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Milo (Milo)
Advanced Member
Username: Milo

Post Number: 47
Registered: 05-2009
Posted on Sunday, October 14, 2018 - 08:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Great. That’s one thing cool about this work, you can practice the origami in paper rather than mangling some copper. Post some pics of the final product.

MILO
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Sbwooden (Sbwooden)
New member
Username: Sbwooden

Post Number: 2
Registered: 10-2018
Posted on Friday, October 12, 2018 - 06:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Thank you-
Yes, I have decided on using a pinched upstand simlar to the one in the link you shared. I had been trying to sweep the transition and thats where I was going wrong- now having done a few practice pinched seams on a mockup I'm thinking its the way to go. My plan is to carry the pans up the main pitch, exposed for 8" before flattening the seams, then run up under the slates with enough headlap. Thanks again
Steven
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Milo (Milo)
Advanced Member
Username: Milo

Post Number: 46
Registered: 05-2009
Posted on Tuesday, October 09, 2018 - 10:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Could you transition your porch roof pans 6-8” up the 12-12’ pitched roof with pinched upstands? These could be run up the roof 6-8” or whatever the headlap of the starter slate allows and the standing seams folded over before overlapping with the first course of slate. This would allow a one piece, water tight transition and although some kind of cant would be needed the folded over seams could contribute to this.

A detail of this type of fold is found here: http://copperalliance.org.uk/uploads/2018/03/pub-156-fig-8.pdf

I have this British publication and it presents several types of examples using this type of standing seam work. More info can be found at tradroofing.com , and Stortz tools website carries a German book/video of this type of work. Also, Orion Jenkins and others have videos found on this forum ( under “videos”) concerning standing seam transitions.
I am far, far from being a expert on any of this as I have just recently began studying and applying these standing seam techniques, so hopefully one of the PROS come by and offer more advice concerning your question.

MILO

(Message edited by Milo on October 09, 2018)
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Sbwooden (Sbwooden)
New member
Username: Sbwooden

Post Number: 1
Registered: 10-2018
Posted on Thursday, October 04, 2018 - 06:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

New here, from central Virginia- traditional wood and slate roof experience but less so with standing seam copper- mainly flashings. valleys chimneys etc in the past.
I'm looking for suggestions on how to best approach a detail in an upcoming project- a slated, shed-style porch roof with a low pitch running into the main roof (12/12, slated). Porch has no hips, measures 11'x30', leaks like a sieve and is easily accessed by two dormer windows on main roof meaning it gets foot traffic often enough... The porch slate is getting stripped and replaced with standing seam copper- I am looking for insight on how to best approach the transition. My first thought was to fold/turn the pans up at the transition, carry up a little ways, then flatten the seams and start the slate above the transition point. I am now rethinking the practicality of folding and hammering the transition point on all 20 of the 11'+ long pans. Should I instead end my pans at the transition, flatten the seams, then flash between the two pitches with an apron and carry on slating? I don't like the idea of having a lapped apron joint on the low pitch of the porch roof with possibility of wind driven rain. My last thought was to run my long pans a bit short of the transition with shorter pans joined on which would run up into the transition- do my folding and forming on these short pans which may also allow me to add some bulk at the transition point by customizing the short pans to create a bit of a radius at the transition. I've tried doing a pitch transition on standard pans off the roll-former and the inevitable radius that forms seems to steal a bit of meat from the double lock... and being that this will be right at the base of a big 12/12 roof, I don't want to compromise the seams there.
Am I overthinking it? Just fold up the transition with the full length pans? I haven't been able to find advice talking with locals, once I get into the details I lose 'em.
Thanks in advance for any help.
- Steven

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