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Bud (Bud)
Senior Member
Username: Bud

Post Number: 62
Registered: 02-2010
Posted on Friday, May 04, 2012 - 06:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Old School I was hoping you would chime in, thought just maybe you had been there and done that. We do have some tube locks on the shelf if need be.

Thanks.

Looking forward to tearing it up and seeing what's in there.
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Old_school (Old_school)
Senior Member
Username: Old_school

Post Number: 814
Registered: 01-2009
Posted on Friday, May 04, 2012 - 06:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Bud, Nailable concrete looks a lot like Tectum but it will accept nails. If the OSB is bad but the tectum is good, you could screw down the OSB to the tectum or use nails driven at opposing angles. going straight in with a smooth shank nail does nothing but when it is screwed, the threads will grab hold and it stays. We used to use "Tubelock" nails which literally had a tube you drove in and then it had a nail that we driven into the tube. the "nail" would exit the lower side of the tube and make like a fishhook. Those would hold for sure. Look up "Tubelock" and see what you find.
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Bud (Bud)
Senior Member
Username: Bud

Post Number: 61
Registered: 02-2010
Posted on Friday, May 04, 2012 - 05:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

John that is helpful, too bad your recommendation as a pro is trumped by someone who has a degree rather than experience. But then again they do create a lot of work for us.

I am fearful that the deck wont have any wood to attach to or that it will be something 'funky'. I cannot imagine what would have held the slate in place all these years but something did.

I will re-post as the job moves along and maybe include photos if there is anything that might be helpful or ridiculous that we can find amusing.

The job will involve approximately 1000+ feet at about 4 feet up the rake plus re-flashing closed valleys. Not a bad job to kick the season off with...it will be a nice change of pace from the last year on a massive TPO job (10 acres under roof) with a smattering of metal standing seam (800 lineal feet at the eave).
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John_chan (John_chan)
Senior Member
Username: John_chan

Post Number: 104
Registered: 08-2006
Posted on Friday, May 04, 2012 - 05:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

We just finished a very large repair on a Tectum deck in Tennessee. When Tectum is used on sloped surfaces, it should be Tectum E or Tectum III. Both have a 7/16" OSB glued to the EPS or XPS insulation which glued to the Tectum. The "wood" should hold your copper nails (at least as well as OSB is going to hold it). You shouldn't find Tectum I (no wood deck) on any pitched roofs. My understanding is that Tectum I is for flat roofs.

If the nails aren't gripping, it's because the OSB got wet and needs to be replaced. You'll have to replace the entire section with Tectum E or Tectum III. You can't just replace the OSB. It's definitely not a very good deck to have a slate roof on. Our recommendation was to tear the whole thing off and replace it all, but the client opted to follow their architects recommendation over ours.

I hope that's helpful.
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Bud (Bud)
Senior Member
Username: Bud

Post Number: 60
Registered: 02-2010
Posted on Friday, May 04, 2012 - 12:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Will be starting a trough gutter repair next week, just learned that the deck is techtum (or similar). The slate has been nailed onto this deck for some time and will be necessary to remove to access trough gutter for replacement.

Questions are how should I go about reinstalling the slate? and what is the recommended fastener to use?

The slate is installed with a graduated, random width pattern and I suspect that trying to install the slates too close to the original fastening locations will result in little to no grip strength.

Thanks, Bud

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