| Author | Message | ||
     83b (83b) Junior Member Username: 83b Post Number: 16 Registered: 01-2013 |
UPDATE: In fairness to Buckingham Slate Company, I owe you all an update regarding the quality of my slate. They have demonstrated excellent customer service and have generously compensated me for any material I was unsatisfied with. The additional 12sq that I've received seem to be of exceptional quality.  | ||
| 83b (83b) Junior Member Username: 83b Post Number: 15 Registered: 01-2013 |
John, yes I was very disappointed in the consultant who did this and should have fired him much sooner. Shame on me, because I've read volumes on this subject yet still got pulled down the wrong path. That top course of slate is nailed differently than the rest - they fall under the ridge cap. Oh, and while i'm fussing about stuff, I gotta say that new batch of Buckingham slate is nice. BUT, there are a whole lot of pieces punched on the wrong end. And there's a whole lot of pieces curled up like potato chips. Maybe all this is the norm for you professionals out there. I'm just a DIY homeowner getting proficient at nailing rocks to the top of his house. | ||
| John_chan (John_chan) Senior Member Username: John_chan Post Number: 173 Registered: 08-2006 |
Your slate work looks nice except for the top row; the nails are pretty close to the center of the slate. The copper work is a mess as Benjamin said. Folding copper can be very nice, but if you don't know how to do it, it's best to solder and put in expansion joints. You might want to hire Benjamin to come and fix it for you. | ||
| Williamcouch (Williamcouch) New member Username: Williamcouch Post Number: 1 Registered: 06-2016 |
Thank you for sharing the information about roof. | ||
| Old_school (Old_school) Senior Member Username: Old_school Post Number: 1159 Registered: 01-2009 |
What fun! One thing that I might snuggest that would make your work easier, would be toke some shingle pallets, knock off about half of the slats to make them lighter to handle and lay them on the roof between the roof jacks you have on the roof. They spread out the weight, make it easier to walk between the planks (like a small ladder) you can stack the slates on them and they won't slide. It protects the slates you have already installed too. Have fun! | ||
| 83b (83b) Junior Member Username: 83b Post Number: 13 Registered: 01-2013 |
Yes. The following images are what I've completed myself, to keep the project moving. Ignore the slight error at the end of that valley. Rookie mistake. The cap for the pipe flashing is soldered on the inside - between the inner and outer walls.   | ||
| Old_school (Old_school) Senior Member Username: Old_school Post Number: 1158 Registered: 01-2009 |
So you are installing the slate then? | ||
| 83b (83b) Junior Member Username: 83b Post Number: 12 Registered: 01-2013 |
Old School, yes sorry, my term "roofer" refers to the copper man. I've proceeded with the slate work since this is fairly straightforward, minus the first two courses. Not ideal, but I had to keep this moving. | ||
| Old_school (Old_school) Senior Member Username: Old_school Post Number: 1157 Registered: 01-2009 |
Is the roofer also the copper man? | ||
| 83b (83b) Junior Member Username: 83b Post Number: 11 Registered: 01-2013 |
Ben, This doesn't really follow the conventional methods as you'd find on copper.org for example. I'll try to answer your questions: a. How long is the seam? These run the whole length of gutter. The house is 50ft, two pans per side. b. What kind of clips are inside of it? ie. expansion clips or fixed clips. They're the normal type of cleats, I can't remember how many.. c. If the down spouts became clogged would the overflowing water enter the structure through the dog eared corner of the end cap/miter/x joint? I don't know. I never saw a complete example. The idea was to form up an end wall on each, then seam together.... or seam a separate cap between them. d. If there are expansion clips inside of the long standing seam is there a designated fixed area/zone to break the long expanding column of gutter into two shorter expanding columns? I wanna say those fixed cleats were like 5ft apart. The plan was to offset the expansion joint (to get around the dormers). So you'd have one pan that's ~30ft and another that's ~20ft. In regard to the gutter in general. a. What thickness and temper of material was used for this gutter? It's 16oz run off a coil. 1/8th hard? Can't remember. The old copper is pretty soft. b. Is the gutter double seamed to the window pans and chimney flashing? Yes c. What is the gutter width across the bottom of the trough at its widest point? I think it's about 5in on the flat bottom. This grows a bit at the very high spots at the corner of the house. d. What is the angle between the bottom of the trough and the inclined wall of the gutter? Back wall turns up 90 degrees. I could only estimate the other wall to be around 30 degrees? e. I see that there are seams that segment the front shelf of the gutter. do these seams have clips in them? No cleats in those. They just joint sections of the front shelf. f. Is there some kind of sealant inside of the gutter outlet? No sealant. The goal was to be totally solderless. | ||
| Benjamin (Benjamin) Advanced Member Username: Benjamin Post Number: 46 Registered: 01-2013  |
I have a few questions. 1)In regard to the standing seam connection that joins the old copper to the new copper on the front shelf of the gutter. a. How long is the seam? b. What kind of clips are inside of it? ie. expansion clips or fixed clips. c. If the down spouts became clogged would the overflowing water enter the structure through the dog eared corner of the end cap/miter/x joint? d. If there are expansion clips inside of the long standing seam is there a designated fixed area/zone to break the long expanding column of gutter into two shorter expanding columns? In regard to the gutter in general. a. What thickness and temper of material was used for this gutter? b. Is the gutter double seamed to the window pans and chimney flashing? c. What is the gutter width across the bottom of the trough at its widest point? d. What is the angle between the bottom of the trough and the inclined wall of the gutter? e. I see that there are seams that segment the front shelf of the gutter. do these seams have clips in them? f. Is there some kind of sealant inside of the gutter outlet? | ||
| Benjamin (Benjamin) Advanced Member Username: Benjamin Post Number: 45 Registered: 01-2013 |
Wow, that is a mess. | ||
| 83b (83b) New member Username: 83b Post Number: 10 Registered: 01-2013 |
I'd like to get some professional evaluation of work that was done to my built-in gutter. The videos below are a walk-through showing what was done prior to my roofer being fired. Despite doing my homework on the subject, I gave this consultant a lot of creative freedom with the project. Aesthetically, I'm very fond of the chimney and gutter pans. Other things are a complete disaster. Any thoughts appreciated. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6EMSBsLCLw6NnhGajNKZ0xETzQ/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6EMSBsLCLw6UW42eG53blhaU1E/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6EMSBsLCLw6SWJhUXF1X3dzWFE/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6EMSBsLCLw6RjhIZ2V4Uk91V2M/view?usp=sharing -Jason |
