or something even with the wider slates, but that won't happen on the other sides. This is assuming I need a min 3 inch lap on any nail holes etc... I have to measure again and see. A copper ridge will use more copper. Less work, more money, and I like the idea of using more slate and less copper just from a resource use perspective. yes, a moat.... and then move the satellite internet and solar panels   | ||
| Blue_sky_roofing (Blue_sky_roofing) Member Username: Blue_sky_roofing Post Number: 23 Registered: 05-2010 |
Nicely done! Symetrically layed out too. Let's see... Dragon scales, and a witch's broom laying on the roof... all you need is a moat. lol I agree with Old School - copper ridge roll would 'set that roof off'. | ||
| Old_school (Old_school) Senior Member Username: Old_school Post Number: 478 Registered: 01-2009 |
That looks nice! I told you it would be fun! I think a slate ridge would over-power the design. You may want to put a copper roll ridge on it. It looks like you have them cut close enough to the ridge to cover nicely. When doing slate ridges like that, I would install a 1 x 3 nailer up the ridge on both sides to give me something to nail the ridge slates onto. Both ways work! good luck! | ||
| Sustainable_hedonist (Sustainable_hedonist) New member Username: Sustainable_hedonist Post Number: 3 Registered: 07-2010 |
Thanks. I wasn't sure if head lap was just headlap pretty much regardless of the slate shape. Here is the first side finished Still deciding how to do the hips.  | ||
| Old_school (Old_school) Senior Member Username: Old_school Post Number: 477 Registered: 01-2009 |
With the patterned slate like that, the side cut is not too important as long as you keep the long point centered on the slate below. Actually, the exposure is about the same over the whole slate. Have fun with it! | ||
| Sustainable_hedonist (Sustainable_hedonist) New member Username: Sustainable_hedonist Post Number: 2 Registered: 07-2010 |
Thanks Old School. I will. I'm going to cut the bottom starters to width anyway as I have no room for adjustment if I'm going to keep my pattern. I just laid those under there to have a visual base. All the starters will actually be full width slates. So I guess you DO think this is enough headlap? Anyone? I'm wanting to get started. I feel pretty good about the rest of the design and that I know what I'm doing enough to pull it off, but still hesitating on the head lap. I could go with a four and one half inch head lap but I'd rather not. Then again, the pitch is awfully low, and it does rain and blow like hell sometimes, but we get only light and usually transient snows. Thanks | ||
| Old_school (Old_school) Senior Member Username: Old_school Post Number: 474 Registered: 01-2009 |
Watch the sidelaps when you go over the straight tiles | ||
| Sustainable_hedonist (Sustainable_hedonist) New member Username: Sustainable_hedonist Post Number: 1 Registered: 07-2010 |
I'm working on a 220 sq. ft. full hip roof that is 4 in 12. I had decided to go 4" on the headlap because of the low pitch. I'm trying to imitate a stylized lizard scale pattern. I'm very happy with the aesthetics, but am wondering about the headlap. The more drastically cut slates in the picture are actually the top courses. Pictured are the two extremes and every two courses, the profile will change slightly between the two to give a morphing effect as you go up the roof. Given that the weak point is the intersection of the two slates directly beneath and the top of the slate below that, I still have at lest 3 1/2 inches between the bottom of the top slate and that intersection if measured in a direct line... put another way, if I use a compass to draw an arc with that weak intersection as the pivot point I still have a 3 1/2 inch arc of coverage at least. Also keep in mind that the more drastically cut slates are at the top of the roof where there is presumably less water if that matters... Is that adequate? I'd appreciate any other caveats or red flags as this is my first slate roof. I'd rather not do more headlap for aesthetic, labor and conservation of slate, but I can if I need to.  |
