| Author | Message | ||
     ron kugel |
Just waiting for the paint to dry on them..Safe to travel North? Deer season over?(ha). I will call in the AM..I need some 22 x 14 sea green. | ||
| Joe Jenkins |
You only need to remove the nails that would actually be nailed through the step flashing (if any), not try to remove the siding itself. Ron makes a good point - use the wonderbar to pry the bottom edge of the siding out a bit while you're trying to get the step flashing out. When you do this, you'll see whether there are any nails through the bottom of the siding (and therefore also through the step flashing). Ron - where are those purple slates you were going to bring me? ;-) | ||
| ron kugel |
Hi. You do have a little more space between the bottom edge of siding and roof deck than I thought,the picture where you pulled the nails shows a better view,that is a problem(chipped wood & paint)when you try to pull out the nails,I really try to avoid it if possible, after reading over your other message that states you have 2 layers of siding is also a pain even if you get the steps out-trying to put them back in between the 2 layers of siding will be a tough one...you might want to try leaving the old steps in place to use them as a guide for your new steps,since they are already between the 2 layers of siding,I would try to slip a new step into place and if it works ,nail your existing steps tight to the roof deck and proceed with normal step flashing installation?? Also putting a wonder bar up under the siding can give you a little extra space to work in the new steps or help in removing the old ones...And the wonder bar can help in pushing the nail heads out away from the siding a little bit so you can get a clean bite on them & don't end up with a bunch of chipped siding,also you do not need to remove the siding ,just remove nails that may be nailed into the step flashing...Have also used a nail set to drive the nail all the way thru the siding..Again,Good Luck. | ||
| Jane Weeks |
Joe and Ron, Thanks for input. I pulled 5 long nails out of one very small piece of siding (it made a mess of my paint job). Thought it would be a good place to try. A picture of mess is included. I had no luck getting the siding off. Either I missed a nail or it just doesn't want to come off even with a pry bar. Although I was able to get one piece of flashing out from under the siding and think I can get the rest out. It doesn't seem to be nailed, thank goodness. There is about an inch between the roof and the bottom of the siding. I should probably do what you both recomended and cut the bottom of siding off another inch and see if I can slip the flashing under it. I hope I only have to cut about an inch off. Scary! Gutters: So far they seem to be in very good condition and I would hate to take them out and open and can of worms! Really scary! Jane  | ||
| ron kugel |
I think you have to cut off the bottom of siding an 1" or 2 --that is if you want to add new steps that go under the siding - you need the space to slip the steps up under the siding the way it is now you do not have enough spacing-unless there is an area where you can get behind the siding and slide them all into place before you start slating- Pulling out the old steps:at times I will use vice grips ,clamp down on a step and use a hammer to beat against the step or vice grip, also do pull nails if possible -- You could try a small area first,then if it does not work ,nail down or cut off your existing steps and install your new steps against or overtop of the siding and cut the reglet with a counter flashing as mentioned(since you have 3/4" siding)---Have also cut off wood siding so that a 1x4 could be installed with a z strip flashing(covers the top of 1x4 and goes under the old siding)the 1x4 with z strip would be installed after removing your old steps and installing new ones ....Good luck | ||
| Jane Weeks |
Joe, This seems to be a well built house! The siding is 1.5 inches thick. It is 2 pieces of 3/4 tounge and groove, one over the other, with the flashing inbetween them. The only nails that I see are through both pieces of siding and they go through to the studs on the inside of the house. I will try again, with a helper, to get it out and report back tomorrow. Thanks, Jane | ||
| Joe Jenkins |
Regarding the step flashing, that is a typical pain in the a** situation. If the old step flashing is nailed to the roof and not to the side wall, you can usually work it out from under the siding, unless the siding is nailed through it If it is, use a cats paw to get the siding nails out so the step flashing can be removed. Getting the new flashing in is another chore. Rather than cut a reglet, what about cutting an inch or two off the bottom of the siding? That should expose the step flashing enough to get it out and leave you plenty of room to install the new flashing. However, if cutting the bottom off the siding leaves it unnailed along the roof, then that's not what you want to do. In which case, your idea may work. Just leave old stuff in there and work over it, by installing a counter flashing in a reglet. Since the wood is probably only 3/4" thick, it would have to be a shallow reglet. Might be better to try trimming the bottom off the siding. We have had good luck pulling old step flashing out and replacing it. It's not easy, and it's impossible if the siding is nailed through the flashing (unless you pull out the nails or trim the siding off). I can't ever remember a time where we left the old flashing in and worked over it. It's usually a good rule of thumb to remove any old flashings before installing new ones. | ||
| Joe Jenkins |
Regarding the gutter, my first question is why aren't you replacing the metal now while it's exposed? In a situation like that, we'd probably hold the first course of slate up to expose as much of the metal as possible, rather than cover the metal and nail through it. | ||
| Jane Weeks |
Joe, Here are pictures of the gutter which goes up the roof 16.5 inches. I bought 14 X 20 un-punched starter slates. All the field slate will be one size, 12 X 18 except the first row which will be 12 X 20. I was going to start with two 14 X 20 in the starter row then every other slate will be cut down to 14 X 16 to get a 4 inch side lap between starter row and first row. What do you think? Flashing; I was going to leave the old flashing in place. Then put the slate over top of it and put new flashing up the side with each slate, cut a riglet and counter flash? If that didn't work, I could just cut the flashing off. That is, unless there is a better way? Jane      | ||
| Joe Jenkins |
What's the slope of the roof? Do you have photos? Without photos or more information I would speculate that: your starter course should be 12" high (not 18") when using a 4" headlap on an 18" slate. If it's a uniform width slate roof then all the field slates should be the same width. If the metal is getting excessively nailed into then there's probably too much metal. The step flashing should be able to be removed. Maybe you need to cut your clapboard to expose the flashing. | ||
| Jane Weeks |
Joe, Having great success with your book. It's excellent! We are re-slating our entire 1930 house, 2 sheds and 3 car garage. The house has built in gutters. The gutter liners go up the roof 16 1/2 ". I don't know what type of metal it is but it's not pure copper or pure lead. We soldered (not easy) the many nail holes in it from old repairs. 1. Should we use copper nails in the gutters when applying slate to it? 2. We are using 12" X 18" slate for the house. Should we use 18" X 18" on the starter row with 12" X 20" for the first row then 12" X 18" for the second row to avoid putting any more holes in the gutter metal then necessary? This way we would nail all slates except the starter row above the gutter metal. If not, what combination of sizes should we use for the first few rows till we get past the metal to avoid putting hundreds of holes in the gutters? 3. Flashing; I've done beautiful flashing of 3 chimneys and a copula thus far, thanks to your book. But, on one side of the house we have step flashing that we can't get out! We can't even get the clapboard siding loose. Should we cut off the 19 pieces of flashing that are in pretty good shape? We need 20 pieces to redo that side correctly according to your book and, would somehow need to add one if we don't cut the old off. Or should we just cut it off and do the step flashing with counter flashing like we did with the copula? We are doing the first 3 feet of slate with 7" showing for ice damming, then 7 1/2" on the rest of the roof. Your book is fabulous! I have read it several times and am saving at least $50,000 doing the job myself! Thank you, thank you, thank you! Jane Weeks |
