| Author | Message | ||
     Reed (Reed) New member Username: Reed Post Number: 4 Registered: 06-2020 |
Looks like I made a mistake - which I think I've fixed. The forum is at https://discourse.slateforum.com, which should now also be linked from just https://slateforum.com. (Message edited by reed on July 13, 2020) | ||
| Old_school (Old_school) Senior Member Username: Old_school Post Number: 1244 Registered: 01-2009 |
Reed, Thanks! I clicked on that new site and it also bounced back to me. My computer could not find it. Is there something that I have to do to make it come up? I am better at the slate and copper than I am with the computer. I do however have answers to the first that I don't have for the second. My email is john.r.crookston@charter.net , if it is easier to communicate directly. | ||
| Reed (Reed) New member Username: Reed Post Number: 3 Registered: 06-2020 |
Hi John - I tried emailing you directly, but your MSN.com email bounced back. Thank you for taking the time to reply to my question! I appreciate the guidance, and am looking forward to tackling the project of getting my gutters working. Fingers crossed that there isn't much rot / structural damage. I'm more well-versed in bits & bytes than I am in slate & copper... As a learning experience & afternoon project, I put together a new online discussion forum. https://slateforum.com I learned a bunch from reading Joe Jenkins' book and from reading through the forum... if old software is the reason the forum traffic has died down, perhaps this can help to revive the discussion! | ||
| Old_school (Old_school) Senior Member Username: Old_school Post Number: 1243 Registered: 01-2009 |
Reed, Welcome,Evidently this forum is based on old technology that hasn't been supported for a long time. I use Thunderbird for a platform so I can get on it, but a lot of the guys can't. If the existing gutters are below the glide plane of the roof, you could probably get away with a simple lining of them with metal. Copper would be nice, as it is easier to work with, but if the longest piece is only 18 feet long, it is possible to get them bent in one piece so you would not have joints. Since it is below the eave, you won't have any leakage inside the envelope of the house. The best way to do it would be to just install the metal liners and then put the outlets where the water ponds. That would guarantee that you would not have any standing water and you would not have to worry about any excess framing. You can do that yourself too. Just tuck the metal to the bottom of the slates instead of disturbing them, and make a simple gutter with whatever metal you want to use. good luck. | ||
| Reed (Reed) New member Username: Reed Post Number: 1 Registered: 06-2020 |
This forum is a treasure trove of advice - so glad that I found it! And I'm looking forward to reading The Slate Roof Bible. My 1880s slate roof is, I think, in pretty good condition. No leaks, no missing slates, nice and steep (10:12 or thereabouts). The original wooden built-in gutters [1], however, aren't functioning. The fascia and soffits have some rotted out areas, etc. These are built in ogee crown molding (cyma recta), not Yankee or box gutters. There's a nice cornice detail where the rake molding meets the built-in gutter. I'd like to keep that same molding profile. A local roof / masonry / gutter contractor recommended making a custom profile copper gutter, but then started describing how he'd take up several courses of slate in order to put down an ice shield to avoid ice dams. I'm not sure if that's necessary, given the steep roof that sheds snow into our side yards. Assuming the gutters, fascia, rafters, etc. are all in good structural condition (a big assumption), what options should I consider to get working gutters with a moderate level of investment? Or even DIY. The longest single run is about 18'. Most of the gutters are straight; there are only two 90º corners. Firmly reattach the gutters & see if linseed oil does the trick? Line with EPDM? Line with copper? The gutters are below the line of the roof, and presumably the slate acts as a sufficient drip edge, so perhaps flashing under the slate wouldn't be necessary? I'd like to keep the architectural detailing. I'd also like to ensure a working water management system that'll last the next 100 years. I'm happy to do work myself, and also happy to pay for value. Thank you for any advice that keeps me from doing something shortsighted! -Reed [1] Like on page 2 here: http://www.jpmoriarty.com/wood_molding_catalog/002_gutter/wood-gutters-t&h.pdf |
